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You are still walking toward the fumes. Unless they really bother you don't worry about it, your face is well away from the fumes.

It already has an automatic compression release. Start by cleaning and tightening the battery cable connections, if no joy check the valve clearances.

Did you install OEM belts

The compression release may have failed, it is a common problem on that series. The replacement cam shaft is an improved design

Did you look on MTD Canada? It was sold by Canadian Tire. Hint, leave off the 515 when searching.

If the dealers don't want to match the price that is up to them. Maybe they can't.

The tag on the dipstick tube didn't tip him off? We had a mower come in with a trashed engine in the third season, customer had purchased Opti-4 and was demanding warranty. He had 5 bottles with him, when asked why he had not changed the oil nobody told him he had to. He was quite irate and was...

That gets entertaining! I had a customer wanting warranty to cover the neighbors window. Uh NO!! The mower manufacturer didn't leave the rock on your lawn dummkopf.

Check the blade and clutch interlock switches. Starters don't usually quit so suddenly.

If they fit which I doubt they will make a real mess of a wet lawn.

If the model number is the same there is no difference. They may make some minor changes to satisfy the box store marketing types but the model number will be changed.

Depends on the market in your area. Check the local buy and sell as well as craigslist. The only way to get a softer ride on any rider is lower the tire pressure unless you get into a higher end z turm.

Remove the spark plug, tie the bail down then with the mower tipped (carburetor on the high side) turn the blade. If it is stiff either the brake is not releasing or there is an internal problem.

It also has to stay suspended in the gas and burn clean. There are a lot of demands on 2 stroke oil.

The numbers you gave us are meaningless for our purposes. Rivets is referring to the model, type, and code stamped into a valve cover above the spark plug.

X2 All the best in your new endeavor. You will have to work hard to establish your customer base, you are starting out well into the season. Heed Tom's advise, do not carry receivables. They will kill you.

The only armature that will work on your cast iron engine is p/n 298968. For reasons unknown to me the aluminum engines have the flywheel polarity reversed so 398811 is not compatible. The factory did offer a free polarity change but the customer was responsible for shipping and handling.

As mentioned blades will not hold a razor edge for long so it is really a waste of time unless the customer insists and is willing to pay for it. The manufaccturers could use harder steel but it would shatter on impact which would make a mess and be a severe safety hazard.

The module could be bad, replace it if suspect.

Those shielded spark plug terminals are a royal pita, some bright light decided they needed to supress radio interference. Use it for a doorstop and install the wire clip and rubber boot.

If the governor has failed the engine will scream until it self destructs assuming the spring is correctly installed. Something is not right here.

If I recall correctly it was around 1983.

Sounds like it might be too rich. Is the throttle wide open when it tries to rev up? The air bleed holes in the brass emulsion tube may be plugged.

Any of the brands you listed will serve you well, they are designed for commercial use. Rather than get caught up in color or make concentrate on finding a dealer with a solid reputation for service. He will be your best friend. We have a couple in our area that although they have well...

You won't find it on any ipl because it is part of the carburetor body, it is not supposed to come out.

The EPA hath decreed thou shalt not mess with thy carburetor. Only the equipment manufacturer is allowed to to have the tool for final adjustments so you will have to be crearive.

Is the blade installed?

By exhaust valve retainer are you referring to the seat (ring) it sits on? That indicates severe overheating. It can be staked into place with a flat punch but if that doesn't hold the block is junk.

Probably from the mid to late 1980's. One of the best mowers ever built.

Jacobsen has been out of the consumer market since the late 80's. If that is a reel mower and I assume it is good luck finding anything for it.

I use a welding tip cleaner. A drill bit will work turned with the fingers but go easy, don't remove metal.

It is a mower part, look under that number.

We had to disassemble and clean the carburetor on every XT engine we brought in, they were clogged with corrosion inhibitor. Some would not clean up and had to be replaced.

Snug isn't good enough, it has to be tightened to spec. Ever seen what happens when a blade spinning at 3,000 rpm departs?

Spark plug won't cause that

How many young people even know what clockwise and counter clockwise mean? They have never seen a sweep hand clock lol

Read the manual. 99% are right hand thread, righty tighty lefty loosy, but I have seen mower blades that rotate in the opposite direction.

Lol. I loved the sound and smell of my first mower, a mid 60's with the D-400 engine. I got it with a toasted piston, it was up and running in an hour or so and served me well for years.

Just a matter of removing a bolt or nut, impact wrench works best here, and replacing the blade. Do torque the new blade to factory specs, don't use a crescent wrench or pipe slipped over an HF open end and ensure the sail faces up. I've lost count of the number of blades I have seen installed...

I tried mulching with my old HR214, wasn't particularly impressed with the results but that thing was a bagging fool! The catcher was packed solid and no clippings left behind. I have also tried the Toro Super Recycler, great mulcher under the right conditions but marginal bagger. In my...

They are all good but dealer service is more important than brand. Are the people friendly and knowledgeable? Do they have a neat wwell equipped service area and a well stocked parts room? Or would you wait two days while they order a belt or oil filter? As far as engines go, the one in your...

I guess you are not taking your bride out to dinner.

You may need to rmove the throtlle control plate, two bolts.

There is a fourth bolt hidden behind behind the throttle control plate under the carburetor

.004"-.006" on both

Hold your finger on the throttle, if it smooths out the governor is set incorrectly. If it stumbles and dies it is not getting enough fuel. It may be over revving which will starve it for fuel.

Does the red wire end in a bullet connector? If so it should have the diode. Maybe it has been cut off, you then need to add the diode which is available at an electronics supplier. The other option is replacing the alternator which gets expensive. Give us the engine numbers so we can see what...

You may have broken the blade adapter and taken out the flywheel key. Take the blade off and try rocking the shaft with a pair of vise grips, if it still clunks get the credit card out.

Either the cable is out of adjustment, possibly stretched, or the stop switch has failed.

The OEM replacement is p/n 594593. They are not cheap but I don't have a lot of confidence in cheap aftermarket carbs.