6.5 Duraforce lower seal missing?
- Thread starter Jabski57
- Start date
Uh, yeah, I was WAY off base with what I was asking and the picture I showed about the seal. Turns out I was just at the beginning of a medical condition and wasn’t thinking clearly.
I’ve since had the engine off and freshened/ cleaned everything up (including the lower seal).
I still haven’t got it running yet as I have good days and bad days.
Right now, it’ll start and idle very slow and sputter a bit, then die,
Having trouble diagnosing it because pull starting is a problem now, so it can wait till some other time.
It looks like the throttle cable isn’t rotating the choke shaft far enough to throttle up when the throttle lever is pushed to the run or choke position.( even though the throttle handle and cable is relatively new, it acts like it’s not functioning correctly)
Anyway…..
I’ve since had the engine off and freshened/ cleaned everything up (including the lower seal).
I still haven’t got it running yet as I have good days and bad days.
Right now, it’ll start and idle very slow and sputter a bit, then die,
Having trouble diagnosing it because pull starting is a problem now, so it can wait till some other time.
It looks like the throttle cable isn’t rotating the choke shaft far enough to throttle up when the throttle lever is pushed to the run or choke position.( even though the throttle handle and cable is relatively new, it acts like it’s not functioning correctly)
Anyway…..
Lawnboy10323
Member
Did you adjust your throttle choke cable? There is a bolt and nut on the airbox in front of the airfilter cover, if you loosen that you'll be able to move the cable back and forth. Get it to where it's closing full choke. That's where it needs to be. Take the airfilter out and see how it's working.
But about that crank seal I was completley shocked!! Sounded like to me you would have a ton of oil spraying all over the ground. In order to replace it, you have to tear down to get to the short block assembly, Then you have to remove the crankcase halves by 6 screws. new top and bottom seals and recommend using hondabond gasket sealant to seal up those block halves when you're done. If you need help for the duraforce problems let me know. Thanks,
Lawnboy10323
But about that crank seal I was completley shocked!! Sounded like to me you would have a ton of oil spraying all over the ground. In order to replace it, you have to tear down to get to the short block assembly, Then you have to remove the crankcase halves by 6 screws. new top and bottom seals and recommend using hondabond gasket sealant to seal up those block halves when you're done. If you need help for the duraforce problems let me know. Thanks,
Lawnboy10323
Well, I didn’t split the cases( I did once about 15 yrs ago on another mower), but I pulled the lower out with a pick and slid a new seal down the shaft and gently tapped in with a deep well socket. The top was not messed with.Not ideal, but ….
Yeah, I loosened the cable and pushed it towards the carb as far as possible then tightened the nut, but the little peg is just barely pushing into the “V” of the choke shaft. It’s frustrating me, because I used to mess with these carbs all the time and this symptom, I’ve never run across yet.
To back up a little, this had been running strong, forever, then one day I shut it off to talk to a neighbor, and when I tried restarting it, it was the barely running, sputtering, then dying and very hard to restart problem that I have now. I put new lines, primer bulb, cleaned carb, checked exhaust port,etc. hoping something would fix it.
I’m just not understanding how one minuit it ran like a champ, I shut it off, and now it will not restart, having the low RPM, barely running, sputtering symptoms without it even being touched.
It has to be the throttle cable not actuating the choke shaft. When I loosened the nut and pushed the cable as far as it would go, I had the throttle lever in the choke position. Is that the correct procedure, or should it have been pulled back to low before pushing the cable? The throttle lever assembly and cable is relatively new(3 yrs)
Sorry for rambling. It just pisses me off, because I NEVER had problems keeping this, or my old 22261 running like a top!
Yeah, I loosened the cable and pushed it towards the carb as far as possible then tightened the nut, but the little peg is just barely pushing into the “V” of the choke shaft. It’s frustrating me, because I used to mess with these carbs all the time and this symptom, I’ve never run across yet.
To back up a little, this had been running strong, forever, then one day I shut it off to talk to a neighbor, and when I tried restarting it, it was the barely running, sputtering, then dying and very hard to restart problem that I have now. I put new lines, primer bulb, cleaned carb, checked exhaust port,etc. hoping something would fix it.
I’m just not understanding how one minuit it ran like a champ, I shut it off, and now it will not restart, having the low RPM, barely running, sputtering symptoms without it even being touched.
It has to be the throttle cable not actuating the choke shaft. When I loosened the nut and pushed the cable as far as it would go, I had the throttle lever in the choke position. Is that the correct procedure, or should it have been pulled back to low before pushing the cable? The throttle lever assembly and cable is relatively new(3 yrs)
Sorry for rambling. It just pisses me off, because I NEVER had problems keeping this, or my old 22261 running like a top!