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Bradley Blade Grinder
#1
jekjr
jekjr
I just got a new Bradley Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener. It appears that this is going to be a great little machine.
#2
lawn mower fanatic
Nice! Do you have any pictures?
lawn mower fanatic
I just got a new Bradley Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener. It appears that this is going to be a great little machine.
Nice! Do you have any pictures?
#3
P
possum
P
possum
I am in hopes that you will use this machine awhile and then post a fine review. Not only am I very curious about these machines maybe it will shed some light into the murky replies I get from my dealer and perhaps others on this site. My dealer has one and will sharpen only those blades that are pretty straight and simple. For example he will sharpen most blades on lawntractors and ZTRs but not most push mower blades. He claims that his machine will not do those blades like mulching blades for example. I have always wondered if he is just to lazy to reset his machine, does not want to bother, has a problem with liability, or if a person needs a different machine for different blades.
#4
jekjr
I just sharpened two sets of blades for my Kubota and they are pretty straight. One set was in baaadddd shape. Ran way too long before I pulled them off. The other set I had previously sharpened with a 4" side grinder and all I did was work the angle on them. Then because of you asking and my curiosity I pulled the blade off of one of my push mowers and tried it. I see what the guy is talking about on the push mower blade.I sharpened it but had to twist it and so forth to get an edge on it and it is not a great edge all the way because of the contours of the blade. I think that I will have to still use the 4" side grinder on that blade to maintain it. I do not run one of those mowers enough for that to be a problem to me. However the Kubota is another story. I had to have fresh blades on it daily as much as I was running it this past Summer. Probably will have to swap more than one set this coming summer if we run as much as I hope to get to run.
As far as the guy not wanting to reset the machine, I don't know what I could reset to make it work any better on that blade. the only adjustments on it are raise and lower the grinding wheel and once it is set that is pretty much the same or it looks to me it is. Then there is the rest that is adjustable which again once 1/8" is set that is pretty much not needed to be moved either.
I would rate the job on the Kubota blades as great. The others will either take some learning on my part by doing it hands on if I can figure out how to make it work.
I would rate the grinder as excellent for the price. It is heavy made. It runs smooth with no vibration.
I will try to come back and give more input as time goes on and I use it more. By Summer I should be grinding several sets a week for the Kubota.
Hope that helps.
jekjr
I am in hopes that you will use this machine awhile and then post a fine review. Not only am I very curious about these machines maybe it will shed some light into the murky replies I get from my dealer and perhaps others on this site. My dealer has one and will sharpen only those blades that are pretty straight and simple. For example he will sharpen most blades on lawntractors and ZTRs but not most push mower blades. He claims that his machine will not do those blades like mulching blades for example. I have always wondered if he is just to lazy to reset his machine, does not want to bother, has a problem with liability, or if a person needs a different machine for different blades.
I just sharpened two sets of blades for my Kubota and they are pretty straight. One set was in baaadddd shape. Ran way too long before I pulled them off. The other set I had previously sharpened with a 4" side grinder and all I did was work the angle on them. Then because of you asking and my curiosity I pulled the blade off of one of my push mowers and tried it. I see what the guy is talking about on the push mower blade.I sharpened it but had to twist it and so forth to get an edge on it and it is not a great edge all the way because of the contours of the blade. I think that I will have to still use the 4" side grinder on that blade to maintain it. I do not run one of those mowers enough for that to be a problem to me. However the Kubota is another story. I had to have fresh blades on it daily as much as I was running it this past Summer. Probably will have to swap more than one set this coming summer if we run as much as I hope to get to run.
As far as the guy not wanting to reset the machine, I don't know what I could reset to make it work any better on that blade. the only adjustments on it are raise and lower the grinding wheel and once it is set that is pretty much the same or it looks to me it is. Then there is the rest that is adjustable which again once 1/8" is set that is pretty much not needed to be moved either.
I would rate the job on the Kubota blades as great. The others will either take some learning on my part by doing it hands on if I can figure out how to make it work.
