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I'm fascinated with all of the answers to questions nobody asked.

This engine uses a vacuum choke pull off doesn't it?

I found it but it's in black and white. I can't be 100% certain but I'm pretty sure it's a tan wire.

I have one. Let me get my hands on it and I'll post back.

Unless it's been converted your engine has two ignition modules and a Spark Advance Module (SAM) that tells the ignition modules when to fire. Since you did the ohms test in the manual I'll guess it has not been converted. There will be seven wires coming out of that SAM. You may have to...

Could you define "checked coils" please?

I'm sure the mice like the easy access but even with that hole covered they will just come in another way. It's their job.

Not ashamed. It was actually a good system once the bugs were worked out of it in the late 90s. And most of the issues were with the ignition modules themselves, not the SAMs. The DSAM systems were quite bullet proof. When better variable time ignition technology came along things got upgraded...

The DSAMs used yellow and brown wires on one side and pink and brown on the other. Yours if the first one I've ever seen with yellow on both sides after Kohler went to the DSAM somewhere around 2002. Both the ASAM and DSAM systems used the exact same ignition modules.

The number on the flywheel itself is not a part number so it doesn't mean much to us. Your 24 584 27-S was for sure a DSAM if that helps.

The ASAMs had a yellow and a brown wire going to each ignition module. The DSAM still uses yellow and brown on one side but on the other side one of the wires is pink. I can't remember if it's the yellow one or the brown one that is pink on that side. Over time with the colors fading it's hard...

The CV740 used a DSAM not an ASAM. You don't need the 308 kit either. While it will have the correct MDI modules needed for the conversion it comes with the same flywheel your already have. What you need is a 25 707 03-S kit. It comes with two MDI modules. No flywheel change is needed. The CDI...

I'm far from any kind of an oil expert and I know a guy who ran his Jeep Grand Cherokee over 200000 miles before his son inherited it using nothing but the cheapest oil and filters he could find at Walmart. His son still drives it and last I knew it had around 310000 miles on it. That being...

Getting the correct primer and go from there is what I would do. If the original had no hole then you need one with no hole. They aren't interchangeable. You could be chasing an issue that wouldn't be an issue with the correct part. Can I say the correct part will fix it? Of course not. Just...

Did the customer say if the engine was running fine before the remote primer got broken? Has it been sitting around for quite a while broken or were they recently using it and broke the primer?

Click on the link at the bottom of my last reply titled "Kohler XT675-2047" Once there, go to reply #10. Go to the link in that video. It describes how to find valve overlap. A compression test likely won't tell you anything because if the crank has turned inside the crank gear it's usually...

I wondered if it might have had a CV16 blower housing on it. If that’s the case there is nothing missing and no need for the spec #. I would definitely cover that hole though. No sense in losing air that could be better used to cool the engine.

Sounds like a choke issue to me. Take the air filter off and look and see if it’s closed. How long is the engine shut off before you try to restart it?

Look at post #10 of this discussion in the link below. Watch the video. It will show how to find valve overlap. If overlap occurs any place other than the piston being at top dead center at the end of the exhaust stroke your cam and crank are out of time with each other and that could cause...

How are you checking for spark? That is a continuous loop system so testing is a little different. Do you have a way to connect two spark plugs together with spring clamps and a wire connecting them like is in the picture? Kohler recommends 4 spark plugs for this test. Two out of the engine...

It shouldn't no.

No. That's the voltage regulator. This is a SAM

I forgot to mention this to you yesterday but I looked at your crankshaft pictures blown up as much as I could and I couldn't find any evidence of a timing mark in any of them. I have friend at the Central U.S. distributor and this was bugging me enough that I was going to call him and ask him...

If you look at the picture Star posted and this picture from an XT675, that would possibly put the crank timing mark somewhere in the area of the blue circle. If the red circle is in fact the cam timing mark, it looks like they might line up if the crank were rotated.

What was the original reason for removing the oil pan?

