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Hi Folks, Kinda at my wits end with this one. I have a 2019 Troy built mower, engine model 09P602. I am helping my older neighbor. Been setting up for a year. It would not even fire. Spark tester showed a bad coil which I replaced . It started but would only idle and eventually dies. I replaced the black plastic carburetor (startzeal 799583) figuring it was a mess.
also I have not heard good things about them after setting up for a long period. So, clean gas, new coil, new carb, new plug. I can get it to start but only idle rough and die. I am not sure how all the linkage works for the throttle but that seems to be the only thing I have not touched.

Any ideas?

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Not familiar with this exact machine but you've made a good start , no doubt the carb needed replacing as well as everything else you've done, I would install new fuel lines / filter if there is one as well, old gas will tend to varnish and stop up all sorts of things dry rot hoses and any other soft goods that sit up for extended periods of time.

Please post the model, type and code numbers for the engine. Two different carbs were used, depending on your numbers. Also please post the carb number you purchase and where you purchased it from. FleaBay and Altozon are notorious for wrong or junk parts.

Thank you! Here are the pics

Bertrrr said:

Not familiar with this exact machine but you've made a good start , no doubt the carb needed replacing as well as everything else you've done, I would install new fuel lines / filter if there is one as well, old gas will tend to varnish and stop up all sorts of things dry rot hoses and any other soft goods that sit up for extended periods of time.

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Thanks! I will replace the fuel line as well. I think I will add a valve so she can easily drain the tank in the winter.

Looks like you have the correct carb, but being purchased on Altozon at $18.00 I wouldn’t bet a nickel it is not faulty. OEM carb runs around $55.00.

Thanks so much for your help. I'll order an OEM

I can't count the number of carbs I got off Amazon - have not ran across a bad one yet

Bertrrr said:

I can't count the number of carbs I got off Amazon - have not ran across a bad one yet

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You've been VERY lucky. I'm at about 50/50 on my purchases. Funny one was on the old flat head 3.5hp engines. You know the ones Briggs made about 48 trillion of? On EVERY mower and tiller I could recall when I was a kid, 40 years ago LOL??? I had to mill some aluminum and get the fuel pump to work proper. Probably dull tooling that day when it was made. E-pray strikes again.

Bertrrr said:

I can't count the number of carbs I got off Amazon - have not ran across a bad one yet

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some are good, some are wrong but a lot are rejects bought from the factory as scrap then sold as "OEM" or "fits" but no where do they say "works"
These are usually the very cheap ones , so it depends which ones you are buying
Some vendors retail , Stens, rotary < oregon , or Prime Line parts and these are usually good
It is the unbraned ones in unbranded packaging that are suspect.
If I am making good carbs I want everyone to know so they will buy more from me
If I am selling junk I know does not work then I want to vanish without trace before some one shoots me , so I supply unbranded goods in unbranded packaging because I am squeezing it for every cent & printing a name on a box can add 2¢ to the price .

Bertrrr said:

I can't count the number of carbs I got off Amazon - have not ran across a bad one yet

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Well I have different luck myself.

Yeah guess I've been lucky but with free returns via Amazon it's a risk I'll probably keep dealing with

That is the easiest carb there is to fix just take the white center piece out and clean the main jet in the bottom of the carb. If you want to fix it so they don't stop up again order the new main jet assy. They moved the main jet from the bottom to the top.

hlw49 said:

If you want to fix it so they don't stop up again order the new main jet assy. They moved the main jet from the bottom to the top.

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NOPE. Here is the service bulletin on the changes.

Star, I’m confused. Looks like this bulletin is for engines use outside the USA? If my memory of past bulletins is any good, this would then NOT APPLY to USA engines

Actually it does apply. It just one of those things where the typist didn't include the USA. Besides 2017 was a long time ago now. And all the new nozzles I have install are of the new type and type still clog with jelly; just not as bad. I still find jelly beans in these carbs.

MFlo said:

Hi Folks, Kinda at my wits end with this one. I have a 2019 Troy built mower, engine model 09P602. I am helping my older neighbor. Been setting up for a year. It would not even fire. Spark tester showed a bad coil which I replaced . It started but would only idle and eventually dies. I replaced the black plastic carburetor (startzeal 799583) figuring it was a mess.
also I have not heard good things about them after setting up for a long period. So, clean gas, new coil, new carb, new plug. I can get it to start but only idle rough and die. I am not sure how all the linkage works for the throttle but that seems to be the only thing I have not touched.

