Search results

Thanks StarTech I'm intimate with head gaskets blowing through as I own a 31 ci intek! But didn't really give it a thought as I didn't think these were susceptible but will see how the compression looks just in case. I couldn't believe the racket the valves were making at 80 hours, when 160 came...

Thanks Tiger Small Engine Yes I'll investigate further before I consider rings, valve stem seals, oil rings, crankcase reed are a few things that come to mind. Whilst they recommend 300 hours, the rattle was that bad at 80 hours I couldn't stand it, amazingly quiet after setting them, at 160...

Torque/power curves here

726cc FR691V (651/691/730 FR/FS/FX) uses oil, anybody done a quick ring change and got away with it? Only 240 hours, not particularly happy about it, have needed to adjust the valves every 80 hours to stop them rattling their heads off. I'd like to think I could get away with a set of rings, but...

I have an FR691, FR and FS series have a single barrel carby, the FX series come with a two barrel carby with dual stage canister air cleaner. The 651, 691, 730 are all 726CC engines, roughly 21.5, 23 & 24hp in the FR series, the FX has a slight reduction in hp. Quite a few years ago I searched...

Put em the lathe and run a boring bar through them!

Lots to consider depending on your use and thickness of your wallet, most is personal choice. Bigger diameter wheels slightly smooth out bumps in rough ground, but in the scheme of things may not be particularly noticeable, 2800 and 3100 both have external oil filters for ease of maintenance. BB...

I know it's advisable and necessary to use OEM parts in certain situations, and I'm not knocking the use of, but those B & S prices are criminal (like most OEM products LOL)!

Can't see it myself, which ones exactly, folks need to know if this is "actually" the case?

Nah, I think SpaceX has that covered. Good job on the install!

My 800mm lift floor jack does the job for what I need but at $80 it would sure make things easy for some folks.

Great, I'm sure someone down the track will get some good mileage out of that!

It's always nice for the OP to come back with a resolution to the question so when others in years to come search one of these engines/scenarios they glean some info, what was the outcome of shaft sizes and compatibility?

Yeah I need a better air cleaner

Yep, three shots should do it! LOL!

ROFLMAO!

Tight as a fishes...., they are just wearing, can't unhear rattling. Only have 190 or so hours, started ticking at ~50, 130, too noisy at 80 & 160 to leave. You'll be doing yours at 160 probably, now that you've done them at 75! On another subject, IIRC, the only difference between the 651 and...

Yep that'll stop the engine overheating from poor airflow for sure!

100% it's not, he has stated it has great spark!

Turning the fuel off and running it out of fuel lowers the fuel level so the main jet isn't sitting in fuel for 12 months at a time for the varnish to deposit. Turning the fuel off stops the fuel from continuously topping up for 12 months as the fuel slowly evaporates leaving the...

Get your carby jet cleaners out and clean the main jet as well as others. When you put the genset away ensure you turn the fuel off and run it out of fuel so varnish can't build up in the carby.

Or FEL or blade if you have use for either.

No tacho suggestions, but other possible fix. Your choice entirely, but cutting "really heavy grass while running a mulch kit" will always be a challenge if the cuttings can't clear the deck. But instead of adding a tacho, consider fixing the cause, not the symptom, consider cutting without...

Try the starters with jumper cables to your pickup or car that has a known powerful battery as yours may be failing under load. Check battery connections, solenoid and ground connection. Make sure the ring gear is square to the flywheel, no run out, all the way around. Check starters for...

Post # 2 tells you it's an ignitor/igniter, post #6 links a web page with the parts diagram for your model showing the ignitor/igniter and part number for the igniter, post # 10 recommends you view post # 2 & Post # 6, Post # 13 shows the image from post #6 with the part circled. Which part are...

EDIT: As noted above whilst I was on the phone! Disconnect the oil pressure or level sensor and see if it continues to run

....

Quite likely eh?

Try reading post #2 and post #6, your answers are there, then look online for one.

Nice!

A tip cleaner is a fixed size, designed to clean out a cylindrical component, a tooth pic doesn't get in and clean the walls of the cylinder, it just chamfers the opening as you try to force the bigger sized log into the small hole. If you have time and money, order/buy new jets, or a whole new...

Get a set of oxy/acet welding tip cleaners, and run them through the main jet particularly, a tiny layer of varnish builds on the inside of the jets reducing its diameter and reduces fuel flow, you can see through the jets and they look clear but are slightly diminished in diameter due to build...

Your engine needs full fuel flow under load so you can't tune it down to 4000, because at 4000, and up to 4000 you have varying loads. If you don't want to run a governor, add an electronic rev limiter or you will end up over revving it and doing damage eventually, but of course, your call. Good...

Also check water in oil in pump, as that says problem in pump, as soon as you turn on water, pump possibly hydraulically locks and stalls motor. Check pump pressure relief valve, if it has adjustable one, wind it off for a start to ensure it relieves.

Unfortunately a lot of problems are over diagnosed and some basics are missed, it happens, I just hope that the spares you now have will fix the next problem you get in 5 years time! And whilst you should only use CRC belt grip ( or others) for diagnosis, not a fix it all, it is a good product...

Parked running, now won't start. Safety switch or fuel 99% of time, varnish in carb, water or gunk in carb, crap fuel, electric clutch switch, brake or seat switch, less than 1% chance of timing fault.

As soon as you hear a miss or backfire, jump off and pull a plug lead off and see which cylinder is failing. Definitely remove housing and ensure coils have no debris around them and all fins/air pathways are clear, including inlet screen plugging caused by grass etc while running

I have a 691 on a Toro zero turn, have been disappointed at having to adjust the rattling valve rockers every 80 hours

Do you have one? The parts list I previously found shows one, however many coils, especially later and after market have ignitor built into coil. As previously mentioned, disconnect all wires from coil and see if you get spark...

Ignitor module, sans points

What model number is it?

From what I see the valves are in a V, meaning an angle to the head and each other, not flat across the face

I have a Toro MX5060, same brake module I expect, extremely expensive, mine was full of dust when I pulled it apart, got it to function again probably 80 hours ago, is was well worn internally, playing up again, I like the sound of the manual operation of the Swisher 60, will have to look into that.

Bloody great outcome Dixie!

Mine was a couple years later, but I think the center cap popped out of the wheel to get at the bolt. And I think the gas tank came out, put your model in one of the online parts lookup places and you will be able to see the parts layout which should help.

I note some things I would do, but from a safety aspect, you should refrain from the following and allow a professional to do your repairs. From your first post, it appears everything was basically good, except that the mower stopped, get back to original and check one thing at a time.It appears...

All depends on how much you want to spend, and how much you have to mow, if you have 5 acres or more, personally I would get something with external oil filters on the transmissions, slightly heavier/more commercial units, also a fabricated deck if you have anything but lawn.

ZT2800 plus fabricated deck, BONUS!

I know nothing about this system. I'll have a guess that the pressure/vacuum sensor is not sending a signal to the ECU, therefore fuel won't be supplied, once you spray starter fluid in, it fires, the speed increases enough to make the vacuum sensor work enough and fuel is then supplied. Check...

My cousin had a problem with his flashers/indicators on his VW the other day, I told him to pull every fuse, meter test them, and fully reseat. I looked online, found a wiring diagram and told him to start with fuse 16, he did that one all was good again.