33R877 0002 G1

Suggest you replace the engine with a good used 31 series which will be a direct replacement and more plentiful than the 33 series. Alternators will interchange IF there is a difference there, IF you do that and have to change the alternator, the 31 will likely have a soft key IF not, throw the steel key away and put in a soft key and use torque wrench.
Walt Conner
 
PTmowerMech said:
From the looks of this. Seems the flywheel key tried to come out the top. In doing so, broke part of it, and bent the rest of it. Also broke a big chunk of the fly wheel cone.
There's still a good piece of the key that I used to see of the keyway had spread any. And it did.
Example: when you sick a good fly wheel key into a keyway, there's very little wiggle room. Stick it in the top of the crank now, and there's about double the wiggle.
Thus on a customers, and I'm scared of putting another key in it, with it as loose as it is.
Looking for advise. Is the crank junk? Can I put some foil in it to tighten it up?
Click to expand...
Been There done this: align crank and flywheel. drill through or most way through I think I used 3/16 install roll pin. It won't break again. Yes it works and beats replacing crankshaft. Use a good drill bit. don't break it off in hole unless all the way through and don't have a roll pin.
 
I wished I had thought of that before I tried my repair. I stuffed the key, at the wallered out part of the crank with foil. Trimmed off the edges with a razor. Nice and easy,set the (brand used) flywheel down onto it, and torqued it down.
Told the customer I'd warranty it for 30 days.
If it comes back, I'll put the roll pin in.

BTW, if it does come back, should I consider putting some loctite in the hole when I insert the roll pin? Or will the roll pin be fine without?
 
PTmowerMech said:
I wished I had thought of that before I tried my repair. I stuffed the key, at the wallered out part of the crank with foil. Trimmed off the edges with a razor. Nice and easy,set the (brand used) flywheel down onto it, and torqued it down.
Told the customer I'd warranty it for 30 days.
If it comes back, I'll put the roll pin in.

BTW, if it does come back, should I consider putting some loctite in the hole when I insert the roll pin? Or will the roll pin be fine without?
Click to expand...
Loctite can't hurt, depends on roll pin fit and if you need to remove flywheel ever again. heat will loosen loctite but burn up magneto.
 
Tinkerer200 said:
Well it was the roll pin I was talking about!
Walt Conner
Click to expand...
Hi Walt, It gets worse.. I didn't even drill all the way, just through half flywheel and crank, didn't want to chance breaking the bit. I was surprised how easy it was to drill through the crank. It was not hard at all. No way to get that pin out now without drilling again!. Did what I had to do when faced with a trashed crank and flywheel. Not a customers, I inherited the nightmare. Works like a champ.
 
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