Briggs and Stratton 10a902 - kick back when pulling starter rope

Thanks. I see where the cylinder head bolts get torqued to 140. But what about the torquing sequence? I know you're supposed to generally go opposite side to opposite side but I'd like to do it right.

This should help you out.
 

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Have to agree with Fish on this one. NEVER use loctite on any small engine nuts or bolts.
Well, Donyboy73 uses loc tight on many of his videos. I don't use it lots, but do on engine bolts after changing out the rings, or such.
 
OK, which one of the cylinder head pictures in an earlier post would this picture look like? BTW, all of the bolts are same length. Inch pounds vs. foot pounds! That's a pretty significant piece of information. Thanks.
 

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On the earlier chart, the top right one is the closest to yours, it basically hops from one side to the other, and is not hyper-critical on the sequence.

For others that read this, is 3 of your head bolts are longer, they go on the corner that the exhaust valve is close to, on this head in his pic,
it would be bottom right.
 
Hello--- First time here (and really sorry if I do this wrong).

This isn't a lawn mower question, but an engine question(s).

I bought an old generator (1970's ?) powered by an 11HP Briggs and Stratton engine. I started it before actually paying for it. Hard-starting, but it ran.

The generator-part was no good, I just removed and chucked it in the metal recycle. But no biggee-- I just wanted the engine anyway.

Got it home and the damn thing wouldn't start. Finally-- I did get it it to run ( for about 3 minutes), but kind of "rough" running.

As I said, it's an old B & S 11HP horizontal-shaft beast! I think it's an "updraft" carb setup. (whatever that is). Looks good on the outside (not all rusty/crusty).

It seems to be several things that I notice so far......

1. Gas "lightly" drips out of/ or off the bottom of the carburetor. Pulled the air cleaner, looked down, and looks like there's some gas in the bottom of the carb. Don't know what causes it, or if it's part of the non-start problem, it doesn't leak that much, but it just isn't supposed to be doing that.

2. Occasionally (maybe every 5th pull on the cord?)-- it just about rips my fingers off pulling the cord and handle back-- hard (and suddenly). Hurts like crazy. Then, for the next few pulls it seems OK. Then out of the blue-- does it again. Startling for sure-- and hurts like hell.

3. On a few occasions, also, (while trying to get it started), it would backfire.

4. I pulled the sparkplug out and it was dark black carbon-y, but dry/ not oily. Wire-brush-cleaned it well and blew it out w/ air compressor, and put it back in.

5. When I did finally get it started, it made a helluva scraping noise (sounded like it was in the recoil-spring area-- LOUD). Gave a little pull on the pull rope and it seemed to go away. (NOTE---- prior---- , I had the recoil cover off and WD-40'd the recoils/spring assy, and it was free and turning easy (it had previously been "draggy" and sort of slow- if at all- to get the pullrope and handle all the way rewound up tight. Anyway-- it seemed to be fine, when I put it back together).

Anyway-- I've made a pest of myself here as a newbie, and am sorry for that!

This big-ol' engine is a beast (it's hopefully destined to power a small bandsaw mill!), and it's just a shame to think to just chuck it in the metal recycle if it can be brought back to life! My hands are aching from the handle being ripped out of them--- instantly--- while working hard to PULL the rope--- I won't be able to keep the engine if I can't fix that-- my hands won't take it.

There are always a few of these older engines popping up "out there" (on Craigslist, etc), for maybe $100-200, so throwing a pile of money at it at a professional engine-repair shop is just not feasible.


Anyway-- and many/any thanks in advance------ has anyone out there ever had these kind of symptoms? I'd just hate to chuck this bad boy.


Thanks-- MakMak
 
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