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You say you had to replace the gas cap I've seen pieces of old gas cap o rings bits get into fuel lines. Keep in mind that testing from a milk jug or gas can on the floor is starting with the fuel line dry and will take longer to get fuel to the pump vs from the LT 1046 tank has gravity fed...

You might post up the complete LT1046 model number. Some LT tanks are behind the engine and in front of the dash and have to loosen/remove the upper dash. Little easier than the rear mounted tank under the fenders. I've found videos for such, but sometimes had to watch several because none was...

Take the fuel cap off and blow back through the fuel line into the tank of use not over 5 psi air pressure. (be sure and remove the fuel cap because some cap do not vent pressure backwards, they only allow vent inward) As star Tech says sometimes a restriction or blockage in the fuel supply will...

You say: I’ve seen some suggestions online to just replace the impulse pump with an electric one. You say it's been dependable for years. Why not just replace the impulse pump and be done with it. Impulse pumps are cheap and dependable. A good electric pump is going to be costly and it HAS TO...

You say: Post # 6 refers to a 717cc to a 754cc engine. This is a 193cc. Setting up the governor uses the same basics. You said previously in your first post that you could hold the governor arm steady and the engine ran steady and nice. If it still hunts with a new CORRECT PART NUMBER governor...

Post #6 is what you need to read. You will have to re-adjust the Hz using a Hz meter each time you move the governor spring to a different hole in the gov arm. set the Hz at 63-64 wity\h no load. It's also quite common for a governor spring to become weaker over time and require a new spring...

Correct about the longer one in the front and is usually the one that twists off. Lots of places on them machines that 5 cents of antiseize FROM THE FACTORY would really help us do it yourselfers, just to mention few places, the engine output shaft, the rear axles shafts, the brake puck studs...

Maybe compare the depth of the other hole and also use a drill stop. I think maybe I seen about 1 1/2 inches of threads on the one I was able to wiggle out. Most likely 3/4 inch of good solid threads would be good. Just has to overcome the push force of the brake pucks when the brake is...

Post the model, type and code? Check the valve lash and set it at .003-.005 on the intake and .005 on the exhaust. Vlave lash is critical on the OHV Intek single cylinder engines, especially the intake valve lash. If too much it may not crank through on compression. I've even ran them at .002...

Read post #5, #6 & 11 And give us a hint of the model number and maybe can give you more detailed info.

I've been using two of these for about 6 years. I've used other but this one actually works great, well worth the price. You can just connect and leave it be, no concern about overcharging. It will completely charge a dead or low battery in few days but that is not it's purpose. Both lights will...

That happened to me awhile back. I raised the rear of the mower up on a hoist so as to be easy to get at the twisted off rusty brake bolt. Steel bolt going into aluminum. Severely galled threads. Just slightly enough stub to get vise grips onto then took vise grips off, took a propane torch...

So the NEW solenoid that you installed did not have the control wires connected? So the click that we assumed was the NEW starter was maybe the faint click of the fuel solenoid, maybe? Taking voltage readings rather than trying to see electric can really help sometimes.

Call Microsoft tech help. Listen carefully to the options. Press 1 for Spanish is the best choice.

Experience is what you get when what you got is not what you wanted. You wil not forget that one anytime soon. You will feel more like taking it apart after you price a replacement or a replacement mower. That one sure makes me feel better. Thanks for the picture.

Is it a E mower? (electric only)

See what the voltage reads on the battery side of the solenoid when you get the click and report. take the reading right on the solenoid stud, not the cable connector. The tarp smothered/sucked the life out of the mower!!!!!!!!!!

Did not see where you tried to adjust the valves lash to minimum specs BEFORE you took it apart? (especially the intake valves)

Are you saying you can use a car battery directly to the starter terminal and it will crank and start???? AND the NEW solenoid you installed clicks but the engine don't crank (spin to start) using the mower battery???? Have you trie3d using the car battery again??? Do You have a DC voltemter?

The air is evaporating.

No one has really answered the OPs real question of where the spring gets attached or did, I miss something. Seems they got a lot of good help but not an answer about the spring. After reading this I edited post #6

You asked: I notice the spring just goes from each end of the rod. could this be the issue. Not sure of your question here but here is some info that might help you. This link is about how to adjust the governor SPRING sensitivity. You can search on-line and find more general info about such...

I have a big pile of old keys of all kinds. When I get a lawn tractor with no key most generally (90% of time) I can usually find 3 or 4 keys that will work easily. (even house keys)

You say: Neighbor will now take flywheel to local shop for either new ring gear or used flywheel. Bad ring gear is aluminum. AND you say the starter Bendix gear teeth are metal. Some Bubba did not get them matched up correctly.

