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FINALLY, I have some good news. My mower is back, full power on both sides. What did I do? The last move I made was to take the t-rod all the way out of the pump. I loosened the frame it is connected to so I could see better inside the pump. And when I went to screw it back in, I made sure I was...

I never have had a leak that’s what’s so frustrating. How backing that T Rod out caused all this damage is beyond me.

Here are pics of: 1. The t-Rod. I removed it entirely. 2. The opening where the t-Rod came from. I don’t know if it helps but in case somebody’s wondering there it is. Thx!

Thanks RevB! Here are today’s updates. The JD dealer recommended 20W-50 oil. And I filled up to the top fill line. Went through the purge procedures for roughly 30 minutes. Both wheels will turn with the control arms with the bypass valve (T-rods) wide open. I would have thought just the...

I think, and I’m way out over my skis here, I read about an oil filter for the hydraulic pump. This pic is of an oil filter in the same location as whatever manual I read said it would be in. But, I am new to all of this. I’ve read and watched so much it all kinda runs together. Forgive me if...

Gosh, a plethora of information. First, the video showed the wheels not turning when the bypass valve is open. My wheels are turning even after I've turned the t-rod twice. I'm guessing I need to turn the t-rod more times?!? I attempted to purge this afternoon for at least 45 minutes. No luck...

And that last reply should have posted yesterday. I failed to hit Post Reply. Daggonit. Update. So i tried again to bleed the air out. I opened the valve 2 full turns, started at low throttle, half throttle and full throttle, fowards and backwards. I didn't do it fifteen times each. I probably...

Correct..you did tell me and JD told me and neither worked!! That's why I requested additional detail. I'm quite sure you are both correct. The problem is on my end, I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I TRULY appreciate the additional detail. I'm praying it works. Will advise ASAP.

Update. I contacted my John Deere dealer in my area and the gentleman that I spoke to had a similar situation with his personal mower. Identical symptoms. He recommended, which worked for him, removing the t-rod completely and remove, inspect, and/or replace the O-ring. Then, purge the air, etc...

Bob372 I'm not sure. I'll take another picture to help clarify what's going on there.

Is it OK too run that T Rod all the way out again? I’m guessing I don’t really have anything to lose since it’s not working. I appreciate the detail!

When you write, "working it back and forth" I'm not sure what exactly I need to work back and forth?? Sorry to be so dense.

Thank you for getting back to me. When you say work it back-and-forth, do you mean the control arm? Heavenly the control of the armies are that I use to steer and propel the mower, right? I have had it out in the yard trying to work it out, pushing it forward backwards. Something just isn’t...

Did the pictures help??

My ignorance of the correct terms is apparent. I hope these pics help. JD2 is the ID of the mower. The middle pic is THE object I turned. If sitting on the mower, it's on the right side of the Tuff Torq hydraulic "pump"? I've jacked the mower up and the control arm on the right is able to move...

I was working on my 2007 John Deere Z425 this week and really screwed up. I had the machine in free roll and went to tighten the bypass valve rods and turned the one on the right the wrong way. I didn't recognize the mistake until the rod was about to come off in my hand. I reversed course...