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Carbon, maybe . . . but seems more likely that if it is that old and has not been maintained that it needs a valve adjustment.

"I feel like rhe governor assembly inside the engine is bad because every time i start the mower the governor rod seems tight or stuck and I need to free it. " At that age, the oil seal on the gov shaft may be breaking down and causingit to stick. I'd go tbere before the gov itself, since if...

That would be a GX120, same basic engine as on the HR215, the GX140. Gov is easy to get out, but you do need to open the engine, if that is the case. Based on age, the seal may have just turned to goo, hanging up the rod. Good news is the sealmis on the outside . . . had mine down for rebuild...

Honda engines used to be known for soft oil rings (not sure your model). Rebuilt my 1989 GX140 several years ago for excessive oil use/smoke . . . cylinder was still within "new" spec, new rings/seals and been perfect again for at least the last 6 and still going steong . . .

10 volts on a 12 volt starter battery is dead as a doornail . . . . It should read at least 12, and 12.5 or so if fully charged. I expect that you will see the battery voltage drop to just about nothing when you feel the solenoid click. Try charging first, but a 2 volt loss often indicates a...

Yes and no. Friction will get them to turn somewhat, but under load, the blade to crankshaft coupling will slip without the key. (A solid connection vs. friction only).

Looks simply like the bolt fell out, and since (as others note), the blade assembly acts as a flywheel, it may be a cause of the no-start, or a symptom. In any case, it looks like you should be able to reattach it by replacing the one bolt, so it would seem that that would be a cheap and easy...

So, why didn't you fix the harness damage first? Seems like an obvious starting point, and it being cut concurrent to this problem seems like it would be screaming at you . . . (or did I miss something?)

I know I am a licensed pilot, and can read both Continental (Lycoming is the same) and Cessna's docs, and with both, you are told to generally avoid full RPM/throttle other than takeoff . . . and I trust them a lot more than these derps . . . (who I also note are from the eperimemtal world...

Ironically, though, cooling efficiency likely gets *worse* at higher throttle settings. Friction and combustion heat rise faster than the throttle setting (friction is square of speed), and cooling duct air resistance gets worse, as does fan efficiency, so cooling airflow gets disproportionally...

Not sure where you get this, but as a private pilot that has been flying "piston engines vith variable pitch props" that is false! The *ONLY* time you run full throttle and high rpm is takeoff! As as you get to cruise, you set a prop rpm and manifold pressure for cruise, which is well below full...

I think the confusion when an engine is at full speed, by definition, that is *NOT* idle in any way, shape, or form! I think a better choice of words may be "sputters under full speed, no load, conditions", and the confusion is not helping.

Surging, I have found, is almost always the pilot jet.

Sounds like your tipping it over caused something to get into the valve guide/stem and cause it to bind.

Not certain the intake on your equipment, but anywhere the air flows between the carb and the head - many engines have a separate manifold with a gasket at the head and carb ends.

If it's a generic replacement that is not necessarily correct for your engine (again, an issue at times with aftermarket), you may just fail over and over. I don't understand the reluctance to clean the original. It's cheap, quick, and pretty easy. Bottom line is that it is going lean under...

Clean the origimal carb and give it a try. Aftermarket parts are pretty much a crapshoot, and your new carb may be defective.

Mine would die every time ever since new if I try to slam the blade clutch in when it is cold. (Once warmed up, no or far less of a problem . . . ) I find nursing the clutch just a bit when it just starts to engage to let it rev up a bit before pushing it home helps. Yeah, I know the manual says...

Check your valve clearance as well.

The compression release being off def. explains the kick when starting - got to wonder if it has been that way for quite some time. You may get lucky and resolve both problems at the same time!

Wonderful!

That mower is solid axle, so no way the trans can drag one side and not the other. The easy mistake is getting the sides swapped, or possibly in ypur case, not getting an appropriate left and right. The shaft runs in the adjuster bearing, and the rest are in the wheels. If the cable failure is...

You can't mow at that setting! The throttle does *NOT* set speed, but rather fuel/power delivered - shaft speed is then directly related to load on the engine. So, what that means is that to avoid overspeeding, you can only set the throttle limit with no load (which is a very, very, low power...

Just fix it . . .it's too easy not to!

Honda HR215SA bought in 1989. Other than needing to rering the GXV140 last year after 30 years of use, it's been flawless, and I would buy it again in a heaetbeat. Unfortunately, Honda has cheapened/downgraded everything such that that is not an option, but I have been thinking hard about buying...

The idle *mixture* screw sets at one turn out initially (if this engine has one) - that's not the same as the idle *speed* screw.

