B & S Md# 33r777-0005-g1 replaced by a B & S 33S877-0043

[HusqvarnaRider]

Greetings Ya'll,

Our Husqvarana riding mower Md# YTH18542 motor began smoking while under load, as well as blowing oil out of the fill tube. This happened two weeks after the Warranty went out on the Mower!

There are two B & S Motors listed as replacements for the original motor being a Md# 33S877-0019-G1 and a Md# 33S877-0043.

The Md# 33S877-0043 appears to be a newer, "revised version" of the Md# 33S877-0019-G1, & I can buy it for far less $$$ than the "0019-G1".

Has anybody run in to any problems with the Md# 33S877-0043?

 

[Rivets]

First, if it is only two weeks out of warranty I would be going a GOOD authorized Briggs repair dealer and see if Briggs will authorize repair. To me it sounds like a blown head gasket, which will definitely rule out replacing the engine, but repairing the problem. Even if you have to repair the engine, far cheaper than replacing. Just my opinion for what it is worth.

 

[HusqvarnaRider]

Greetings Rivets,

I tried two local "Repair Shops", that weren't "GOOD" apparently, & they shut me down over the warranty, & that was back in May 2025. Since that time, I fanatically kept the oil level up to where it is supposed to be, & would give the Mower a rest for about a 1/2 hour, & then finish the Mowing. The weird part about this was that it would not always belch smoke, & there was never any "Rattle" that suggested problems with the valves, etc.

I made several calls to other Repair Shops, over in the next County, & they were all to busy to take a quick look at it, & they basically told me that they would not be able to work on it for 3-4 weeks, and that just looking at it would cost at least $150.00, & The repair could go in to several hundred dollars more, with all labor & parts having only a 90 day warranty.

That's why I decided to keep our lawn mowed, until I could find a replacement motor.

That all "came to head", last thursday, for the motor just stopped running, & after about 5 minutes, I was able to restart it, & drive it back to the house. The weird part about that, was it appeared to have full power, but it did smoke somewhat.

But I Believe that the motor is now "In Hospice".

 

[Auto Doc's]

The 2 basic engines are the same but assembled with different carburetors and intake systems.

Yours likely just need the head pulled, then leveled/ resurfaced properly and the head gasket replaced. These were bad about the head gasket failing on the pushrod side and blowing compression pressure back into the crankcase and sucking oil into the combustion chamber.

If you remove the top air shroud on yours, it has likely had excess grass and dirt blocking the cooling fins, or a huge mouse nest is hiding under there. Air cooled engines need good airflow from the flywheel fan.

I recently pulled a top air shroud off of a similar engine and it was stuffed full hay bale string and cotton batting. It took hours to clean all that debris out and remove all the heat shields for a thorough cleaning.

There are lots of good videos about repairing this engine design.

 

[Rivets]

I would contact Briggs customer service and explain the problem. Only costs you a little time no matter what they say. Being a service tech for more than 35 years I’m pleasantly surprised at the answers I get more than once. Try this number, stay calm and explain everything you’ve done to resolve the problem. 1-800-356-632

 

[HusqvarnaRider]

Greetings Auto Doc's and Rivets,

Auto Doc's, If I'm understanding correctly, is "Leveling/resurfacing" the head the act of grinding/polishing it, to certain specifications? Kinda what a machine shop would do to an automobile rotor? And, You'll have to forgive me if I'm mislabeling the engine part, but wouldn't the "Engine Block" that the "Head" attaches to, also have to be "Leveled & Resurfaced"?

"These were bad about the head gasket failing on the pushrod side and blowing compression pressure back into the crankcase and sucking oil into the combustion chamber". ----- Is there a better "Head Gasket", other than the Factory OEM, that would prevent this from happening? I'm actually pondering on rebuilding this engine, & having it as a back-up, due to the "Tariff/Economy Situation".

As far as the "Air Shroud Removal", I removed it, & cleaned the area each season, when I changed the Spark plug, Oil Filter, & Oil.

Rivets,.... With my knowing of the Oil Spray, & Smoking when under a heavy load, & zealously maintaining the oil level while operating the Mower, and with consideration towards the "Warranty" having expired now by several months,... What do You think that B & G Tech would do?

 

[Rivets]

Ok, don’t waste your time calling Briggs, probably a bad idea anyway. You came here asking for help and the symptoms you described would lead a good mechanic to start with a blown head gasket. Doc and I both are leading you to repair the engine, which would be far cheaper than replacing. You can go any route you would like, but I’m backing out of this thread, as your replies indicate that you think you are smarter than us and want to question our suggestions. We’ve both seen this before and right now I don’t have the patience to deal with this. Good Luck.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello HR.

The head is the first to warp from excess heat. That is not uncommon on this design.

To re true the head gasket surface I use a section of tempered glass or a glass tabletop (when my wife is not around) and come 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper. I sit the head on the sandpaper (head gasket surface down) and lightly scrub the head back and forth on the sandpaper.

I stop and check every 10-20 strokes to see the progress. It is easy to tell what is being sanded and what is not.

Once the entire surface looks uniform, it is ready to be reinstalled with a new head gasket.

Make sure to reset the valve clearances.

 

[HusqvarnaRider]

Ok, don’t waste your time calling Briggs, probably a bad idea anyway. You came here asking for help and the symptoms you described would lead a good mechanic to start with a blown head gasket. Doc and I both are leading you to repair the engine, which would be far cheaper than replacing. You can go any route you would like, but I’m backing out of this thread, as your replies indicate that you think you are smarter than us and want to question our suggestions. We’ve both seen this before and right now I don’t have the patience to deal with this. Good Luck.

Rivets, I Apologize if My Asking so many questions, as well as stating what I've done has has offended You Sir.

My field of work is HVAC/ Refrigeration/Electrical/Plumbing Repair, & Restaurant Equipment, & I Assure You Sir, I've always, beginning as a "Helper" back in 1974,.... Always Asked many Questions regarding any Service Work, or Installation. I've done that in every School, Seminar, & even in College that I attended. And I ask many Questions of All Equipment, & Parts Suppliers,.... So that I have Knowledge of what I am expected to do.

And Sir,..... I Never Once Intended For You To Think That I Am Smarter Than You.

Again Sir,..... I Apologize for having Offended You, but if if that is not good for you,.... Then "Good Luck" to You also.

 

[Rivets]

As a retired instructor I’ve answered more questions than you’ve ever asked. My problem is with those who are so fixated on what they want, they disregard the answers they are given. You say you’re probably going to tear it down, why not remove the head and see if we are right, blown head gasket. Much cheaper to replace than buying new. Are you telling me that your customers would do the same on equipment you could repair for them. That’s the reason I’m getting out of this thread, as I’ve said, I’ve lost my patience with those who are so hard headed in their ways.