Not seeing any issue.
Have you ever cleaned the cooling fins and block area? Pretty sure that is a must-do. Most of these engines are air cooled.
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Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over
- Thread starter JimP2014
- Start date
Have you ever cleaned the cooling fins and block area? Pretty sure that is a must-do. Most of these engines are air cooled.
Well right now. Hopefully there are no issues. This has been 7 weeks of constant problems. I'm sure a small engine mechanic would have that solved and maybe the first 7 hours but the cooling fan or fins. The plastic fins plus couple other parts just came. So I'm going to put those on. The only thing I'm afraid of is in order to get it off meaning the other one I have to take out the bowl for the flywheel bolt and not destroy the flywheel key and torque it down to 100 foot pounds and then start it up and hope I didn't break anything. She only drawback That's the only drawback to installing new fan.Not seeing any issue.
Have you ever cleaned the cooling fins and block area? Pretty sure that is a must-do. Most of these engines are air cooled.
Jim
NO. You need a new OEM fan blade or flywheel. What ever your model takes. These air cooled engines heat up in short order, as in 1-2 minutes. Summer 100 degree temps quicken this. Fix the mower right, sell it DIVULGING it has items need fixing or hire a lawn crew.Can slightly damaged flywheel fan, plastic type. Provide enough cooling to cut 800 square feet of grass. That's all I want to do?
All this running without a proper fan and no engine shroud doesn't help it either.
Fix the gasket leak.Lower left corner of the valve cover has some oil dripping. The valve cover is not a perfect seal but could there be something else going on?View attachment 69097
All this probably started from over heating and lack of oil.
I'm not sure about what you're saying but the box came today. It says Briggs& Stratton on it and it looks like it is identical. I threw the box away but it seems to me to be the same exact setup.NO. You need a new OEM fan blade or flywheel. What ever your model takes. These air cooled engines heat up in short order, as in 1-2 minutes. Summer 100 degree temps quicken this. Fix the mower right, sell it DIVULGING it has items need fixing or hire a lawn crew.
All this running without a proper fan and no engine shroud doesn't help it either.
So today July 30th 2024 I just ran it for about 5 minutes. I was actually cutting grass it seem like the governor was kicking in more than normal. I shut it down. I took the temperature with a thermal gun. The thermal gun can't register the temperature because it's too hot and the video above to fix some fluid boiling between the valve cover gasket and the cylinder head. I'm not sure if this is new but it's still running very hot and I only cut the lawn for maybe 5 minutes figuring something was going to go wrong.
Jim
Are your main jets the proper size and or possibly in the right spot?
Run the engine with the choke say 50% ON. See if the extra fuel cools the hot cyls down. Enough choke to just start to stumble, for temp testing only.
For an engine that hot, the emulsion tube might be plugged up as well? You getting a full flow of fuel AT the carb inlet? Pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Should be a full flow of gas. Something is leaning that engine out. Dirty carb, lines and or fuel tank.
What oil are you running? Don't tell us 5w-30 either LOL. Some Amsoil 20,000 mile wonder oil? Use straight SAE 30W oil to the FULL mark only on flat ground.
With proper oil, OEM good fan for proper cooling and the valves adjusted, shouldn't be over heating like it is.
Run the engine with the choke say 50% ON. See if the extra fuel cools the hot cyls down. Enough choke to just start to stumble, for temp testing only.
For an engine that hot, the emulsion tube might be plugged up as well? You getting a full flow of fuel AT the carb inlet? Pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Should be a full flow of gas. Something is leaning that engine out. Dirty carb, lines and or fuel tank.
What oil are you running? Don't tell us 5w-30 either LOL. Some Amsoil 20,000 mile wonder oil? Use straight SAE 30W oil to the FULL mark only on flat ground.
With proper oil, OEM good fan for proper cooling and the valves adjusted, shouldn't be over heating like it is.
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Did you lap the head and area on the block where the gaskets sits? Or just clean her up a bit a toss on a gasket? Every head I've pulled is not flat. Also do a 3 step torque on the head bolts.There was nothing wrong with it except a lot of smoke so I replaced the head gasket and all's I could say is from there everything went downhill.
Was the new carb an OEM Briggs or some fancy new Amazon Gambler Series?I can only say I swapped out the original carburetor I put a brand new carburetor in which actually if you know what you're doing only takes under 5 minutes or less and it was the same problem.
If he has any popping out of the muffler or carb, cam and or ignition timing and or a good vacuum leak could be going on. Seeing this is running super hot, a fat vacuum leak is suspect to me. Get something that burns. Spray around all areas looking for leaks.I'm not the greatest small engine mechanic - I keep my stuff running well and that's about it. But if I understand all you posts, the motor turns (I think), you have spark (I think), and the motor pops on occasion (I think). Given those premises, did you possibly hit a rock or stump that may have broken the key that keeps the flywheel located on the crank? All of your clues would indicate a possible timing issue to me.