crack in crankcase

This is where consumers don't get it. It is the cost divide by number of years used. Then you why putting in over the cost of a replacement is not advisable. I usually recommend replacing the engine whenever this is the case.

And most warranties are not even worth paper or the electrons they are written on. They all are written to protect the manufacture, not the consumer.
 
Something for consumers to keep in mind that present a unit to their local dealer and claim a warranty failure. Actual warranty payable manufacturer defects that your dealer gets paid for is 1-2 units out of every 200 units that the consumer claims should be a warranty item.
 
I repaired a gear box on a Brunswick A2 machine at the bowling alley with epoxy steel.
It was the clutch arm support and has been working for the last 60 years. Couldn't weld because it was made out of magnesium.
JB weld is no good, find Epoxy Steel degrease well and apply and it will never break there again.
 
What happened to the engines was the three bolts where the top cover bolted to the block would work loose and cause the block to break. When I got one of those in for service or repair, I would lighten the bolts and never had another problem. Kohler said it was because the torque impact wrench they used would get weak and not torque those three bolts to the proper torque. I have seen those engines break all the way around and the cylinder part of the engine would move back and forth with the piston and still run. saw the counterbalance break and blow the whole back of the engine out and still run. Have seen then warranty the engines 5 years down they road with a short block.
 
hlw49 said:
What happened to the engines was the three bolts where the top cover bolted to the block would work loose and cause the block to break. When I got one of those in for service or repair, I would lighten the bolts and never had another problem. Kohler said it was because the torque impact wrench they used would get weak and not torque those three bolts to the proper torque. I have seen those engines break all the way around and the cylinder part of the engine would move back and forth with the piston and still run. saw the counterbalance break and blow the whole back of the engine out and still run. Have seen then warranty the engines 5 years down they road with a short block.
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If possible, I always try to check top sump bolts on these Kohler Courage engines. Not torqued correctly from factory and no Loctite is normally the issue.

I have used JB Weld successfully a couple of times on minor engine block cracks. The crankcase is not under a lot of pressure like the cylinder. You are just trying to keep oil from leaking out.
 
StarTech said:
This is where consumers don't get it. It is the cost divide by number of years used. Then you why putting in over the cost of a replacement is not advisable. I usually recommend replacing the engine whenever this is the case.

And most warranties are not even worth paper or the electrons they are written on. They all are written to protect the manufacture, not the consumer.
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Not to mention the older machines are built better than these new ones. Repowering can be done in a few hours. Not changing a cruise ship engine out.
 
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