Bobcat/ briggs wiring help!

[madman]

Hey guys and gals.
In desperate need of some help.
Sent my Bobcat 36 classic walk behind out for some what I thought was going to be some simple work. Simply had wanted to hook the battery and new key switch I had purchased to the stator so it would charge.. The guy said over the weekend he would have it taken care of.. NOOO problem he said... Well 6 weeks later (late last fall) he finally came back and dropped it off. got paid. machine seemed to start right up. (had new battery) used it. Went back out following couple days later and dead. charged it.. used it. dead next day. Bought new battery, happened again. So now i'm in a jam. He cut my entire harness out of the machine and had a jumble of wires and butt connectors everywhere. And my inline fuse holder was gone. So here is a picture of all the items I'm trying to connect up to make it work. And somewhere in there I would think I'll have to put the fuse back in. There's also the issue of a kill switch that is activated when you release the levers on the handle. (he took the levers completely off and gave them to me in a box.. ) Any electrical guys out there? I'm not good with the wiring part. I could rebuild the motor though...Sorry such a long post but am hoping to give you as much info as possible.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Download this guide from Briggs & Stratton Alternator replacement guide
It contains everything you need to know and towards the back has generic wiring diagrams for most set ups
If you get stuck came back & ask questions.
The more question the better.
If you work from that book then we all will have the same information which makes things easier for every one.
Now for safety sake do not connect the magneto wire till everything is connected and then check that no matter what you do, the kill wire never ever has any voltage on it .
If this happens in use the magneto modules ( coils ) will be fried and they are not a repairable part .

 

[bertsmobile1]

Key switch codes
M = magneto kill wire
B = battery ( power in ) which should be fused
X = A ? should have the regulated rectified feed from the alternator
G= Ground
S= Start
L = lights

 

[madman]

Download this guide from Briggs & Stratton Alternator replacement guide
It contains everything you need to know and towards the back has generic wiring diagrams for most set ups
If you get stuck came back & ask questions.
The more question the better.
If you work from that book then we all will have the same information which makes things easier for every one.
Now for safety sake do not connect the magneto wire till everything is connected and then check that no matter what you do, the kill wire never ever has any voltage on it .
If this happens in use the magneto modules ( coils ) will be fried and they are not a repairable part .

Thanks, downloading it this morning and going to just print it out. I looked and it does have a diagram like mine in there. Going to check to see if i've already "fried" anything.... one question though, in your next reply you listing the "L" on the switch as lights. The diagram i'm seeing has the "L" for the carb solenoid. I realize if I had lights I could use it for that purpose. So I suppose the next step is to bench check the coil, Rectifier, and magneto. I also found a old harness off a lesco I had. Going to check it out and see what can and cannot be used off of it. Thanks.

 

[Fish]

Take a few pics of what you have too, it will help us in helping you.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Depends upon the actual mower.
If it has an AC lighting circuit the L connected the lights to the ground .
As you have a walk behind I assume there are no lights on it.
The booklet has the interconnections for different switches .
Some switches have A1 , A2 , L 1 & L2 terminals
There are quite a few variations
However G,M,S,B & A are always wired the same G + M for stop & B+S for start .
If you have a solenoid then it has to be energised from one of the pins that is connected to the B terminal when the engine is going & open circuit when stopped.
The only complicated bit is the wiring of the PTO switch as it has both 12V for the PTO passing through it and various grounds for the safety circuits.
Usually the pins closest to the knob ae the start circuit and all the rest are the PTO & Safeties.
A lot of PTO's are wired directly to the battery with the switch making the ground to complete the circuit
But the schematics should show that.
If you are using an old harness you can usually pull the terminals out of the plugs using a thin screwdriver to depress the barbs then giving thee wire a sharp pull .
I use a "special tool" which is a 0.045" feeler ground down to be a close ift in the slot and ground to a single sides knife edge.
Push the terminals forward to get some clearance between the barb & the retaining tap then push the tool in and jag the wire back .

To test the coil, pull the plug and flick the flywheel magnet past the coil.
It should throw a spark.
You can even use an electric screwdriver / drill with a socket driving the flywheel retainer.
In air it should throw a spark of around 1/2 between the wire &the block ( no plug )
If it throws no spark at all then the coil is toast .
Very few can be tested with an Ohm meter because of the trigger chip .

 

[madman]

So hopefully these pics will help

 

[StarTech]

Will not have an AC circuit due to having a Tri-circuit stator and regulator.

Need the model number to look-up the mower parts. Need know to what switch it is using.

 

[madman]

Briggs # 28bh11760114e code 030827za 15.5 ohv

 

[Fish]

So you have a keyswitch and on/off switch?