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That fuse - heavily corroded terminals. Check pin fitment as in should be very firm to insert. Should see scratches from the female connectors scratching the fuse legs on both legs. If no scratches, take pliers and gently smash the female connectors a bit. Easy here if you do too much, might...

Ever tried working on a 0 turn? Are you good with small engines? Or have a truck and trailer when she breaks down? Is there a spouse in the family? Maybe a kid or four? Push mowers for all. Great way to spend some much needed family time. 3 pushers = a 63" 0-turn deck. All for peanuts...

Is this stored outside? Do you use a power washer on it? Do you have mice at your house? One circuit you need to check into. Figure out why. Do you have battery power AT the PTO? Ground on that circuit good? Is the PTO switch actually good? With your eyes or a meter using a 5 amp (headlight...

You forgot to type, do NOT in front of that comment. All that will do it attract grit wearing out the parts sooner. Maybe spray silicone spray (light lube) then hit it with compressed air blowing off the excess.

Easy with the wire brush. Polishing/cleaning is what I was referring to.

Another opinion I see a perfect bore (for a mower). Have had many pushers with way worse gouges and piston rocking. Little smoking is fine. Oil is cheap guys. One tight intake valve guide. Easily reamed out with a simple reamer tool. Little valve guide and head lapping. New head gasket...

Do you have mice at your place? Chewing wires....... Agree, must load test the battery.

You know you can delete those right?

Everyone should be on Linux Lite. If you can run Windoze then LL is a breeze to cut over to Linux.

Ah, clean her like a new one. All that will do is attract dirt.

Did the same on the last filter order. The white 75 micron jobs for tight spaces (push mowers). Run all day on gravity fed engines. Prefer the Rotary 10352 for all others.

Run it on flammable spray juice. If she fires over then dies when the spray is gone, you have a fuel delivery issue. You can then test the injectors out of the engine to see them spray. Check fuel pressure. Do you have spark? Don't just stop at a fuel issue as it is EFI.

Look how close the upper cowl is to the battery. Sitting might close for comfort.

Roughly, 18 ounces of SAE 30w oil. Stay away from multi-weight oils. They shear down quick in hot air cooled engines. Use E-0 gas if you can buy it at 87 octane. I run Stabil year round as I forget how old the fuel is. Never have to worry about stale gas again. All 5 of my mowers, one trimmer...

Looking at the last pic, those electrical terminals are filthy. Make sure you have good pin fitment and all is CLEAN.

I get the Chinese clone of the Briggs 594593. Think it's good up to say 15-16HP single cylinders.

Launched another "tab" in latest updated FireFox. No luck. Launched Edge browser. Same thing, pages do not load. For me, doesn't seem to be a browser issue.

Doesn't go anywhere at all. Just times out for me on updated Firefox and Windoze 11. Pages do not load.

https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/products/briggs-and-stratton-594593-carburetor

594593

Briggs 594593. Do some research to make sure it fits yours.

Time to pressure test the carb. Forget the Lucas. 91 octane E-0 gas if you can buy it and Opti-2 oil.

Sounds like the needle is passing excess fuel possibly. 7 year old carb probably needs a rebuild.

How about his and her's push mowers? So romantic........ ♥️💞🥰💕♥️ Great way to spend quality time together and some MUCH needed exercise. That's a 42" deck for cheap. Easy to maintain too.

You can't buy expensive tools on this site. Been scolded several times now about spark testing tools LOL.

What do you think, the engine wants? If you spray go-go juice and she runs for a bit, then dies......... Did you clean the fuel tank, like a new one, as suggested previously? Didn't see anything about cleaning anything. Probably needs new fuel line from tank to carb. Fuel lines "can"...

Excellent. It could, mostly weak coils fade at mid and high revs. This is where the Christmas light coil testers do not show you the whole picture of can said coil jump a large gap in free air. We hav better tools now as in the PET-4000. Might have to pull the flywheel to get a better view.

Look for dead spindle and idler bearings. Deck piled up with grass.

If you have all new, "working" and "tested" parts, then look at the flywheel key.

Was this an OEM carb or a Chinese Scamazon/Fleabay clone?

Just pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Will easily see if the pump or a gravity system is working or not.

Where are you getting these regulators from? Think I know where....... And having to move some pins around doesn't sound normal. Get a Battery Tender while you are on Scamazon LOL.

Buy the proper OEM belt.

Can it fail, sure. Needing full choke to run is a dirty carb and or lack of fuel delivery. Possible fuel tank vent failure.

That white fog looks to be atomized fuel. As in the needle and seat not sealing proper.

THAT is definitely blown. No question. Now is the fun part. You must clean and lap the head and area on the block where the new gasket sits. I use 220 grit wet/dry paper on the garage door window. Go to 400 then 800 grit. Let the paper do ALL THE WORK. Don't press hard and rotate the head...

Please explain.........

Again "clicking" is not a 100% conclusive test guys. Example, starter solenoid contacts might be electrically worn down or burnt away not allowing 100% current or amperage transfer. Same as the dome light works but the car won't start. PTO clicking can be heard and not be transferring power...

If a relay or solenoid clicks, that doesn't mean you will have 100% current transfer from the battery to the starter. So saying I hear the relay click and you call it good, well not all the time.

There is your answer. What do you think it needs?

With an old one? Borrowed from a friend? Was it LOAD tested? Do you have mice around your crib?

There is more to it than seeing a spark inside a plug. The below type is the best. Lets you adjust the gap to make sure the coil is healthy. I've seen coils drop spark at mid to high revs. Looked okay at low revs. Weak coil can fool you.

Which basically tells you zero about the "condition" of your spark. Those Christmas light types are junk. We have better tools now.

This tip, is in, every, air cooled engine manual, regardless of brand, known to man. It's a yearly or more often like bagging grass maintenance item.

This is Taryl's video where he talks about coil testers. I've seen this on about five or six coils. This is why I preach about the wide gap types as the superior tool. Fast forward to 4:08 and ends at 7:03.

Taryl made a video explaining the coil tester types. He said and I agree, the light bulb type does not give the full picture of coil performance. Taryl said to get the Briggs type or even better the PET-4000. He had a coil that would fire at low revs then crap out at mid and high revs. I've seen...

Clean the tank like a new one. Fix the carb leaking issue first then do a couple oil changes. As in mow once, dump the oil and mow again. Dump the oil and smell the stick along the way. Confirming no smell of fuel in the oil. Add some fresh oil and mow normally. You can get a gallon of SAE 30w...

Yes it could leak at anytime. They work just like a toilet flush valve does.

Do you have any gas pilot lights going in your garage? If so I would get the mower fixed asap. You have a 12 year old mower. Time for maintenance. 1.Full carb clean or replace 2.New fuel line from tank to carb 3.New fuel filter and shutoff valve 4.Fuel tank super flush 5.Final hose pull off...

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