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If you ground it and the engine stops then it is kill switch wire. If not, oil pressure it seams is likely spot.

FWIW, I rechecked the head bolts after running it for an hour. No change; they hadn't loosened a bit.

"retorquing the head bolts" meaning checking to see if they are at the 220 in-lbs level; not loosening and redoing it.

Back together; started right up. I don't like the valve adjusting; a bit finicky for me. Fingers crossed on how long it lasts. Any comments on potential benefit of retorquing the head bolts after an hour or so of running? Thanks to all for their help and comments on this.

Thankfully there is no groove or erosion of the head surface; that mark is just discoloration. Is the recommendation to have the head and block surfaces smooth as possible or roughened similar to brake rotors are when new?

Head is off: and with gasket removed: Arrows show where I think gasket failed. Agree? Is this enough to cause my oil burning or do you think I need to go to the rings? Thanks!

Thanks; I found this on Permatex site for this after I posted (duh): "Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline." So much for a posting on another place.

Thanks! I'll give that a shot. Head gasket is a better repair than rings! I assume I'll see oil squirting into the chamber on cranking?

How does that increase oil burning?

My ~17-year old Craftsman lawn tractor (917.275760) with a 18.5 hp OHV Intek engine (engine model 31p777-0299e1 040910ze) is now burning about 1 oz per hour when grass cutting. You can notice very light blue smoke going up hill (presume under load) and smell it all the time. This seems to have...

Success! Ran fine, no odd idle. I replaced needle valve, intake manifold gaskets and the two in the carb. One or more fixed the issue. Thanks all for the help!

Used the rebuild kit; carb was really spotless inside. Needle valve a bit worn. Started right up and idled well; have to see how it behaves later this week after 30 minutes of mowing. If it gets goofy, I think next step is a new head gasket, not much else to go wrong i don't think.

But why only after getting hot for >15 minutes?

Thanks guys; will order the rebuild kit and see how it goes.

It has the Nikki carb. Is it worth rebuilding it or buying a new Walbro? Amazon has new replacement carbs for like $20. Jack's Small Engines has rebuild kit for like $50. Any thoughts on rebuild vs new?

Here it is with some black grease I had. Loosening the gas cap did not change anything. I can blow through the hole in the cap so it isn't blocked.

My eyes now say: 31p777 0299e1 040910ze

31p777 0299e1 0?091??? I'll go out and look at it with eyes.

Scrub, the other numbers on the engine: 5bsxs.5012vp 276016 I thought about the gas cap but forgot to try that last time. I'm going to cut grass tomorrow, so I'll give that a try assuming it acts up again.

I've about a 15-year old Craftsman lawn tractor (917.275760) with a 18.5 hp OHV Intek engine (engine model 31p777-0299-e1) that only runs on choke when hot. I can keep it running if I run the mower deck engaged as the momentum of the spinning blades keeps it running; if I disengage the blades...