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I put the old seal back in (temporarily)in and filled with oil. Did a compression test both cylinders test at 140 pounds. There is some air coming out of the intake when I pressurized the cylinders, both sides. I got it started and it run as smooth as it always did. Is there a vent...

I’ll check compression tomorrow if I get a chance. I’ll also do a leak down test if I can find my setup. I start working harvest late this week, so I have to either get this one fixed or buy a new mower. Won’t have any time for the next 6-8 weeks. Thanks for the help.

I clean the cooling fins every time I use it. I got it from my brother in law when it us 18 hours on it I change the oil every 25 hour. Air filter is cleaned once a month and I replace it every 50 hours. Bob

It’s a Briggs & Stratton. I pulled the mower deck off and the crack seal was laying on top of the drive pulley in one piece. What could cause it to come out? My thought is crankcase pressure. Little history on the engine. I had to overhaul it at 110 hours the rings were shot. One piston...

My grandson was mowing lawn and he came in and said the mower quit. I went out and look at it and the deck wis covered in oil and the dipstick just barely has any on it. I filled it with oil and it cranks over, but the oil just runs out the bottom. Thinking it possibly is the cranks seal, but...

Yes, I put a JD OEM belt on last year. After taking the drive pulley off I removed the transaxle. The driven pulley on the transaxle is also shined right to the bottom. I’m going to replace all the pulleys plus the idlers and belt. Bob

I pull the deck off this morning and here is what the drive pulley looks like. There are ridges in it also. The plastic idler pulley looks good.

I have a JD D140 mower that I put a new drive belt on last spring. As the mowing season was ending up for the fall it started to slip more often. I’m wondering if either the drive pulley on the engine or the driven pulley on the transmission are worn out. Is there a way to tell if that is...

B&S repair manual states 0.005 on both intake and exhaust.

Mine had 140 hrs. I run Mobile Delvac 15/40 in my truck so I tried that still used almost as much. Even tried 50wt the last oil change that didn't work either. I've overhauled the engine. The rings were shot. A leakdown test on cylinder #2 was 100 % and #1 was about 20%. A new connecting rod...

Yes, operated quite a few of them making alfalfa pellets. This is just a project I'm playing with. Need projects during the winter.

The whole story about why I over hauled the engine is in the thread. You'll have to read it all.

And yet that exactly the way it turned out. The old rod had a clearance of 0.0015 and when torqued the rod was would not move on the cranks. The new rod clearance was 0.002" and moved freely on the crank. I put Dykem on the rod and torqued it down to 50 in-lbs so I could move it a little. There...

1) No to oversize rings, cylinder measurements didn't warrant it. Cylinder was honed. Rings endgaps we're equal top to bottom. 2) Timing marks were lined up, that's not hard to do. Procedure for setting the valves were the same for both cylinders according to the B&S repair manual. If people...

I'm the OP. You really need to read the posts from the beginning. As I've state three times already the problem has been solved. I replaced #1 connect rod and the engine is back in the mower and running. Bob

Problem is solved. The #1 connecting rod clearance was not enough and it would tighten up enough on the crank journal when torqued to specs that made it very hard to turn. Bought a new rod, installed it and engine is running good. Had nothing to do with valves or piston rings. Bob

Put my engine in my mower this morning. Cranked it for a bit to get the oil in the system. Put the sparkplug wires on and it fired right up. Started it five time throughout the day and it started every time. I'm sure it will start up tomorrow. I'm about a month away from lawn mowing. How...

Received my new connecting rod today. Used the micrometer and snap gauge to check the diameter, it was right at 1.500. Checked it with plastigage and clearance was 0.002". Cleaned up the journal and connecting rod and assembled it on the crankshaft. Torqued it to 100 in-lbs and it turned...

They plastigage indicated clearance is 0.0015 on the #1 rod. Still of I torqued rod cap to even 50 in-lbs I can barely move it. At 100 in-lbs I can't move it. Dykem didn't show any place where is was rubbing. The new rod should arrive shortly and I go from there then.

Just one tiny spot, almost like an air bubble popped.

