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well, replaced headgasket with another brand new one... did leakdown test... now @ 100psi in... 70psi holding in cylinder. so a 30% loss, 10% worse than it was before...

thought I would post some pics of the end result of what I said in my previous post. i also included a close up of the head between cylinder and rod passageway where it was leaking during leak down test. maybe someone sees something that I dont for the reason of the compression leak. PS: I also...

ok... after disassembly i re-lapped the valves again... just to make sure. then cleaning everything down with brake and carb cleaner. I reinstalled valves. Using my thumb on face of valves, the exhaust valve I can turn it a bit. but I cant turn the intake valve. but nothing has any oil on it...

QUESTION: I know on a car, you should never be able to spin/turn the valves in the head by hand. But what about in a briggs engine? with the valves installed in the head, I can apply a little pressure with my fingers to the "face" of the valve and turn it. is this normal for a mower engine? Or...

its looks perfect... but you're right it still may just be a bad gasket. I'll take your advice and try another gasket, one last time.

Alright... Here's the "update"... today I removed the valve cover, then removed the rocker arms and rods. This eliminates it being the valves being adjusted wrong (which they still might have been off a bit), then after doing this I performed another leak down test. 100psi in, once again about...

Good points. As far as the valve being adjusted to tight, I know I did have a time with getting them set, at least to my satisfaction. With that said, both valve rocker arms were loose before I began to adjusting them. If the valve was bent, I certainly couldn't tell it after I inspected them or...

Yep, already got a new filter and pre filter foam screen

yep, checked oil level when engine cold and it was at full mark. Checked again when it was hot, it was over full. But then checked it again later after engine cold, and it was back down to the full mark. And yes I always clean the dipstick off first :) I looked at the oil and smelled of it, but...

Thanks for the replies and info guys, will take all into account :) ? Here is my Update: Over the last several days when I had a few min, I made a leak down tester. So this morning with the engine cold, put the engine to TDC, placed vice grips on the crankshaft against the frame so the engine...

As I said in previous posts, my Dad bought this mower from his nephew who bought it from an auction.... We ran it for a couple seasons, but there always seemed to be something I had to fix all the time to keep it running. Fast forward, I basically have rebuilt the entire mower. Including a...

yep, as I said that in some previous posts, I thought about that at one point. But the oil isn't being thinned down, don't see or smell any fuel in the oil either.

no offense taken ?, carb bodies are something else to clean sometimes with all the tiny passages and such, and it does take a good amount of time to clean and rebuild them. Smaller the carb the worse they are. But have been using an ultrasonic cleaner in recent years, which does help a lot...

Fully agree about the ethanol and the EPA garbage. I wish the carbs were adjustable again... what the stupid EPA has forced to be done to them is as stupid as the new "no spill" fuel cans... along with many other things. As far as ethanol goes, I don't buy ethanol fuel just for some of the...

ok, i'll try to see if there is a way to re-run the line. the carb and choke rods are in the way. ignition module, possible. hadn't thought about that either. its mounted on a "plate" via one of the starter bolts.

its not switches nor kill wire. starts and runs when cold, continues to run when hot. After its hot, if you turn off engine for 5 minutes, it won't Re-Start.

Yep, no hard turn over or anything. It just cranks and cranks, but doesn't even try to hit. When cold, it starts and runs fine... until you turn it off for 5 min. Before I re-adjusted the valves it had a very noticeable amount of power loss under load, but after the last adjustment power is...

Ok, a bit of an update. I looked at the vacuum line today and about 1.5 to 2 inches of it was filled with oil (see first photo attached). ILENGINE & Born2Mow both of you said oil in the line may be normal. So I figured ok, lets not drain the line and leave the oil there and try to start it and...

Its the type of line often used on trimmers, chainsaw, etc. They just use a much smaller size. In any case, I know there may be oil vapor/residue in the line. But I think I'm getting so much oil in the line that it is slowing the vacuum to the fuel pump. With the engine off, there is about 1" of...

I've rebuilt car engines and such, so I understand the procedures. I also did a bit of research on the differences for a small engine as well. I just wasn't going to go have it bored out if it was off. But I should have measured it to see how far out of spec it was, as if it was too far then I...

Hi all thanks for the replies. Didn't get any emails that anyone had replied. Anyway, try to answer everyone: I'm not sure how oil is the line is normal, I thought that is what the crank case breather was supposed to stop? Also if there is enough oil to block the line wouldn't that stop, or at...

Hey all, first time poster. My Dad has a Dixon 4515B ZTR mower that he got from his nephew... yeah its about 20 years old, I believe it to be a 2000 model It has a Vanguard 15.5hp OHV engine #28Q777-0691-E1 (photo attached) It all started... thats how most projects begin right :confused...