C1Q S186 KM55R

[Hammermechanicman]

I went ahead and ordered one of these. The customer service guy says the arms are interchangeable. According to him, it's an easy thing to do. I've never tried it, though. He said the ones with the wire groove, you can't get anymore.

I have had a few aftermarket carb i had to change the throttle or chike shaft to make a carb work.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I think I have the carburetor issue worked out. I got the new US cleaner in today, then reinstalled the kit. Everything seems to be pretty smooth. Except the idle is a tad rough.
The problem is now, just suddenly it'll die. Like you hit the switch. Sometimes, it'll start right back up. Sometimes it's several pulls. BUT, and here's the funny part, it won't just die, at WOT. At idle, it seems like a switch or coil problem. But seems like it wouldn't matter if it was WOT or not, if it was the switch or coil. Right?

I've had about all I can stand with this 2 cycle stuff.

When you have a 2 stroke that has idle issues it is best to do a vacum and pressure test. A leaking crank seal will first show problems at idle. Also, make low needle adjustments and wait 15 to 20 seconds before making another adjustment. Set the low screw a little on the rich side. Usually get better throttle response and less chance of dying. 2 smokes are not that complicated. Just have to hold you mouth just right.

 

[PTmowerMech]

When chasing up service information & parts for a concrete saw, I emailed Walbro as I could not find even genuine Walbro parts for it.
The reply floored me.
Husqvarna paid for the developement of the carb so they owned the IP for it and even Walbro were not allowed to make the carb or any part for the carb without Husqvarna's approval .
So it is a new ( read very expensive ) carb only available through a dealer or nothing .
So Stihl probably have a similar deal with Zama considering they own 1/2 the Chinese factory that makes them

Just for the sake of all this, I ordered an Amazon carb for it. I want to thank you again for all the 2 cycle advice you've given me over the years. I've learned a lot from you and the others here.
But I'm getting to the point that I'd rather eat a few cheap carbs, than deal with this crap. There's just not enough money in 2 cycles for me.
At least not until I get a lot more knowledgeable. Plus a tool to check for crank case air leaks and such.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

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You can use this for pressure and vacum tests. You use a piece of inner tube to block off exhaust port and intake port then use a spark plug adapter to hook pump to engine.

 

[Fish]

The ones with the groove are still available. On making it work, did he say that you should swap the throttle shaft?

 

[PTmowerMech]

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You can use this for pressure and vacum tests. You use a piece of inner tube to block off exhaust port and intake port then use a spark plug adapter to hook pump to engine.

I have one of these. Been using it for about 6 months now. I got the one that bert advised. The metal one. Never install a carb without testing it. But never used it to check engine leaks.

 

[PTmowerMech]

The ones with the groove are still available. On making it work, did he say that you should swap the throttle shaft?

He said to remove the butterfly and the little clip on the end of the shaft. Then it comes right out. And of course the OEM just slides right into this one. So I'm guessing (and hoping) the ID's are the same. I ask him about leaks from there, he said it wouldn't.
It would seem he's been through this with other customers before.

 

[Fish]

I remember encountering the problem before, and I don't remember the swap being able to work. Which is why I just sell the throttle cable with the carb.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-FS38...655879?hash=item2f4a28e0c7:g:u2oAAOSwImpXpQAH

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I have one of these. Been using it for about 6 months now. I got the one that bert advised. The metal one. Never install a carb without testing it. But never used it to check engine leaks.

If you plan to work on chainsaws you should learn to vacum and pressure test crankcases and intake boots. Air leaks will burn up an engine. Trimmers and blowers usually just run bad. You can drive yourself nuts trying to fix an engine with an air leak. Since most OPE engines are piston port and not reed valve or rotary valve troubleahooting is fairly simple if you test and not guess.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Doubling up on what Hammer has just said.
Very first test is to pull the fuel line off the carb and see if the tank will hold 5 to 10 PSI,
Most don't because the fuel lines are leaking where they pass through the tank or the carb check valve in the purge bulb is faulty
Slip the return line off the carb and pop a golf T in it then test the tank again
Swap to vacuum
Any vacuum reading = bad cap or vent
I replace at least a dozen caps a year now

At least 1/3 of the hand helds that come in have no engine problems at all, just leaking fuel tanks
So it is new cap, new spark plug, test OK then send it back $ 45 ( Aus ) + parts for 1/2 hours work .
You can go mad trying to get one to work reliably, you tune it then it goes out of tune so you do it again then 1/2 latter it is bad because the pressure in the fuel system is consistantly changing .