Craftman Battery Drain

You need to do a battery draw test. disconnect one of the battery cables now take a test light and connect one end to the disconnected battery cable and the other to the empty battery post. Use a test light not a volt meter. If the test light lights it will mean you have a draw on your battery. Now you need to start looking what is causing this battery draw, switches, wiring, lights, stator, when the light go's out you have found your problem.
 
The thing hat usually draws down the battery is the alternator .
Find the plug that comes out of engine & dissconnect it between uses.
See what happens.
If your battery drain stops then the diode needs replacing
 
bertsmobile1 said:
The thing hat usually draws down the battery is the alternator .
Find the plug that comes out of engine & dissconnect it between uses.
See what happens.
If your battery drain stops then the diode needs replacing
Click to expand...

Test the diode, very testable, don't just start changing parts. A short in the alternator/stator will also draw your battery down. Sorry I like trouble shooting. It saves time and money.
 
I did the battery draw test and the light didn't come on, but I'm not sure if it would be drawing enough power to turn the light on. It is probably a very low draw.

I meant the starter solenoid, yes.

The diagram confirmed what I thought. The only wires getting power with the key off would be the positive battery to the solenoid, and the red wire going to the ignition switch, right?

If any other wires have power, that should be the problem. The ignition switch is fine because with the key off only the red line going in has power.

I'm thinking of just replacing the positive battery wire and see if that will solve the problem. Next would be the solenoid thinking that is drawing power in some way.

Thank you for you help. I'll see what happens this week.
 
pickenspolitics said:
I did the battery draw test and the light didn't come on, but I'm not sure if it would be drawing enough power to turn the light on. It is probably a very low draw.

I meant the starter solenoid, yes.

The diagram confirmed what I thought. The only wires getting power with the key off would be the positive battery to the solenoid, and the red wire going to the ignition switch, right?

If any other wires have power, that should be the problem. The ignition switch is fine because with the key off only the red line going in has power.

I'm thinking of just replacing the positive battery wire and see if that will solve the problem. Next would be the solenoid thinking that is drawing power in some way.

Thank you for you help. I'll see what happens this week.
Click to expand...

If the light doesn't light you have a draw in the battery its self. Something has to be drawing amperage to run the battery down. You might need to test how much amperage is coming from the battery. I have found a test light is all I needed for this draw test but it looks like you will need a amp meter which my multi function meter has. The starter solenoid is just a heavy duty switch it either on or off. Yes it could have a short in it. Very hard to trouble shoot without hands on so all I can do is guess. So I would say just start install parts that aren't needed till you find the problem and hope for the best or get some help.
 
As noted the real value of a DVM in this problem is that is gives amount of current being drained. A light will not light if insufficient current is flowing, but a DVM is very sensitive and will show "thousandths" of an amp flowing which can drain a battery over time. Also please note another built in feature of most DVMs is a continuity (diode) test which many times includes a "beep" indicating yes , this thing passes current. For newbies a good diode is made to pass current in only one direction so the DVM can check this. DVMs do not need to cost e.g., $100. They are half that or less.
 
motoman said:
As noted the real value of a DVM in this problem is that is gives amount of current being drained. A light will not light if insufficient current is flowing, but a DVM is very sensitive and will show "thousandths" of an amp flowing which can drain a battery over time. Also please note another built in feature of most DVMs is a continuity (diode) test which many times includes a "beep" indicating yes , this thing passes current. For newbies a good diode is made to pass current in only one direction so the DVM can check this. DVMs do not need to cost e.g., $100. They are half that or less.
Click to expand...

Yes over time, is this what he is looking for?? A good battery we are talking months. This is the reason its hard to trouble shoot electric over a form we are just making a lot of guesses. If he doesn't want to spend a lot of money for a DMV he can buy a analog multi volt meter from HF for around 10 dollars.
 
Here's your Owners Guide , the Electric Diagram is at the very end ........ might help in tracing your wiring, I had a similar problem , Positive Battery cable was worn through at a spot where it passed through a hole in my frame , hard to find on a regular machine but I found mine when I was disassembling for entire rebuild .... DECK was removed ! Good Luck, and patience will prevail .
Electrical troubleshooting is a step by step process , DON'T replace parts by guess...... KNOW what you're replacing is N.F.G. . ............ Boobala ....:smile

View attachment L0070108.pdf
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top