OK thats why there are extra gaskets. I tried the Dykem and it didn't show anything. Torqued it down to 50 in-lbs, so I could still move it. Turned it about 1/8 of a revolution. I think maybe the crank is too smooth for transfer. Bob

The repair manual doesn't give a procedure to adjust the crankshaft end play. How do you adjust it? Bob

I will do that when I get to that stage. My connecting rod should be here in about a week. Bob

I started with a HF 8 x 14,. Did quite a bit with it, just wasn't long enough. Bought the 10" Atlas for $300, it has a 48" bed. Right now I'm building a wood pellet mill (we heat with wood pellets) I don't get much time to work on it with everything else going on. I retire from work 18 months...

A hobbyist. I have an old Atlas lathe and small mini mill. Bob

I have both. I'll try that tomorrow. Bob

I had time this morning to plastigage the #1 connecting rod. I did it 4 times on the cap, rod and on each side, all four measured 0.0015". I also did #2 twice and it measured 0.002". I also did three measurement with the Starrett snap gauge and got 1.497, 1.498 and 1.497. I believe the...

The engine ran good before teardown. But, it was using a quart of oil in less than two hours of mowing. I believe over torquing the caps caused the problem with the #1 rod/cap, but why didn't it cause a problem with #2. I found a Starrett (first one was a no name) snap gauge and another...

I removed the crankshaft from the engine block so I could more accurate measurements. Both journals on the crank measure 1.498", measure each at 90 degrees from each other. I only have a set of snap(telescoping) gauges to take measurement on the rod/cap, as you can see by the measurement there...

Thanks.

Do you happen to know what the service manual number is. I'm going to buy one? Bob

I was going to stamp the number on the cap, but since they were aluminum I was hesitant. I did use my machinist scribe to put the number on though. I've built quite a few auto engines in the past, but it's been a while on a lawnmower engine. I should have purchased a service manual right...

Both rod caps were over torqued to 150 in-lbs. I know what you mean now by making sure the rod caps were put on right. Figured out what marks you were talking about. I have been putting them on correct. I marked the caps as to which rod the belonged to as soon as I removed each. And I always...

I'll try and do that tomorrow. Bob

I actually found some plasti gauge. It shows clearance is less than 0.002". I measured the crank at 1.495" and the rod at 1.498". With a micrometer and snap gauge. Do you know what the clearance is supposed to be? Bob

What kind of marks are you talking about? I'll have to look at it. They only fit on one way. All my plasti gauge is old I'll have to buy some new. I found a new connecting rod for less than $20. Bob

It's a B&S 22hp V Twin model 407777-0274-G5. I figured out what the problem is. The #1 connecting rod is too tight when torqued to 100 in-lbs, I can barely turn it when torqued to 50. It turns out the service manual I was given was the wrong one. So, I torqued the cap to 150 in-lbs. Is it...

Ring gap was within specs.

I decided to pull the bottom on it next week and check that everything is correct. I removed the belts and pulleys off the pto end, it was still hard to turn. Bob

The starting issue has been solved. Choke linkage was not correct.

Checked out my mower this morning. Turned the key and it spun right over and started. Took the plugs out to look at them and it wouldn't crank over (plugs we're out). I started it off and on during the morning and it started right up. After lunch it wouldn't crank, turned it over with a...

Mobil 30 wt.

On the B&S V Twin that has been an issue.

I'll try that today if I get time.

Wouldn't it be flooded then? Starts right up after I spin it.

It's possible dust could have gotten in. I change the filter every year and check the filter every weeks when I check them oil. When I finish mowing I shut the deck off, drive to my barn and let it idle for a few minutes until it cools down. Bob

I have a JD D140 lawn tractor with a B&S 22 hp V Twin engine. I just over hauled then engine and replace the rings because of oil loss. I reinstalled the engine and cranked it over a number of time trying to start it. Wouldn't start got that figured out and started it and ran for a while at...

The mower was using one quart of oil every couple of hours. Head gaskets were changed to this spring to see if that corrected the oil consumption. Didnt stop it. One cylinder had 100% air lose with a leakdown test. It warranted an overhaul. It was either that or buy a new engine.

The old rings were about 2/3 the width of the new ones. I checked endgap of the new rings and they were correct according to the service manual. Bob

No, it does stay running, runs very good. I believe the manufacture date was 2012, mower is a 2017 and it's the original motor. The air cleaner cover has four bolts that hold it down. When I torn it down the ring end gap was approximately 0.100". When I received the new rings, the old ones...