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Shutting down a Courage single like that shouldn't have caused a problem. I'd probably start simple by pulling the rocker cover and turn the engine over and see if both rocker arms are moving. There were some compression release issues on the early engines but I believe that issue was solved...

Bent starter shaft was very common on the Courage twin cylinder engines. Kohler had the starter vendor increase the diameter of the shaft and changed the number of teeth on the gear so today that issue should be gone.

Exactly. That's why I was asking OP if they ever figured it out. That engine doesn't have a compression release so valve clearance doesn't matter. That engine is always going to be under full compression. If the valve clearance was too tight that could affect compression but that would lower it...

Ever figure it out?

Do you have it figured out yet? There could be other issues going on that are making things not working correctly but Kohler wires are Kohler wires. The white, green, red and purple on your original engine will do the same thing on the replacement engine. The white is ground to kill. The green...

Yeah that's because it doesn't need a regulator/rectifier. It's actually serving no useful purpose. If you can get your hands on an actual correct 12 584 04-S I'd try that.

Where you now have the regulator/rectifier mounted was there anything mounted there before? Normally on a 3 amp system there is a blank plate there. The 15 amp systems use that regulator/rectifier and have two white wires coming off the stator. The center spade on the regulator goes to the B+...

Of course that's exactly what I did. I looked at photo and recognized it as a Kohler. No question about it. It's a Kohler Command vertical shaft single cylinder. That blower housing and air filter and the upside down oil filter scream Kohler. 100% without a doubt.

It's definitely a Kohler.

There should never be any direct battery voltage going to any magneto type ignition coil so I don't quite follow what you have going on there. I actually taught Kohler technicians for 27 years and you definitely have something cobbled together there. And from you pictures you do for sure have a...

1.The Speed Advance Module has 5 wires. Red was key switched battery voltage. Black was ground. White was the kill lead. The other two wires, probably yellow and brown, went to the ignition coil. One spade terminal was slightly smaller than the other so you couldn't hook it up wrong. 2. The...

That is the correct part number. How does it run if you run it on just one cylinder at a time?

The 12 584 12-S isn't a voltage regulator but is called a Speed Advance Module, sometimes a Spark Advance Module which says you have a CV16. This still doesn't explain why your replacement coils won't mount other than they aren't the correct replacement for a 12 584 04-S. If your engine still...

Doesn't matter. CV15 or CV16 the blocks are the same so the 12 584 04-S will mount regardless. It might not run right but the coil will still mount, it would just be out of time. It would probably seem to run fine until you got it under a load. It would then be low on power. The CV16 was just a...

The 12 584 04-S is the correct module for CV11 thru CV15 and there is no other. Kohler has used that module for 20 plus years. Are your incorrect replacements genuine Kohler parts? It is possible to mount the module wrong side out but it still fits the same and you can set the proper gap but it...

What's the part number of the coil you used as the replacement? Did the small wire connection or connections look different from the coil you took off?

Yep. I would agree. A restriction in the muffler could definitely cause your scenario.

Did you also turn the governor shaft counterclockwise as far as it would go before re-tightening? The way I always explained a mechanical governor adjustment was to loosen the governor arm on the governor shaft. Move the governor arm which ever direction needed to open the throttle on the carb...

According to your spec # you have a governed idle and you may not have an idle screw on the carb. That screw if there wouldn't be used with a governed idle. Look at #27 in the diagram. That is the governed idle spring which again, according to your spec # your engine should have. One end of it...

Yep. Have to troubleshoot first.

Ummm, what?

After the engine stops running but has not yet stopped spinning is there still spark?

Do you have a way to safely gravity feed fuel directly to the carb from another source? Maybe another small fuel tank or bottle? Obviously am looking to see if the issue goes away when the carb is fed from an alternative source. If the problem is still there you can forget the fuel lines being...

Does a tiny bit of choke help at all or does that immediately make it worse?

My assumptions were created when you asked about running the engine with the float bowl off which pretty much took all the assuming off the table. I will make another assumption and assume your original question the way you asked it wasn't exactly what you meant to ask and wish you the best of...

Not trying to be mean here but you don't know how to do any of the troubleshooting procedures and from the sounds of it your mechanical abilities are next to nothing. You are going to hurt yourself. Working with carburetors and fuel is very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Don't...

