Craftman 5000 Watt Generator hard Starting when Hot

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70 PSI is barely enough to support combustion, but it has a compression relief so that should really not be an issue.

New coil? As in Amazon? I avoid Amazon due to the many problems I've had over the years.
 

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One thing that comes to mind is fuel percolation in the fuel bowl after shutdown. All that post-shutdown engine heat directly effects the carburetor.

Years ago, we had to look around at similar models to find an insulator/ heat shield that mounted with the muffler, but extended down to protect the carburetor from heat absorption,

This heat shield greatly reduced the percolation problems and improved the hard start when hot problems.

I looked on Ebay and they show a couple of different used ones for the Tecumseh HM100. Maybe one will be a good fit for your engine.

Hope this info helps you,
 

jono252525

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One thing that comes to mind is fuel percolation in the fuel bowl after shutdown. All that post-shutdown engine heat directly effects the carburetor.

Years ago, we had to look around at similar models to find an insulator/ heat shield that mounted with the muffler, but extended down to protect the carburetor from heat absorption,

This heat shield greatly reduced the percolation problems and improved the hard start when hot problems.

I looked on Ebay and they show a couple of different used ones for the Tecumseh HM100. Maybe one will be a good fit for your engine.

Hope this info helps you,
I will check that,
Thank youi
 

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Here is one example, not sure if it is correct:


I guess I should ask if all other tin heat shields are in place because many people often make the mistake of removing them thinking that it improves cooling. It does just the opposite. The heat shield tins are in place to ensure the cooling air from the flywheel fins is forced in the proper directions. That is vital for any air-cooled engine.
 
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jono252525

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Here is one example, not sure if it is correct:


I guess I should ask if all other tin heat shields are in place because many people often make the mistake of removing them thinking that it improves cooling. It does just the opposite. The heat shield tins are in place to ensure the cooling air from the flywheel fins is forced in the proper directions. That is vital for any air-cooled engine.
Thank you for the information, The problem for me is the price in CA for me $7.00 US= $10.00 and the shipping is $22.00 CA so, I will use a metal plate and make my self one and I will copy on the add you send me.
Thank you again.
 

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Sounds like a sensible plan. Hope it works for you.

As a temporary idea to test the theory use a wad of fiberglass house insulation and wrap it in heavy tin foil or tin foil tape, then shoved in between the side of the block and the carburetor, especially at the carb bowl area.
 

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I will try new oil 10W30
10w-30 will shear down awful fast in an air cooled engine. Briggs, Kawisaki, Kohler and so on state multi-grade oils will be consumed more compared to a straight 30W. Meaning you will need to check it at every use. I do that anyway with all oils.

Use the oil your engine manual says to.
 

sgkent

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for giggles. Next time you are in this place, pull the spark plugs, blow compressed air into each cylinder, and blow the plugs off too. Then put them back and see if it starts. If it does then it will prove that the engine is flooded. Another possibility is that the choke system is closing and that makes it too rich. Another issue is spark. Some inferior brands have been reported to cause issues like this - torch or ngk counterfeits. Put in some genuine plugs you got at your local auto parts store and see if it helps. I will say that when I read someone wants to make things themselves instead of spending $20 to solve a problem, I typically run from that person because someone unwilling to buy quality parts ends up with unsolvable problems.
 
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