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Replaced the fuse behind the kick panel, soldered up the wires, added shrink wrap and tested battery voltage while running; 14.1. Consider it a success. Thanks to all who helped.

...and why does the diagram show a diode instead of a VR.

...and 2 steps back. I removed the diode, soldered the connection back on to test the battery voltage under load, the engine ran for 3 seconds then shut off. I saw that the bare wires I soldered grounded out on the oil drain pipe, so I moved the wires, and now the mower won't even turn over...

Yes. Thanks. I still don’t understand why only 8v is being output from the regulator when the diode wire is disconnected.

So there's a diode under the shrink wrap? OK, should it just be cut out and wires connected back together. And I will move wires apart.

I'm getting 34v ac on the yellow wire coming from the engine, and 8.3v dc on red wire coming out of the new VR. Should it be getting 12v dc output or higher.

Yes, the two connectors are for the new VR. The top one is a solid connection. As noted above, one of the wires came with a bare metal female part with rubber outer cover. It plugged into the existing wire but the outer covering doesn't cover the existing connection. The old VR had correct...

no. the new VR didn't come with an outer connector, just a bare metal piece that plugs into the existing wire and the rubbery outer casing.

Thanks. The other end of the grey wire is mounted to the engine, so it grounds the VR. I switched it to the backside of the VR where there's more metal, but battery is still not charging.

The old voltage regulator had this grey wire connected to the center mounting screw of the regulator, so I re-connected there when I replaced the regulator. It appears to be a wire coming from the ignition coil, acting as a ground wire for the voltage regulator. The regulator is mounted to...

I've got a used Murray with a model 31R907, type 0007 G1 B&S that won't charge the battery. The new battery was used a few time to mow the yard and showing 12.5v sitting, and 12.3 with engine running. I replaced the voltage regulator but there's been no increase in voltage with engine running...

Just an update. In my months long journey to repair the mower it turned out to be a broken push rod on the exhaust side. Actually, it was broken. I suspect it bent the first day the mower shut down but after all my attempts to start the engine, the rod finally broke. The OEM rod is made of...

I've been trying, unsuccessfully, to diagnose the no-start issue with my mower; Murray 425009x8A with B&S 31R907-0007-G1 engine. It died while I was mowing. The flywheel spins and I can get it to run at 1/4 power for a second or two. I've been assuming that a bad switch would be like...

Thanks for posting the diagram. My seat switch has 3 yellow wires. Two are connected as shown in the diagram. I’m not sure where the third one goes. Also, I disconnected the “main” yellow wire near the solenoid to bypass the **** off switches, but still couldn’t get it to fire.

I found the fuse. Removed all the grass from the connection and replaced with another one but wasn’t even turning over. So old fuse replaced and taped up good. Motor turns, so fuse isn’t the issue.

The purpose of placing the mower and engine model numbers in my signature was to make it easier for everyone to see and it would show up on ever post, not just the first one.

Yes. New gaskets installed on jet, top of plastic carb inner and main seal for bowl. Jet is clear as is throat tube. Used lots of gumout. Installed new plug this afternoon even though I saw spark with old plug. Found an unplugged wire under seat shutoff but nowhere to attach. Posted about it...

Model number in my signature

Found this loose wire under the seat of a Murray 425009x8A riding mower. I'm hoping it's the reason I can't get the B&S motor started. Don't see any other loose ends, and can't understand the wiring diagram. Thanks. Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

Been trying to get a B&S started. Found this loose yellow wire under the seat but don't see another end to plug it in. I can't figure out anything from looking at the wiring diagram. Also, where's the fuse hidden on a murray Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

The saga continues. New carb gaskets installed, now carb is no longer leaking. Still can't get engine to start. It ran briefly with choke engaged but was only a "half-assed" attempt and shut off immediately when throttle put in run position. I don't know what to check next. To recap: carb...

OK, found a video that showing how the auto choke linkage floats in the slot. Gapped the plugged. It was way tight. Checked spark and magneto. Getting good spark. Backfired when tried to start, then started at half power for a couple rotations, but won't stay running. Gas running out of...

The solenoid was a little sticky, so gunked it clean. It responds well now. Uhhh, how does the "slide trombone" linkage connect to the flat plate with the hole. Did I lose a spring.

Trying to figure out why the mower won't start. It's getting spark. Looking into carb and noticed the unfilled hole on and the small black piece I'm pointing to. Is something missing or broken. I've got a parts manual but no real good drawing showing linkages. B&S 31R907 0007 G1 code...

