No need to jump the safety switches as current is getting to the starter solenoid, because you hear a click. You have a voltage drop somewhere, which is why I’m asking you to follow a step by step procedure. Remember I’m a retired instructor and like to follow things in a specific order, not jumping around. My guess right now is you have a bad, dirty or loose ground cable to chassis connection.
Bad boy magnum 735cc many issues
- Thread starter 800screws
- Start date
Ok I’ll check the grounds tomorrow morning. I did test the switch. Everything tested good except for S to B which I though would have continuity with the key on. It does make continuity when the key is turned to start.
is that correct for the charging?
is that correct for the charging?
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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That is right, the S sends a signal to the starter motor to spin so it is only energized when the key is in the S position, just the same an automobile.
Most mowers are wired basically the same but it is always useful to get your hands on a wiring schematic cause they all like to do the same thing differently.
So we can help you we need to know the Bad Boy model & serial numbers.
I only have one Bad Boy in my service run & all I have ever done for the customer is change belts so I have no idea where BB put their wiring diagrams or if they are available outside their dealer network at all.
The only other thing that needs power for the engine to run is the carb solenoid and usually that is on the A or L terminal on the key switch.
We also all do things differently &I like to bypass all of the safety switches one at a time using short jumpers on the plugs to mimick the switch.
All of them a simple sliding contact switches making or braking contact on the flat sides of the pins.
Nearly all of them are ground switching which seems to confuse most home mechanics.
Be careful not to bridge any plug diagonally as any voltage accidentally send down the kill wire will blow the timing chip
I usually pull the kill wire just to be on the safe side & if looking for a kill wire problem set up a test lamp between the + battery terminal & the kill wire.
Only 2 things that will stop the engine electrically
1) ground on the kill wire
2) no voltage on the carb solenoid wire
BEcause of all of the 1/2 wit idiot morons on U tube advocating the removal of the seat switch, the newer ones have a bridging contact concealed within the plug so if you unplug it the engine gets a kill signal.
I’m at a loss as to what you are saying. In one post you say you replaced the solenoid because you had a hard time turning the engine over. In another post you say the starter solenoid only clicks. In a post you say directly jumping the starter it turns slowly. In a post you say you have zero voltage at the small wire on the small wire at the solenoid. You can’t have it both ways (no voltage and clicking) unless you have any intermittent short or open. Another thing, do you have the starter with a solenoid mounted on it, or a remote mounted solenoid? If remote, is it a three or four post solenoid. If you want to jump around testing different components and not follow a step by step procedure, then I will not be of much help to you, because I’m not smart enough to troubleshoot that way over the internet.
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For troubleshooting for as that least I need the Bad Boy model number from its serial tag so I can try to find the electrical schematics.
When I looked the KT740-3029 it showed it had an Inertial starter and not a solenoid shift starter. So when you said you replaced starter solenoid you replace the remote solenoid? The Inertial starter do have bushings that wear out causing the starter to drag so it may worn out but do have other problems which may that new starter either already toast from the amperage draw of the stalled starter motor. Or it may not even fully pulling in due a voltage drop problem. Check the voltage across the solenoid trigger wire terminal and its ground it should be the same voltage as the battery - less than 1V voltage drop.
But I do see where you said there is no voltage at the small terminal of the starter solenoid so you must get that circuit working first. That why we the model number of the mower as to see what Bad Boy did in setting up the wiring so we can suggest what to test.
As bypassing safeties it all depends on Bad Boy set things up. Some mowers use live safeties and others grounding safeties. Bypassing them the wrong way and you just start fighting yourself.
When I looked the KT740-3029 it showed it had an Inertial starter and not a solenoid shift starter. So when you said you replaced starter solenoid you replace the remote solenoid? The Inertial starter do have bushings that wear out causing the starter to drag so it may worn out but do have other problems which may that new starter either already toast from the amperage draw of the stalled starter motor. Or it may not even fully pulling in due a voltage drop problem. Check the voltage across the solenoid trigger wire terminal and its ground it should be the same voltage as the battery - less than 1V voltage drop.
But I do see where you said there is no voltage at the small terminal of the starter solenoid so you must get that circuit working first. That why we the model number of the mower as to see what Bad Boy did in setting up the wiring so we can suggest what to test.
As bypassing safeties it all depends on Bad Boy set things up. Some mowers use live safeties and others grounding safeties. Bypassing them the wrong way and you just start fighting yourself.
I’m working on just trying to get 12v to the ignition wire on the remote starter solenoid wire at this point. I have 12v coming into the relay when the ignition switch is turned to start. I posted pics. I hear and feel the relay click. But 12v is not coming out anywhere else after the relay is closed. And I’ve tried different relays.
The safety switches are yellow white for the control arms.... which i assume are live. And the e brake switch is black and white meaning grounded when on.
The safety switches are yellow white for the control arms.... which i assume are live. And the e brake switch is black and white meaning grounded when on.
I’m sorry, but I’m getting out of this thread. I’ve tried to help, but you refuse to follow any of the question or directions I have posted, which means you must be smarter than me. Hope that someone who is smarter than me can help you out, because I’m sick and tired trying to jump through your hoops. If you really want help I advise you to open your brain and listen to what they say, because you came here looking for help. We are here to help, not type in trash and hope it works.