I'd only be guessing but possibly with the drill the engine is turning at a fast enough RPM to disengage the compression release letting it build up compression it may not be able to do with the slower RPM of the pull starter if the cam and crank are out of time. That's just one theory.

The only way I know to time a cam to a crank without marks it to do it until I get correct valve overlap. Check out this video to help understand what valve overlap is. It's of course not your engine but the principle is the same. Then check and see if you get correct valve overlap when you...

If you can’t find any sign of a timing mark you can time it without a mark. It’s a bit of a pain but it can be done.

Can’t quite make out the spec number. Is it 41567? That is exactly where the Spark Advance Module would have been mounted but CV15 was fixed timed ignition and didn’t use a SAM.

Sadly Kohler hasn't published a decent service manual in over 10 years. Since the man who was in charge of Technical Publications retired, their manuals have been little more than telling you to "Diagnose engine. Find issue. Fix issue. Return engine to service".

This is one engine I never taught so I don't know for sure but can give you a couple of things to look for. Sometimes there is a thrust washer stuck on the crank gear hiding the timing mark. See if maybe that's the case. If not, look at the tooth that is directly in line with the square cut key...

Post a pic of the muffler if you can.

You might check with Toro. Old Kohler microfiche does not reference a muffler for that spec which typically means the muffler or exhaust was supplied by the equipment mfg. If Toro was using a basic round muffler then it would have probably been cheaper for them to source the muffler in bulk than...

Amazon has Castrol HD 30W but me thinks it will be hard to find someone willing to pay what they are asking.

No but I may have to plead ignorant on this one. Yours is different than the ones I've seen. I don't think yours uses a choke return spring. Like you, I don't see where it could go and with what the air vane spring looks to do I don't see the need for a choke return spring. The ones I have seen...

Yes they are different springs. The choke return spring stretches across the top of the carb from the choke shaft to a bracket that is actually part of the carb.

I agree. You don’t need to cause more problems. Just see if anything looks out of place or bent. It’s a pretty simple system so there aren’t too many things to check.

Without the muffler I'm not sure the thermostat will work correctly so that may not tell you anything.

Just a couple of thoughts. Maybe see if you can find out what the RPMs should be on this engine and make sure they're not below what they should be. If the RPMs are low there might not be enough air movement to force the air vane to move as far as it's supposed to. I don't know if this is even...

Yes. That is the Spark Advance Module. One thing to check with the SAM. If you can loosen it enough, turn it over and inspect the epoxy potting material on the back for any signs of cracks. If that material cracks, it lets in moisture and that would likely cause it to no longer work properly...

Don't know where you want to go but I can tell you what I would do next for what it's worth. It seems like it could be a timing issue and since the flywheel key is good, valve timing or a bad SAM would be what I would check next. Since you probably don't have a SAM tester I'd start with the...

Was it running correctly when you bought it or did you buy it knowing it had issues? That will give a little history as to when the issues may have started.

I was afraid you were going to say that. Have you had this equipment since new? If so, can you give a little history on this engine? When did it last run right and has there been any work done between when it last ran right and when it started not running right? Do you know if the engine has...

What does the spark plug look like? Does it show signs of the engine running hot?

Was the engine running when you took the video? I assume it was but I couldn't tell for sure. If so then the bubbles are normal and caused by engine vibration. Years ago manufacturers would put baffles in the fuel tanks to help limit that but then the baffles could deteriorate and plug the fuel...

Sorry if you already mentioned this but did you pull the flywheel and check the flywheel key?

Turn both mixture adjustment screws in gently until they bottom out. Then back the idle screw out 2-1/2 turns and the high speed out 3-1/2 turns. Then fine tune from there as needed.

No. Just wanted to be sure the wire to the points and the wire to the condenser were on the negative (-) side of the ignition coil and not the positive (+) side. It's something commonly seen where someone connects the points to the positive (+) side of the ignition coil and the engines will...

Yes the angled one on the side is the idle. The one in the top if the high spe

And the connections on the coil?