Briggs and Stratton Intek v-twin 20hp

OK, I understand. But it's a new, never been used gauge. This is literally the first time I've had it out of the box. And with the numbers for compression that the manual says it should be, I thought it was a good number. The instructions say it can be used for any type of engine.
 
When you adjusted the valves did you notice if the exhaust valves were not opening as much as the intake valves? Late or lazy exhaust valve opening is a sign of a worn camshaft. Late exhaust valve opening will also contribute to the initial problem you described of popping back in the intake. That popping is the intake valve opening while there is still compression pressure in the cylinders.

Does the engine crank normally when the plugs are in or does it fight the starter?
 
Auto Doc's said:
When you adjusted the valves did you notice if the exhaust valves were not opening as much as the intake valves? Late or lazy exhaust valve opening is a sign of a worn camshaft. Late exhaust valve opening will also contribute to the initial problem you described of popping back in the intake. That popping is the intake valve opening while there is still compression pressure in the cylinders.

Does the engine crank normally when the plugs are in or does it fight the starter?
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The valves seem to open up the same amount. As for the engine cranking while the plugs are installed, if the battery is charged, it cranks fine. Am I needing to replace the camshaft?
I forgot to mention that sometimes it doesn't shut off when the key is turned to the off position. It will sputter, but continue to run for a few seconds, then shut off.
 
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If the valves appear to be opening about the same and it is cranking good, the camshaft is likely okay. I mentioned it because I've had them wear the lobes down before.
 
Auto Doc's said:
If the valves appear to be opening about the same and it is cranking good, the camshaft is likely okay. I mentioned it because I've had them wear the lobes down before.
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There are times when it won't crank over well, but that has always been when the battery is low. I don't have a trickle charger, so occasionally I have to put a charger on the battery. When it's fully charged, I don't have any issues.
 
Thinking that the kill switch diode was possibly bad, I ordered the diodes and made a harness myself. It was a real PITA, but I got it installed and the backfire is now gone, at least for the time being. I hope it's been fixed.
Thanks everyone for the assistance! This forum rocks!
 
Inline diodes are like an electrical "check valve". They are made to allow current to only flow one way. The problem begins slowly with age, vibration and heat. The diodes will develop stress cracks and begin to leak current the wrong way. This is where ignition coils start feeding back on each other or themselves and begin shorting out the ignition fire event.

Remember that ground is the opposite of positive current, but it is still current even though it seems harmless.
 
Auto Doc's said:
Inline diodes are like an electrical "check valve". They are made to allow current to only flow one way. The problem begins slowly with age, vibration and heat. The diodes will develop stress cracks and begin to leak current the wrong way. This is where ignition coils start feeding back on each other or themselves and begin shorting out the ignition fire event.

Remember that ground is the opposite of positive current, but it is still current even though it seems harmless.
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That was the original kill switch diode harness. If not for the forum, I would never be aware of the diode issue.
 
I've seen many wasted parts thrown at equipment because of these inline diodes hiding in the harness. Not every manufacturer uses them and some only use them on certain models.
 
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