If that rig sets outside exposed to the weather (rain) I've seen the igniton switch rust inside enough that the stray voltage would intermittently get on the kill wire to the magneto and instant death and no amount of cleaning is a permanent fix for such. If you do not detect any stray voltages...

and as bert says they can be installed upside down. If you look very close and carefully at the black plastic some are labeled in weak small letters, this side up. You say it surges slightly at mid and upper throttle W/O a load on the engine If it smooths out under load it will probably be ok...

I would probably connect a temporary 12volt test light to the PTO clutch wire and see if the light comes on when I operate the dash switch. If it does and the clutch don't en-gauge the clutch itself is hanging. If the light does not comes on you have to test backwards. (upstream)

You did not give us any exact Kohler engine numbers, but several of the Kohler's have hydraulic valve lifter and do not have any adjusters. As Mech Mark says gas in the oil will cause the overrich looking condition and if the oil is 10/30 per specs it don't take very much contamination if the...

I overlooked the after fire solenoid for turning the fuel supply on off) Did the engine run smooth with both kill wires disconnected from the Mags? Or did you detect any change at all?

You say: engine will start and stop using key with both kill wires disconnected Wow. It's possessed!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/possessed

Yes the kill wire wiring harness on the twin OHV's has blocking diodes in EACH magneto wire. If one DIODE is shorted the ignition will be upset. First see if the engine will start with the right side plug wire off? Another test is remove the air shroud and disconnect both kill wires at the...

Just to confirm: Are all of these confirmed????? You say it appears the left cylinder is running cold and not producing power when you pull the spark plug wire? (I usually just slide the rubber plugs boot back and ground the spark plug wire tips with a insulated handle screwdriver) You have...

What model engine. Some of them old Briggs can be converted to the Magnetron ignition, no points. Just mount the magneto and don't look back.

Report???????????

What is the engine model number? Do you have a voltmeter?

I looked at your engine parts list and see that it is using a Nikki Dual throat 2 barrel carb. Setting in the drivers seat looking forward you need to determine which cylinder is dead, right or left. (you did not say which in your description? You say you have fire to both plugs and the valves...

I have two single axle lawn tractor trailers 10 ft long x 60 inches wide, one is tilt and the other has the drop tail gate. I installed/welded Boat winches on both to load non-running tractors/mowers. The tilt trailer is nice but you have to understand their limitations. (or you may get a...

Need your current engines model, type and code as already stated??????????? If that is a Briggs single cylinder OHV this info is on the valve cover. If not seen someone has installed the valve cover upside down. With the correct info We might be able to steer you to a different MAKE of carb...

Why don't you take the spark plug out a pull the rope and see if the spark plug sparks??????? Instead of just throwing parts at it possibly throwing good money into bad why not do some logical testing???? Post #43 will also give you a clue if it has any spark. You think MAYBE you have a jump...

This is a strange one for a copy and paste error????? erbay My computer might be getting a lisp or stutter????????????

Put up a game camera. Might have to lock or hide the camera or it might evaporate also. Just wondering: Are you located in or close to a Sanctuary City???

You asked me??? BTW, "erbay?" You mean ebay, right? Not sure of your question, I do not see the typo sometimes referred to as flea bay or FLEECE bay.

I have the plastic emulsion tube in my hand or on the workbench, not on the carb when installing the jets. Using the little hollow tube nut driver and the wire allows for straightening a crooked press if watched or looked at afterwards closely. Some will want to seat slightly cocked sometimes...

I've seen similar valve lift issues and the cam appear ok to the eyeballing. What I started doing is set the valve lash at very minimum .003 and leave the plug wire off or ground the kill wire. If compression is still too much for electric crank through I just inset .002 feeler gauge to take the...

I just recently stumbled across that sawzilla site. I ordered some Nikki Briggs stuff recently from them and shipping was only like $3.50 and tracking # provided and a fast shipper to me. Tip about replacing the itty bitty jet o rings. install the jet on a wire such as a straightened out paper...

One thing to keep a heads up about. Just a tip to be aware of in your description of how the saw is acting. This can happen fast and ruin your Stihl. I've seen Stihl saws do what you describe, mainly due to the H jet being adjusted too LEAN, but can be other things also. Saw cuts good if just...

Here is some info about your later model Nikki BRIGGS aluminum bowl CARB that I have on file for reference. This info will answer some of your questions about the Briggs Nikki's. Note the L in your first picture, that is the left side reference for the jets location. The texture of that carb...

The wire from the bottom of the coil is used to kill the engine by stopping the spark when IT'S GROUNDED. If the engine happens to start you will have to ground this wire to kill the engine. It will bite you if you just grab onto it with the engine running. If on a riding mower it normally...

I've seen them dual throat Nikki's do some weird things when they get upset. Do You see a Nikki carb number on the side of yours? Is that the Aluminum bowl or the Steel bowl Nikki? The reason I ask is the Aluminum bowl kit is different than the steel bowl Nikki and the steel bowl type has two...

See editing to my above post about testing your solenoid.