I would rate the grinder as excellent for the price. It is heavy made. It runs smooth with no vibration.
I will try to come back and give more input as time goes on and I use it more. By Summer I should be grinding several sets a week for the Kubota.
Hope that helps.
#5
M
motoman
Possum , Allow me to comment on the murkiness and dealer knowledge. He probably knows he cannot grind "rotary" or "twist" blades , but not why. A straight blade will lie obediently on a straight flat grinder bed and allow constant angle cutting edges. A blade with twist cannot be sharpened accurately on the same machine. A twist blade must be ground on a "finger" which supports the cutting edge as it spirals accross the grinding wheel surface. Although I have never seen or used a rotary lawnmower grinder the process described is how tool room grinding is done. The machines are expensive and use "air bearing spindles." If you have not choked on this explanation , read on.
I looked at you tube demo of a flat blade lawnmower grinder (make unknown) . I can see the appeal of such a machine but they look expensive and IMO (based on you tube) they are wasteful of blade material and of the pink wheel used ($$$). Further , although they could perform a secondary blade "clearance" grind behind the cutting edge , this was not shown. (to narrow the blade taper).
If enthusiasts do not have ?$600? ?$1000? to invest in such a machine I suggest "freehand" grinding tutuorial in this forum which accomplishes as much or more as the machines. Your $mil hands and senses can follow the twist blades when the flat grinder cannot. The cheap grey grinding wheel will work well at 1/4 the price of pink or white. :smile:
PS A rotary lawn mower blade has much in commom with a metal cutter. It demands (I'm pretty sure) quite accurate and constant blade dimensions as it cuts by passing a scissors-like edge accross a fixed cutting strip ( don't know what they call it). Since the blade set is a cylinder locked into position if each blade is not identical only some blades will cut. On the other hand the scythe config of (at least my) Craftsman blade only demands a good edge which need not be perfectly straight. Another reason the latter can be hand ground. Hope this helps.
M
motoman
I am in hopes that you will use this machine awhile and then post a fine review. Not only am I very curious about these machines maybe it will shed some light into the murky replies I get from my dealer and perhaps others on this site. My dealer has one and will sharpen only those blades that are pretty straight and simple. For example he will sharpen most blades on lawntractors and ZTRs but not most push mower blades. He claims that his machine will not do those blades like mulching blades for example. I have always wondered if he is just to lazy to reset his machine, does not want to bother, has a problem with liability, or if a person needs a different machine for different blades.
Possum , Allow me to comment on the murkiness and dealer knowledge. He probably knows he cannot grind "rotary" or "twist" blades , but not why. A straight blade will lie obediently on a straight flat grinder bed and allow constant angle cutting edges. A blade with twist cannot be sharpened accurately on the same machine. A twist blade must be ground on a "finger" which supports the cutting edge as it spirals accross the grinding wheel surface. Although I have never seen or used a rotary lawnmower grinder the process described is how tool room grinding is done. The machines are expensive and use "air bearing spindles." If you have not choked on this explanation , read on.
I looked at you tube demo of a flat blade lawnmower grinder (make unknown) . I can see the appeal of such a machine but they look expensive and IMO (based on you tube) they are wasteful of blade material and of the pink wheel used ($$$). Further , although they could perform a secondary blade "clearance" grind behind the cutting edge , this was not shown. (to narrow the blade taper).
If enthusiasts do not have ?$600? ?$1000? to invest in such a machine I suggest "freehand" grinding tutuorial in this forum which accomplishes as much or more as the machines. Your $mil hands and senses can follow the twist blades when the flat grinder cannot. The cheap grey grinding wheel will work well at 1/4 the price of pink or white. :smile:
PS A rotary lawn mower blade has much in commom with a metal cutter. It demands (I'm pretty sure) quite accurate and constant blade dimensions as it cuts by passing a scissors-like edge accross a fixed cutting strip ( don't know what they call it). Since the blade set is a cylinder locked into position if each blade is not identical only some blades will cut. On the other hand the scythe config of (at least my) Craftsman blade only demands a good edge which need not be perfectly straight. Another reason the latter can be hand ground. Hope this helps.