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That is likely your problem. You probably bent the rod that goes to the carb butterfly and the rod is rubbing on the breather hose. Another problem often caused by the repair person is they bend the rod going to the choke thermostat and it will rub on the engine cover. For further reference, these plastic carbs rarely (if ever) need replacement. The plastic cleans easily and does not corrode.

MFlo said:

Hi Folks, Kinda at my wits end with this one. I have a 2019 Troy built mower, engine model 09P602. I am helping my older neighbor. Been setting up for a year. It would not even fire. Spark tester showed a bad coil which I replaced . It started but would only idle and eventually dies. I replaced the black plastic carburetor (startzeal 799583) figuring it was a mess.
also I have not heard good things about them after setting up for a long period. So, clean gas, new coil, new carb, new plug. I can get it to start but only idle rough and die. I am not sure how all the linkage works for the throttle but that seems to be the only thing I have not touched.

Any ideas?

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I have a 2016 Poulan with the same carb and the same problems. Every year I would need to disassemble and clean the carb (though there was never anything visibly amiss with it) then it would start and run OK for the year. Let it set for the winter, treated fuel, gumout added, doesn't matter
The carbs IMHO are cheap Chinese plastic crap. I ordered one online, if it solves the problem, good. If not - yard sale
Not worth the BS.

Catenary Kid said:

I have a 2016 Poulan with the same carb and the same problems. Every year I would need to disassemble and clean the carb (though there was never anything visibly amiss with it) then it would start and run OK for the year. Let it set for the winter, treated fuel, gumout added, doesn't matter
The carbs IMHO are cheap Chinese plastic crap. I ordered one online, if it solves the problem, good. If not - yard sale
Not worth the BS.

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Most of the aftermarket carburetors I order from Amazon have been plug and play and run great. Exceptions are often Kohler carburetors that run lean and require drilling out pilot jet slightly. These plastic carburetors cannot corrode because they are plastic, easy to clean and service. Install fuel shut off valve and run out most of fuel in carburetor during off season of use, majority of fuel issues solved.

Well mostly can't corrode. The brass jets and steel balls can. Here my biggest problem here is the fuel jelly that all seems to have when they come into the shop.

I think it's interesting they redesigned the idle jet positioning. Anybody know if they increased the main jet size on the new design? What I see the most is the main jet gets partially or fully clogged and it happens often. I used to use a micro-drill to clean the existing jet size but due to callbacks, I took Steve's advice (Steve's Small Engine Saloon) and everyone I get in now I drill out to 0.020. Engines run perfectly fine and it has eliminated call-backs!

Gas cap? I ran in to a similar problem where the motor started but would not rev up and stalled after ~30 seconds. The cap was previously over tightened and cut off the air intake. As gas is used, air needs to get into the tank to replace the volume of the gasoline otherwise it creates a vacuum in the tank which prevents the gas from flowing out. In this case the cap gasket was deformed from over constant tightening so I snipped some tiny wedges in the gasket to let air in and it worked great after that.

I bought a new OEM Briggs and Stratton Carb. I now have a new coil, plug, carb, clean gas. It will start but will idle then die. I sprayed starter fluid and it runs longer and dies. Eventually it will warm up and run fine. It's as if the choke does not work right. Thoughts?

Running way to lean? Either too much air (possible leak somewhere) or not enough fuel. About the only place lawn mower engines can have an air leak is the carb body to engine block interface. Dirt, remains of an old gasket stuck to the block, bad gasket or mounting bolts loose? Not enough fuel could be a clogged line, clogged jet, mixture out of adjustment (if it's even adjustable), float not set right, float needle valve gunked up,

The purpose of the choke is to increase the fuel:air ratio. Gets the mixture in the cylinder very rich so it's more able to ignite at startup. When the piston is going down on the intake stroke, it creates a vacuum in the carb, block the air with the choke and it sucks harder for fuel via the jet so it increases the fuel:air ratio two ways at once.

A new carb could have manufacturing debris left in it.

Rivets said:

Looks like you have the correct carb, but being purchased on Altozon at $18.00 I wouldn’t bet a nickel it is not faulty. OEM carb runs around $55.00.

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I bought an OEM carb new. I now have a new plug, coil, gas, and carb. Now it have a hard time starting the mower. It starts, idles for a bit and dies. I sprayed starting fluid and it ran longer before it died. Eventually it started and ran fine. I have to go through the same process everytime I cold start. Seems like the choke is not working. Thoughts?

Sounds like the main jet is clogged. Where did you purchase the new OEM carb from? If not from a dealership, theres a good chance it is defective. Techs on this forum have found the vast majority of carbs sold on FleaBay and Altozon are not worth the money people think they are saying. We’ve even seen the wrong carb packaged under different OEM numbers.