Bought a used Murray with a B&S motor, 31R907 0007 G1 140924ZD about 2 months ago for use at my home. It started every week with no issues until yesterday when it cut off after about 5 minutes of mowing. The gas is good and flowing to the carburetor. I did see a spark at the plug once, but...

It's alive. All I did was squirt some wd40 in the connection and let it sit overnight. It must have gotten wet with al the rain.

Wasn't getting any indication the solenoid was operating with power to it so I pulled the carb for visual, and to clean out the carb of ay water. Confirmed that solenoid will work with alternate power supply so will check wiring another day. Cleaned the solenoid ground wire too.

Thanks. engine model is on my signature block. I rebuilt the carb a year or two ago.

Haven't had an issue with the mower all season until the drive belt broke a few weeks ago. It sat under covred roof, but open-sided porch for a couple of weeks until the rains from Ian passed by. Replaced the drive belt today, but couldn't get it fire up. It would crank and run monentarily if...

Rivet concluded the bearings were worn and apparently the cause of the problem. At the time, I concluded that the pulleys were turning freely, not binding, not wobbling, and were not the cause of the heated belt. From your explaination above, I now understand why the pulleys aren't suppose to...

The OP made an attempt to loosen one of the idlers when it was removed, but couldn't figure out how to tighten once it was installed. So he squeezed the belt between the two with idler installed.

There was a time yesterday when I wanted to strap the mower to a very large trebuchet and watch it FLY!

Wow. Sorry you're out of work for awhile. This may cheer you up. I'm a bonehead. Took off 2 hrs this afternoon because I was already sweaty. Dropped the idler set to check belt alignment and noticed it was outside one of the guide posts. Put it where it suppose to be. That solved 90% of...

Thanks for all the suggestions. I do have a manual. I referred to the manual 5 yrs ago when I replaced both drive belts and last week when I replaced the front belt. I work for aliving, so might be the weekend before I can can try any suggestions.

Removed the idler and bent up the L-guide so belt doesn't rub. Test drove, but drive belt getting hot, smoking. I think it's an issue with the double idlers. I had to really force the belt between the two pulleys when installing. Or maybe the belt is just too thick/wide like someone said earlier.

Good call. The top of the idler is worn. I never imagined it was worn so much. With a new idler, woudn't the belt still rub against the bottom of the L-bar.

What do you mean, the guide should be at a 90 degree angle? 90 degrees from what? Seems like it is as shown in manual, no?

Double-checked the alignment at the steering. Top of belt rubs against the bottom of L-guide. Would that cause it? Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

The pulleys began whisling because they were spinning about 5000rpm. bearings are good.

The belt is spec. Guides are on the outside. Idlers spin fast enought to whistle while compressed air is blown over them. Belt S's through the idler. Had to really squeeze the belt between idler pulleys. Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

Murray 465306x8B

Installed a new oem drive belt today and notice it smelled during initial test drive. Extemely hot to the touch. When replacing I noticed one of the belt guides was worn. This belt is much thicker than old after-market belt. Guides aren't bent. I rotated the worn guide , but still belt gets...

I've got an old 22hp Murry with BS 2-cyl motor that I resurrected 5 yrs ago. Spent too many weekends this year working on it. I guess it's time for a new or slightly used mower. What brand/model is dependable and easy one to work on when drive belts need changing, etc.. I would only use it on...

Turns out it's the primary drive belt. Seems like I just replaced it 4 or 5 yrs ago.

Thanks Bert. I'll have a look after the rains pass.

Sorry, model 465306x8B. If ou need more info, I can look tomorrow.

She backed out of the shed like normal, but when placed in forward the Go pedal got stuck in the down position and Larry's mower wouldn't go in foreward or reverse. The linkage looks good underneath. The brakes aren't locked, she rolls easy in N. The drive belt was replace a couple years ago...

FIXED! HALLELUJAH! Thank you. I guess I've been using it for 5 yrs without a belt guide. Never had an issue until this year.

The problem is the Primary Belt on the deck keeps jumping off the pulley under the mower everytime the drive is disengaged. There seems to not be enough tension on the pulleys, but I can't figure out where there might be a missing spring. Looking at the exploded diagram makes me dizzy. Any...

It's alive! The cheap $20 after-market carb arrived broken, so a refund was issued. Fortunately, i also ordered a cheap rebuilt kit for the carb. Between the new parts and old, managed to get everthing back together and fired right up with the aid of a jump battery. Will replace the battery...