54 inch riding mower just clicks, won't start

[JP98]

I can't get any love around here. No other suggestions??

 

[slomo]

Just for fun, I charged it all night. The charger indicated it's good. Turned the ignition on and tried to start it. Same result. I suppose I can take it to an auto parts store and have them test it to be 100% sure.

Batteries need LOAD tested. All electrical circuits need load tested. The old school carbon pile testers are preferred to the new resistance type testers. I've seen where the newer resistance types like Autozone use say the battery is good. On a carbon pile, she is bad and won't support the load. Yes test the battery, some way.

And again, I touched/shorted the starter solenoid and it cranked.

Tells you the battery has enough juice to crank and you got juice across the solenoid.

The engine turns like it wants to starts. Does this mean the starter is good?

Seems to me the starter is trying to start the engine, all in a testing type of way.

Does this mean the battery is good?

It's trying.......

Is it possible the starter solenoid I installed is no good?

Yes, all new parts require TESTING.

Would that be the symptom of a bad one?

When 12 volts is applied to the control side of the solenoid, solenoid clicks and passes battery power to the starter. That is a good one. If yours is not doing this then you found something.

 

[Rivets]

Won’t get love with a comment like that, you must think the techs here have a crystal ball and have seen everything. Electrical problems are the toughest to solve, especially when we are not standing next to you with a strong drink, which you supplied, to see exactly what is going on. Most techs here have learned this the hard way. You might want to try this procedure I use, but you must have patience and maybe an assistant.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words

 

[slomo]

Also, I ordered a safety switch from Amazon. It should be here in a couple of days. I guess I'll try that next. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Did you test the old one? What did you find?

Now you have to test this new Chinese switch from scamazon. You don't just whip out the credit card and order parts and expect, your mower to be fixed.

 

[JP98]

Won’t get love with a comment like that, you must think the techs here have a crystal ball and have seen everything. Electrical problems are the toughest to solve, especially when we are not standing next to you with a strong drink, which you supplied, to see exactly what is going on. Most techs here have learned this the hard way. You might want to try this procedure I use, but you must have patience and maybe an assistant.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words

Thank you so much. I will try your suggestions. I really do appreciate it. I was just frustrated. I'm no mechanic but I'm trying to fix my own stuff to save money and hopefully learn something in the process.

 

[JP98]

Did you test the old one? What did you find?

Now you have to test this new Chinese switch from scamazon. You don't just whip out the credit card and order parts and expect, your mower to be fixed.

I hear you. I have scamazon prime so I can return anything I purchase at no cost, even shipping is free.

 

[JP98]

Batteries need LOAD tested. All electrical circuits need load tested. The old school carbon pile testers are preferred to the new resistance type testers. I've seen where the newer resistance types like Autozone use say the battery is good. On a carbon pile, she is bad and won't support the load. Yes test the battery, some way.

Tells you the battery has enough juice to crank and you got juice across the solenoid.

Seems to me the starter is trying to start the engine, all in a testing type of way.

It's trying.......

Yes, all new parts require TESTING.

When 12 volts is applied to the control side of the solenoid, solenoid clicks and passes battery power to the starter. That is a good one. If yours is not doing this then you found something.

Thank you brother! Much appreciated. I will go over everything again so make sure I did it correctly and not miss anything.

 

[fox5flyer]

Ignition switches are cheap. Replace it and see what happens. Happened to me.

 

[pritcharddesign]

Check fuses.
Clean out clippings everywhere, as much as possible, including underneath.
Check, or have someone check, all safety switches, if you have them.

I can't get any love around here. No other suggestions??

 

[ChrisBFRPKY]

I have a 2011 BAD Boy MZ that acted funny like that. After checking all the safety stuff (that wasn't already bypassed), it ended up being a relay on the block stuffed down under the ignition key console/removable plate. Rather than playing musical relays I replaced all six relays with new ones. (A habit I highly recommend) The mower started as it should. I won't throw stones at anyone because I had replaced the starter solenoid on that one too before finding it wasn't the actual problem. Sometimes we're so sure of ourselves we tend to jump straight to the obvious but in all fairness I didn't even realize it HAD relays until I opened the console to test the ignition switch. Education is fun.