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I wouldn't even "try" to revive one that was charged in reverse. My luck would be nothing left but lug nuts on the slab LOL.

Guessing she is rusted onto the crankshaft. Two set screws are all I know about securing it on the crank. I couldn't get mine off either. There is an adjustment needs to be made. The depth of the steel drive disk TO the rubber ring, driven disk. If yours doesn't pull a hill then you need more...

Not familiar with your machine. Test the switch several times. "Guessing" it could be a normally open or closed contact??? Any mice chewing wires at your place? Inspect the harness for the blade switch.

If it was over filled, it was over filled. Drain out the excess. Don't try and run it to burn it out. Remember all that extra oil burns away and makes carbon. Carbon quickly shellacs up the cylinder and valves.

Should be able to measure the boss where the seal sits. That and the valve stem diameter. Take those to an auto parts store. At least put an umbrella type on there. Best is the positive style in the intake and umbrella on the ex. Is that red junk even viton? Probably recycled bicycle tire...

Remember, Mom was driving........ Just saying. :D

Hope you find a bad key. The next likely fix is the camshaft.

I use an air hammer and a long pry bar. Couple zips and she is free.

One can snip the after fire solenoid plunger off. Install an inline fuel shutoff valve. Close it a minute before shutting the engine down. Never have to worry about it "not" starting again.

200psi is up there. I would say it needs it. 89 octane is a bare minimum at that. Just follow the manual. Why risk it? Would suck running another fuel can just for a saw but, some of those saws ain't cheap.

Nikki strikes again. Forget it guy. A carb sitting for 3 years needs to be boiled clean several times. Even then it might not run good. I would get a Walbro replacement Chinese carb. Hate to recommend non OEM parts but a Nikki is a POS. Tried couple times with OEM Briggs parts. Never ran right...

Just resize in windoze 11 Photos app program deal. All you need is 640 x 480 for this site. Don't need hi rez stuff.

Check flywheel key.

200psi comes out to 13.6:1 static compression. That is pretty high. Aluminum block/head helps cool the cylinder. From the MS 250 manual below. Stihl recommends a minimum 89 or higher octane. "

Oh like this mower battery. Forgot about those. Duh, mower forum..... LOL

What is a flat terminal? There are top post and side post versions far as I know........

That is only during charging - BUT - better safe than stupid. Agree, pull the battery out.

Does the wrong part, fit your head?

Typically this is either a lack of fuel delivery or a weak ignition coil. Bugs and trash in the fuel tank clogging the tank outlet for example. Fuel line interior degraded causing restrictions. Weak coils can have low rpm spark then fade at mid to high revs. Won't see this without a gap type...

I was wondering if the engine heat shield has enough material for a proper ground?? Seems to be working......

Those AC's are not even close. Good find ILENGINE.

Remember to lap the head and block where the head gasket sits. 220, 400 then 800 grit wet/dry paper on the garage door window. Let the paper do all the work. Spray on some Permatex hi-tack gasket spray on the head gasket. Torque bolts in 3 steps. Should be good. Recheck the torque after a couple...

Are you working at a local Chevy dealer now? LOL Plug on the right is a leaker. Not seeing the issue with the plugs. :rolleyes:

Keep the oil ON the full mark. Not under nor over at EVERY mow. Like the old timers did it back in the day. Over filling any engine causes issues. Oil aeration, oil pump cavitation, loss of oil pressure and so on.

It's the best 2 stroke oil on the market. Even has stabilizer in it. Running it for years. Much less smoke and carbon buildup compared to Echo and Stihl oils. My Maruyama trimmer was bought in 2013. Pulled the muffler. Bore was pristine with zero scratches our gouges. Very very minimal carbon...

Chainsaws have a ton more compression than say push mowers. Some trimmers like my Commercial Maruyama need a seasoned shoulder to pull over as well.

Will suck spare change off your garage floor. And my wife's favorite outdoor rug on the patio. Right up into the deck stopping the blade LOL. Got scolded for that one (y) :D (y):eek:

Perfect. What about the rear differential? Needs some 00 grease too. Jim Jackson on youtube has many videos on these machines.

Very well could be the compression release failed. I would adjust the valves first. Probably never been adjusted since the engine left the factory.

So stay off Fleabay and Scamazon why don't you LOL. :p Start using Mouser and Digikey for example.

If he tore it all down as we see in the pics then he is capable of reaming a valve guide and tossing on a head gasket.

Guessing at it, looks like a 33" deck. Rear skinny tires look like it should be a 28 or 30" deck. That mower, that engine, are the best ever made. Your grand kids kids kids will be mowing with that. Clean her up. Turtle Wax the deck. Pull the engine shroud off. Clean the cooling fins. Use...

Running good thins morning. Thanks for fixing it guys.

Glad to hear she is slaying grass again. Nice find on the switch. Bravo!!!!

Dead bearings and such. Listen to them while spinning each one. Any growling needs replaced.

Tells me people removing them by jerking connectors side to side, side to side, rowing the boat till the connector comes off. That spreads connectors too.

Should be. Keep at it. Sounds like you are making good headway on her.

Running good so far. Keep up the good work fellas'.

Bad idea not so much. Better than it was for sure what you did. I use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. Or Flitz is great too. There are many simple metal polishes out there. Clean the bulk of the schmoo off. Little red shop rag and a dab of polish. Rub away the tarnish. Then shine up with a rag...

Gas cap vent Poor fuel delivery AT carb inlet. Dirty carb. Weak spark.

Read up on dynamic compression.

No spark Remove coil. Polish the coil mounting pads and coil where it sits on the pads. Coil needs a clean ground to make spark. Still no spark, pull kill wire off. Engine should run the tank dry if coil is good. As in it won't shutoff unless you pull a plug wire off. No spark with kill wire...

Look into this. Checked with what? Should be something in the fuel rail to loosen as to create a leak for testing fuel pump. Close to the injectors is best. Do a fuel pressure test.

Did you get this fixed?

Need your engine numbers please. LOL

Tells me engine wants more fuel. And or you have poor fuel delivery from the tank. Dirty carb, fuel lines plugged, filter if you have one is clogged and possible tank debris. Would be shocked to open a gas tank cap and see nothing but fuel. Fuel lines deteriorate internally so you can't see any...

Welcome Lower the idle speed screw.

Probably using a car compression tester on a small engine (gives you inaccurate readings) and valves are out of spec. Dynamic compression too high.

Perform valve adjustment. Load test the battery with a carbon pile tester. I see you sub'd in a car battery with no luck. Points to valves out of spec. Check and clean all grounds. Grounds are the most overlooked cable on mowers. What is the voltage AT the starter, while cranking?

Do you know what the red grease is for? It is a "sticky" version of grease. Red = sticky. As in it doesn't flow. As in it doesn't move. As in once wiped away, there is no lubrication. Worst grease on the market. What you need is the light brown/cream colored old school #2 NGLI bearing grease...