So I have made the decision to go back with a vtwin and save this engine if it turns out to be repairable... It might be it does run ... just with lots of vibration. It looks like the biggest obstacle is going to be longer throttle and choke cables... I can find the choke cable and I have an oregon one on the way... throttle is turning into a pita since I dont have a pn for my mower with a vtwin... again it seems like I might have to get creative.
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6 months on my new motor and its broken!
- Thread starter txzrider2
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Export threadbertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Just about every real mower repair shop keeps bulk bowden cable.
Measure how much longer the new one needs to be then take it to a mower shop and ask for one just like this but X inches longer
X= the distance too short to reach + 3" to allow you to fit the Z bend.
Measure how much longer the new one needs to be then take it to a mower shop and ask for one just like this but X inches longer
X= the distance too short to reach + 3" to allow you to fit the Z bend.
Thanks for the info...Just about every real mower repair shop keeps bulk bowden cable.
Measure how much longer the new one needs to be then take it to a mower shop and ask for one just like this but X inches longer
X= the distance too short to reach + 3" to allow you to fit the Z bend.
So the new vtwin engine is running... I still need to adjust the length of the throttle cable as it is too long and the mower is not going full throttle. It gets to about 3300, I was disappointed to learn it is a off brand engine... apparently the engine has been replaced previously on my bil's mower ... oh well I have my briggs to play with if this one dies... I hope to have the pto hooked up tonight and mowing! The engine does run incredibly smooth! Much smoother than any single cylinder I have ever had. Hoping to learn alot from the briggs!
new extreme pto installed and torqued... engine starts up and runs smooth and was half way through burnishing the pto when I ran out of gas. Hopefully will get some actual work done this weekend as well as relocating my trailer hitch to be a muffler protector! The vtwin muffler is different so I had to make some allowances for it. Plus some time soon I hope to have an answer to what happened to both of the 20hp briggs and may even be able to make one good one out of the 2 of them. Thanks again everyone for the help and advice. Most of us would have a hard time walking across the street with out the wonderful advice from folks like all of you here. I hope you all have a great 4th of July ... I know I will since this darn mower is running again!
Re: 6 months on my new motor and its broken! UPDATE!
Well the new eng. is still running great... which explains why something had to break... the new clutch started spinning when I hit the button to enable the blades... well you can guess that it did not go well for the wires to the new clutch. At 1st I thought well crap I must not have torqued that bolt enough and it allowed the clutch to slip down and off the pin. Nope apparently when the last issue happened it weakened the weld for the pin and it broke off! While it played heck with the wire harness from the clutch to the plug in the mower harness... it left enough I believe I can repair the wiring and reuse the clutch. It looks like I need to find a new way to attach a pin to stop the clutch from rotating tho'maybe something like I have seen on larger mowers where they have an arm going to the clutch. Anyway, as always I appreciate all the help given on this site and thought I would post this as a cautionary tale... if you have an electric pto... you have to make sure it cannot come loose!
Well the new eng. is still running great... which explains why something had to break... the new clutch started spinning when I hit the button to enable the blades... well you can guess that it did not go well for the wires to the new clutch. At 1st I thought well crap I must not have torqued that bolt enough and it allowed the clutch to slip down and off the pin. Nope apparently when the last issue happened it weakened the weld for the pin and it broke off! While it played heck with the wire harness from the clutch to the plug in the mower harness... it left enough I believe I can repair the wiring and reuse the clutch. It looks like I need to find a new way to attach a pin to stop the clutch from rotating tho'maybe something like I have seen on larger mowers where they have an arm going to the clutch. Anyway, as always I appreciate all the help given on this site and thought I would post this as a cautionary tale... if you have an electric pto... you have to make sure it cannot come loose!
bertsmobile1
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Re: 6 months on my new motor and its broken! UPDATE!
Sorry to hear that,
So the new engine had a few too many ponies for the hitching rail ?
A bit of heavy angle iron from a salvage yard will be the go after some artistic work with your angle / die grinder.
The rod retainers are bent then hardened to stop them bending under the hammering they get from the clutch.
I have been caught out and found out the hard way that a retainer from a small engine does not cut it on a big twin.
Well the new eng. is still running great... which explains why something had to break... the new clutch started spinning when I hit the button to enable the blades... well you can guess that it did not go well for the wires to the new clutch. At 1st I thought well crap I must not have torqued that bolt enough and it allowed the clutch to slip down and off the pin. Nope apparently when the last issue happened it weakened the weld for the pin and it broke off! While it played heck with the wire harness from the clutch to the plug in the mower harness... it left enough I believe I can repair the wiring and reuse the clutch. It looks like I need to find a new way to attach a pin to stop the clutch from rotating tho'maybe something like I have seen on larger mowers where they have an arm going to the clutch. Anyway, as always I appreciate all the help given on this site and thought I would post this as a cautionary tale... if you have an electric pto... you have to make sure it cannot come loose!
Sorry to hear that,
So the new engine had a few too many ponies for the hitching rail ?
A bit of heavy angle iron from a salvage yard will be the go after some artistic work with your angle / die grinder.
The rod retainers are bent then hardened to stop them bending under the hammering they get from the clutch.
I have been caught out and found out the hard way that a retainer from a small engine does not cut it on a big twin.
I have made clutch stops using a piece of 3/8” flat stock. Figure the length down from the frame and the amount neede to be able to bolt it to the frame in 2 spots, to keep it from twisting. Put a right angle bend at that measurement down and drill a couple of holes in the section which will be bolted to the frame. It takes a bit of mcguyvering, but it can be done and you won’t break that size stock.
Thanks for the replies, yep I will need to get creative... the old "pin" was a pin welded to a 90 degree bracket that bolted to the bottom of the eng deck. the pin just stuck down enough to engage the slot in the clutch. Pretty sure I can come up with something to fix this. And yes the vtwin seems to have much more torque if only 2 more hp. And it is much smoother. I may have to find one to replace the single cyl 11hp yamaha in my golfcart! Be fun to find a way to keep it as quiet as the current motor but still have 22 hp and buckets of torque~!