Arrgh, broke bolt removing brakes.

[Elkins45]

The brakes don’t work on my new used mower with a Peerless transmission. Turns out the pins are frozen with rust, and so was the longer of the two bolts holding it in place. I thought it was turning but it was just the head twisting off.

This should be fun. I’m going to remove the bracket and hopefully spin the brake assembly off the bolt, then try to back it out with a set of vice grips.

 

[7394]

Spray the broke bolt first like day before with something good like Kroil, or your choice.

Might even need to heat up the housing to expand, then give it a try. Careful on the heat tho.

 

[Elkins45]

I can’t get enough of a grip on it to turn it out. I’ve soaked it in Kroil for a week but my vice grips just twist on the shaft. I tried jamming two nuts and turning it off with a wrench but it stripped the threads.

I‘m starting to think I just need to cut it off flush and use a LH drill bit.

 

[7394]

If you have welder access, weld a bolt on the stud.

 

[Forest#2]

That happened to me awhile back.
I raised the rear of the mower up on a hoist so as to be easy to get at the twisted off rusty brake bolt.
Steel bolt going into aluminum. Severely galled threads.
Just slightly enough stub to get vise grips onto then took vise grips off, took a propane torch (could have used oxy/acyt but did not want that much heat)
and heated the aluminum housing around under the bolt stub, not excessive heating, just a good warming to expand the aluminum and took a hammer and pecked several times on the stub of the bolt. (was really lucky that it left little bit of a stub)
This heat helps break up the galled steel/aluminum around the threads. Heat peck try to wiggle. (patience)
Finally got a slight movement but still lots of pecking and wiggling.
Finally got it to come out but still had to go back and forth several times all the way out. I could have tried welding a nut onto the stub but I wanted to actually see the stub bolt itself as I was trying to turn.

I chased the threads on both and used anti-seize during assembly.
Probably took at least 30 min's just warming and pecking on the stub. (knowing that if I twisted off it would result in a bad thing)

 

[Elkins45]

Well, I broke it off so I tried to remove it with a LH drill bit and broken screw extractors. The drilled-out stub is still in there. I think I need some better broken screw extractors.

 

[StarTech]

Well, I broke it off so I tried to remove it with a LH drill bit and broken screw extractors. The drilled-out stub is still in there. I think I need some better broken screw extractors.

Well that is one of two problems I have with those twist extractors. One is they are brittle and get sheared off. Second is they swell the screw you are trying to remove which makes it even harder to remove.

The problem you having is that steel has seized in the aluminum housing. The only solution I have found is to drill out and retap.

 

[Elkins45]

Well that is one of two problems I have with those twist extractors. One is they are brittle and get sheared off. Second is they swell the screw you are trying to remove which makes it even harder to remove.

The problem you having is that steel has seized in the aluminum housing. The only solution I have found is to drill out and retap.

That’s what I’m planning to do.

Edit: I’ve decided to drill it and tap it for a threaded insert. That way in the future it will be steel on steel.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

That’s what I’m planning to do.

Edit: I’ve decided to drill it and tap it for a threaded insert. That way in the future it will be steel on steel.

Are you the dude on Taryl Fixes All videos?

 

[Elkins45]

Are you the dude on Taryl Fixes All videos?

I'm trying to decide if this is a compliment or an insult.