You didn't share the engine model number so it would be just a guess if your engine even needs a valve adjustment. Kohler uses hydraulic lifters on many of their engines and they do not require adjusting. If your engine is a Kohler Command then you have hydraulic lifters and no adjustment is...

That was right at the time Kohler was going from the CV22 to the CV23 and the early specs were labeled as CV22s. The 75XXX specs had a slightly larger bore. At the time Kohler actually referred to it as their large bore 22.

Save yourself some time and inevitable injury and get it to a qualified service facility.

I noticed where the link connects to the new carb there is no plastic grommet there. Is there on the old carb?

I don't see a governor spring. There should be a short spring about the diameter of a pencil or slightly larger. One end should be attached to the governor lever and the other end to that lever your throttle cable is moving. Item D below is the spring I am talking about.

Looking at your video a little closer the governor lever looks like it's moving correctly. I was mostly listening when I played the video previously trying to hear how fast it was running. Looks more like a control issue either with the control assembly or the throttle cable.

As long as you moved the lever so the throttle plate was wide open then turned the governor shaft the same direction as far as it would go and kept it in that position while snugging that nut then the adjustment should be correct. If the engine was run with the governor out of adjustment you may...

When you did Step 6 did the governor lever move on the governor shaft? This instruction isn't correct. It's close but step 6 puts the governor out of adjustment. The adjustment is correct up until Step 6. You want move the governor lever loose on the shaft until the carb throttle plate is wide...

You probably won't find it in stock either but if you're really wanting a new engine a CH742-3112 is the exact same engine less the front drive shaft. Take it and the flywheel screen off your original engine and put it on the 3112 and now you have a 3111. Finding one may be a long shot but at...

I've pretty much only worked with Kohler and Tecumseh engines for the last 26 years so I have to plead a bit ignorant on Briggs but, for the flywheel does Briggs use a straight key or a woodruff key? If it's a woodruff key then to be sure the key is not sheared the flywheel will have to come...

If you don't mind, post the spec number.

If you're talking flywheel key, the flywheel needs to come off to know for sure.

If you have it bored I would NOT give them the piston unless you are 100% sure they know what they are doing. They don't need it. All the machine shop needs to know is the brand new bore I.D. and they simply need to bore it .010 or .020 or whatever it takes over that figure. I've seen it too...

Wow that's unusual. I don't believe I've ever seen a cracked ring on a Kohler. Like hlw49 mentioned, if the upper end, meaning heads, carb and intake manifold are all undamaged and in good shape a short block should be all you need. Do you know how many hours are on the engine now? If you're...

Choke?

That would depend on what is wrong with the current engine. What's going on with it?

Get some way to keep the choke wide open and see how it runs. Without a connection to the choke thermostat there is nothing keeping the choke open. With the choke being loose, once the engine starts the drawn in air simply closes it. The new and the old carb look the same. What happened to the...

I haven't read every post but have you taken the flywheel off and held the flywheel key in your hand? Bad fuel or trash in the fuel could of course affect both sides but I would doubt both ignition modules went bad at the same time. If you're still working on it check the flywheel key and you...

Kohler has at least 4 different plugs with 12mm threads but no replacement for the 14 132 11-S. The other plugs will fit physically but the heat ranges are different and using one of them in place of the 14 132 11-S is not recommended by Kohler. This info is a several months old so I can't swear...

I'll check my Kohler plug cross reference list when I can find it and post back but if this is the plug with the 12MM thread size that plug was made by Torch specifically for Kohler and as of 6 months ago there was no alternate. If I find something different I will post again. Okay found it...

A lot of older people can't start the mowers because they have never read the user manual or been shown how to start them correctly. It doesn't work for everyone but I know of several new electric start lawnmowers that weren't sold because the customer was shown how to properly start their...

And finding the site hole in the bearing plate could also be challenging some times depending on how the engine was mounted. Maybe not so much finding it but being able to see in it.

The timing light was my preferred method. I've seen a few holes burned through K-series cylinder heads because the points weren't set correctly. I normally didn't get a call until they burned a hole in the new replacement head in about 15 to 20 hours of being replaced.

Is there a tension spring on the low speed circuit screw?