Carb Cleaning Question

B

Bob372

Member
I've got a stupid question on cleaning a carburetor in an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm considering getting one and was wondering...

I've seen dozens of videos where they just drop it in, but aren't there a lot of air pockets in there? I always think to myself that they should spin it around after they submerge it to get the air out. Does the ultrasonic action negate the need?

Thanks.
 
Simple answer, YES. Should add, google search “HOW DOES AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER WORK “. It should answer your questions.
 
Last edited:
Bob372 said:
I've got a stupid question on cleaning a carburetor in an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm considering getting one and was wondering...

I've seen dozens of videos where they just drop it in, but aren't there a lot of air pockets in there? I always think to myself that they should spin it around after they submerge it to get the air out. Does the ultrasonic action negate the need?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I equate them like a pressure washer car wash compared to a real hand wash on a car or truck. No comparison to a hand wash far as cleanliness goes. Ultras are not simple drop in devices and all is perfectly clean at least for carburetors. Too many tiny internal passages and such with no physical cleaning going on.

Simple garage sell hot plate, pot and Pine Sol is much cheaper and does a better job IMO. Buy what you like.
 
Bob372 said:
I've got a stupid question on cleaning a carburetor in an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm considering getting one and was wondering...

I've seen dozens of videos where they just drop it in, but aren't there a lot of air pockets in there? I always think to myself that they should spin it around after they submerge it to get the air out. Does the ultrasonic action negate the need?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I turn the carb different after about 30 min's run times plus

What I do.

Main reason I got a US is I prefer the OEM carbs instead of the China clones and I clean/re-build some carbs that are NLA or expensive if found.

If a heated type US, after the water gets warm drop the carb in following the US instructions, then after about 30 min's, use low pressure air across the carb (not directly injected into the jets/orfices then back into the US and then back to low air again and then maybe have the carb turned different so as different air pockets are exposed. I no longer use heat on small chainsaw carbs due to possibly ruining OLD internal non serviceable check valves. You can use the pressure type canned carb for injection if desired instead of air nozzle. If doing lots of carbs a good set of hollow ground gunsmith screwdriver kits is really handy. allows you to select correct size blade for removing brass jets/orfice tubes that are buried deep inside some carbs. If you find one stuck just leave it for the first cleaning and try the carb. It may not need to be removed. (see such quite often on old walbro carbs)

If the carb is really cruddy on the outside clean off all the external crud first.
On small carbs I sometimes just throw the whole carb in a warm US BEFORE attempting to take it apart. This pre heating and cleaning sometimes aids in getting a carb apart.

I started out with a small US and then got a larger one that holds about 2 gal so I can do the large 4 barrel auto carbs. Just get the water warm vs hot.
I prefer the manual adjustable heat and run times vs the electronic type US.
(costs about $150- $200 on Amazon

Like the guy mentions a heated bowl will get some going.
Instead of using the high dollar cleaners I just use dash of dawn dish soap and water or de-greasers and water or for really bad internals I use 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water.
Clean the carb with baking soda and water to stop the vinegar acid reacdtion to the aluminum/pot metal after removing the carb.
 
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