If you push on the gov arm with it running, does it resist? Or just move easily, with the only tension being from the spring from the throttle? The gov basically pulls back against spring tension to hold back the throttle plate as speed comes up, settling at a point of equilibrium (advancing the...

Those who are taking exception to sucessful reports, such as yourself . . . "quick" is not a specific definition of time, so I was attempting to share with others how I have gotten a blade clutch to go 30+ years with minimal wear, and I'm sorry if useful information such as that offends you. The...

Note that "quick"and "slam" are not the same thing. My engagement is 1 to 1-1/2 seconds, and I consider that quick, and have a 30 year old clutch that measures close to new. If I just slam it, it has always stalled sometimes . . . YMMV . . .

The jet I am describing has no screw - it is fixed, although there is also a capped mixture screw. While I can't recall the setting at the moment, I recall setting it to the factory position, and the mower ran fine. Note also that until I replaxed the fixed plastic jet, no amount of adjustment...

I have always had to engage mine a bit slowly since new. The mower is now close to 30 years old, and I did engine work last year, and had the clutch apart, and it is still well within servicable limits. If that's excess wear from engagjng it in other than a 'slam', I can live with it!

Which color? There were both a silverish grey and a darker grey?

I had this problem on an HR215, and also tried cleaning the pilot jet to no avail. I think it shrunk due to being plastic and age - and no amount of cleaning woueld help. I replaced it, and have run flawless for close to 10 years, with no other changes or cleanings to the carb. The want a...

"a process that you will only find in third world countries.. . ." Yeah, like China . . . thanks for making my point "China: Where quality control is job *none* !" :) And the "rejects sold via a cyber shop" pretty much sums up everything folks buy from eBay/Amazon/etc. no brand, no presence...

You assume that ChinFatCo uses the same alloy and casting/machining tolerances as OEM . . . That has *GOT* to be one of the funnoest and most absurd claims I have heard in years! Pure comedy gold! By "pot metal" I was referring to whatever crap they can mix and melt today to sell some garbage...

Because the cheap ones are Chinese crap? Price an actual Honda carb, and rebuilding make almost 100% sense since it is so easy . . . Anyone that thinks that an unbranded $12 offshore hunk of bad pot metal is equivalent to OEM just ain't right upstairs, at least as I see it . . .

My HR215 with GXV140 was surging a few years back. Changed the pilot jet, and been perfect again for 5+years - seems like given enough time, the plastic jets swell closed and forces it lean. Personally, II have *never* found a carb that could not be brought back to 100% (or darn close) in short...

In the pic to the far left, I think I see a crack at the second bend in (first bend coming from the gov shaft) which is why I suggested you look. Between the small shot and the dirt, I just can't be certain. Sure looks like the tear I would expect from being bent in the direction it was, though...

Looks like the gov arm got derped to me and bent. Does not explain choke issues, but certainly does explain the incorrect speed . . . The balance between the gov and those springs determines RPM, and it's bent, that's way off. Canle the crap off where the gov shaft exits the block at the bottom...

Start here, even if they would not be the vendor of your choice to purchse: https://www.planopower.com/oem-parts select "Honda", "Lawnmower", and then (based on your info), HR-214SXA#1, and then "Piston" and check the engine serial number range for the parts against your block. Note that *every*...

Correct - the 3pc is much better, and I believe that Honda has updated all thier parts to that style. While the specific model # is best, when I was work8ng on my GXV140, I found that all variants are currently using ths same part number, so not sure if there is a difference on the GXV120 . . ...

And he would not necessarily have been wrong! You *DO* get more power! The problem is that itsets things on fire . . .:-) :-)

Look at it this way: No matter what the engine, you now have one less task to fear! As I said going in, it isn't too bad, but you do have to work through it once to be confident!

Glad to hear that you got it done!

Very happy! Basically, it's new again- zero smoke, stronger, and always a 1 pull start. As noted, I measured everything, and all I did other than the light hone and rings were seals, gaskets, and added the intake valve stem seal that Honda added in later engines (mine is a 140 though, but I...

That's what my 140 was doing . . . . deglaze/ring/seals, and run it (unless you find something else). The sleeve in these Hondas seem to hold up quite well.

I got rings from my Honda dealer, and got the new style. (3 pc oil ring as opposed to the old style 1 pc cast iron oil ring . . .)

Reuse any and everything that is within service specs . . . might just need rings and a light deglaze/hone, but wom't know until you measure it. Considering age, I would def. replace all seals though . . . My GXV140 were so dry, aged, and shrunken they they pretty much fell out . . . and the 140...

No need - it was not scuffed, and fully in spec. I changed all oil seals, rings, and did a light hone - everything else met specs as it was. Compression was good, and valves looked good as well, so also left those. Oh, and I did add the rubber intake valve stem seal that was added to later...

Thanks!