#6
jekjr
jekjr
The Bradley Blade Grinder is listed on e-bay at buy now for $175. You might bargain with them and get one cheaper than that. Shipping was $30. It came in very securely packed in a box that was then packed inside of another box with much cardboard around it for protection.
If I had to class it I would say it is much better than just a regular bench grinder.
Mine has what looks like an 8" wheel on it.
If I had to class it I would say it is much better than just a regular bench grinder.
Mine has what looks like an 8" wheel on it.
#7
M
motoman
jekr , indeed a good price and tempting if it works well., good luck with it
M
motoman
The Bradley Blade Grinder is listed on e-bay at buy now for $175. You might bargain with them and get one cheaper than that. Shipping was $30. It came in very securely packed in a box that was then packed inside of another box with much cardboard around it for protection.
If I had to class it I would say it is much better than just a regular bench grinder.
Mine has what looks like an 8" wheel on it.
jekr , indeed a good price and tempting if it works well., good luck with it
#8
jekjr
jekjr
On the straight blades offf of my Kubota Zero Turn I believe it will do a great job and don't see why it won't have a long life. Grinding a blade does not seem to have hardly any drag on the motor. I ground both ends on three blades and they are pretty thick blades.jekr , indeed a good price and tempting if it works will., good luck with it
#9
M
motoman
Sounds good . You got it for only a little more than a regular grinder! It has a wheel screw for up/down? What color wheel?
After you get used to it try putting on a secondary or clearance grind just behind cutting edge. You would do this by raising the wheel and advancing the blade under the wheel . It should not touch the cutting edge. This is similar to grinding a wood chisel, wood plane iron and even a drill tip. (Only an idea):drink:
M
motoman
On the straight blades offf of my Kubota Zero Turn I believe it will do a great job and don't see why it won't have a long life. Grinding a blade does not seem to have hardly any drag on the motor. I ground both ends on three blades and they are pretty thick blades.
Sounds good . You got it for only a little more than a regular grinder! It has a wheel screw for up/down? What color wheel?
After you get used to it try putting on a secondary or clearance grind just behind cutting edge. You would do this by raising the wheel and advancing the blade under the wheel . It should not touch the cutting edge. This is similar to grinding a wood chisel, wood plane iron and even a drill tip. (Only an idea):drink:
#11
Ric
I'd love to have Magna Matic 8000 blade grinder but I just can't see the price. For $1189 I can sharpen a lot of blades. Oregon makes A good blade grinder and their prices run from $275 to $950 depend on the motor size.
Ric
The Bradley Blade Grinder is listed on e-bay at buy now for $175. You might bargain with them and get one cheaper than that. Shipping was $30. It came in very securely packed in a box that was then packed inside of another box with much cardboard around it for protection.
If I had to class it I would say it is much better than just a regular bench grinder.
Mine has what looks like an 8" wheel on it.
I'd love to have Magna Matic 8000 blade grinder but I just can't see the price. For $1189 I can sharpen a lot of blades. Oregon makes A good blade grinder and their prices run from $275 to $950 depend on the motor size.
#12
jekjr
I looked at the Oregon one on the net. I decided on the Bradley one becasue it had a larger motor than the Oregon entry level one and was about $100 cheaper than it was. I got mine off of e-bay in fact over $100 cheaper and it appears to be a pretty stout little machine.
jekjr
I'd love to have Magna Matic 8000 blade grinder but I just can't see the price. For $1189 I can sharpen a lot of blades. Oregon makes A good blade grinder and their prices run from $275 to $950 depend on the motor size.
I looked at the Oregon one on the net. I decided on the Bradley one becasue it had a larger motor than the Oregon entry level one and was about $100 cheaper than it was. I got mine off of e-bay in fact over $100 cheaper and it appears to be a pretty stout little machine.