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An engine with 1200 hours that doesn’t smoke or burn oil, has likely been well taken care of. I wouldn’t suspect is as being worn out. Based on your comments, there could be a restriction in the muffler. Or, my attention would turn to the governor. It may have some wear to a component...

The carburetor shaft being worn would likely cause enough of an air leak for the need to apply full choke to enrichen the air/fuel mixture.

First of all, it is normal to have to choke an engine, even hot, with a carburetor that has a fuel solenoid. Has this engine ever had any valve maintenance? Meaning, cleaning the valves, reaming the guides, decarboning, etc.

Yes, the governor spring can stay installed while adjusting. The governor isn't pulling back; it is pushing out. It is the governor spring that is pulling back against the centrifugal force of the governor. If the spring is too strong, this will reduce the RPMs. If the engine is steady at 3450...

A weak governor spring, damaged linkage or control panel, something in the wrong location. If it’s none of that, live with 3550. Governed engine don’t maintain a consistent rpm anyway, 50 rpm isn’t even noticeable.

Don’t waste your time. If the engine otherwise runs smoothly, valve lash will not increase rpm.

Exceeding 3600 rpm will not cause internal engine damage. You can run the engine without the governor and will float the valves at around 4200. Ask anyone racing lawnmowers. They modify the valve train and are running 6000-7000rpm easily with stock internal components. These engines are very...

The high idle spec for this engine is 3600 +/- 100. I am thinking that when you are adjusting the governor, you are using the throttle control lever to achieve WOT. Try this: Loosen the black left-hand bolt in the center of the governor link Have someone hold the throttle shaft in the WOT...

What is the spec code of your FS651V? It may have a lower governed high idle spec. Having the throttle at the rabbit position is not WOT. The only time a governed engine achieves WOT is when the engine is under full load.

It means that there is a failed diode in one coil. If for example, the number one coil has a failed diode, coil number 2 will not have spark. The diode, being a one-way check valve, if failed will allow the opposite coil to find a path to ground through the failed diode. In your example, if...

Sorry, this is false. A failed diode on one coil would cause the opposite coil to show as failed. Two failed diodes would cause the coils to not be able to be grounded through the key switch.

It is not likely to loose both ignition coils at once. If one is lost the engine would continue to run unless potentially it is under heavy load. My thought is either losing power to the fuel solenoid or it is something in the safety system on the mower. Still, the surge when disengaging the PTO...

When the engine is surging, slowly apply the choke. If the engine begins to smooth out then I would start with cleaning the card. There is likely no reason to replace the carb if the engine otherwise runs well.

Use a tachometer to see what rpm the engine is running at high idle. Toro’s spec is 3800 rpm. What do the rpm’s jump to when it increases for 10-15 seconds? If it is above the high idle rpm, it is possible that the engine was overheated and the heat damaged the ball guide if the governor assembly.

The NGK and Champion plugs listed are not the same. Physically, yes. Performance, no. Research it. It is always best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends.

Agree with @Auto Doc's, replace them if you are in question.

No, these plugs look typical for the most part. Overheated, if anything, not rich. Rich running would be dark black soot (unburned fuel), all over the porcelain and threads, that could be wiped off.

This would be the case for all engine models except FR, FS, and FX. Kits are available for these models only.

Kawasaki does offer kits for current engine models FX, FS and FR models. The part number you would need for FS is 11028-6316.

I read that the video was not your mower. I apologize for assuming that you were having a similar issue.

The governor bolt was stripped because it has left-handed thread. The person who tried to loosen it turned it the wrong way. Very common error. The governor's ball guide is likely damaged, which is why the RPMs are creeping. Two pins on the back of the guide keep the guide at the same speed as...

The gaskets are installed dry from the factory. No need for sealant,

No igniter.

FD731VAS09 was actually on Bad Boy mowers

I appreciate that, sir.

Absolutely sure. This unneeded element is inside the crankcase. Its purpose was to help separate air and oil droplets, keeping the oil in the engine while letting the air out of the crankcase. Has nothing to do with the engines outside environment.

Can a coil fail? Sure. It is common for both coils to fail, not likely. That is why I suggested removing the ground wire from both coils to see if either has spark.

The coils are best tested for spark while on the engine. You can use a running (lightbulb) spark tester easily to see if the coils are doing anything. A gap-type tester (pictured) is best for loading the coil. The SE line is for "small engine" or about 1/4" gap. Don't hook the ground wire to the...

Glad I could help.

The black oil may be temporarily ok as long as the oil level is not over full. You may smell fuel out the exhaust as at operating temp, some of those hydrocarbons will burn off.

The only thing I do know about aftermarket carburetors is that usually they don't work well. What is the problem with the original carburetor? The Nikki carburetor has transition ports that provide enough fuel during the transition from low to high idle. Maybe the aftermarket carburetor does not...

So at high idle under load is sounds good? WOT on a governed engine is when the engine is under heavy load and losing RPM. If the engine runs fine with the PTO engaged, then the idle jet likely is incorrect for this engine or debris in the idle circuit. The engine has no purpose at mid-throttle...

When it is surging, if you slowly apply the choke, does it tend to want to smooth out? How does it run at full throttle?

Great job finding that. I have heard of those pests causing issues before. Glad you got it fixed up. Thank you for reporting back.

Where are you measuring the DC output? If at the B+ terminal of the regulator, then you should have at least battery voltage. Do you even have power to the regulator?

The breather filter is not necessary and should be discarded if you get in there.

Pressure release from the crankcase when the engine is stopped? If so, the crankcase may not be venting through the breather system. The reed valve might be stuck. This would prevent fuel pump operation resulting in not being able to keep the engine running. Black oil is caused by blow-by of...

Likely the compression release might be hanging up or the valves need to be adjusted. The compression release mechanism is on the camshaft. Typically they are no issue but there is a spring that may be damaged or some other issue due to wear and tear over the years.

If you have over 100psi compression, that is fine. It appears that the valve guide has slid due to the cylinder being overheated. Both heads should look the same. The loosening of the rocker bracket bolt is also likely heat related. This could cause a bent push rod but would not contribute to...

The proper thing to do is to remove the fan housing/fuel tank. There is an o-ring at the top of the intake pipe. If it is compromised by pulling the intake pipe away to slip the carburetor back in, you could possibly get dirt ingestion. Also would be a good time to inspect and replace the...

There are no short blocks for FH601D (air cooled) or FD620D (liquid cooled) available directly from Kawasaki.

Unfortunately, there is no fix. An extremely talented machinist would argue that they could repair this, but it is not worth the effort. A replacement crankcase or replacement engine would be the best option.

If you can buy a carburetor for less than the cost of a float valve, $18, I would be leery. Also, there is no FS548V engine. FS541V maybe?

Check the short pulse line to the fuel pump. If there is evidence of fuel in the tube, the diaphragm is ruptured. Otherwise replace the float valve. No need to replace the carburetor.

A FH430V S04 would have had a carb solenoid originally.

Kawasaki does not have carburetor kits for FH model engines. Most parts are sold Individually. Some may be a 5 pack.

11060-7008 is the correct gasket. No orings, no sealant. @StarTech is correct that the gasket is also a shim and must be used. Also, don't forget the washer that sits on the snap ring at the end of the camshaft.

There is not pressurized oil to the valve train. This area relies on splash or windage lubrication.

Thank you for being a helpful neighbor! When was the last time this engine has run well? This is a Husqvarna lawn tractor application? Based on what you wrote, the carburetor likely needs a good cleaning. The intake valves might also be gummed up from the fuel not being fresh for who knows how...