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I *do* record *my* numbers. But this was a craigslist freebie. I have not lifted up that flap at all, I guess thats a good place to start!

I have an MTD Yard Man push mower. I would assume its about 20 years old. The ENGINE numbers are very clearly visible on the metal flap on the side of the engine. But the mower model number is nowhere to be found! I'm not seeing the typical MTD number sticker anywhere. Theres some warning...

Update time! I took the carb off tonight. As soon as I unbolted the carb, it was time to disconnect the fuel line. But no need, the fuel line basically crumbled in my hands! So I don't know if that was 100% of the leaking. The needle seal looked ok when I got my eyes on it, but it kind of...

I kept a close eye on it and was ready to rapidly escort it to an open area if needed.

Ok in a few days I guess I'll take it all apart, get the carb on my workbench, and then get to work. It smelled BAD even after being outside for a few hours, so I'm going to leave it outside (under a roof) for a few days before I bring it inside to work on it. But yeah a questionable fuel line...

Got a freebie "doesn't run" mower thats been siting in my basement for 2 years. Today was the day to start working on it (i make videos of the repairs) So after doing basic checks, everything seems good, so I put some gas in it and before I can even try to start it up, gas starts gushing out...

Ok so my MTB skills saved the day. It wasn't as easy as I thought. The cable was too long, but only a little bit too long. Too long to pull the throttle open, but short enough that there really wasn't enough to bolt on. But because I had to cut the lower fitting off the cable anyway, I could...

I found an old broken mountain bike rear derailer, I should be able to pull off the cable clamp bolt, retainer and back threading piece and adjust that so it works here. I'm probably going to cut a little groove slot for the cable on the motor part, so mimic the derailer itself. Derailer cables...

Or maybe the solution is simple. A tiny nut and bolt where the Z fitting connects to the motor, and just snip teh cable to size, bolt it up like a bicycle derailer, and hopefully be done with it forever.

To further complicate/confuse the issue, when I look up my model number on troybilt.com, it lists 5 different cables for this machine. But the one I ordered is the shortest one of the bunch. All the others are longer by at least 10 inches. Yet, my cable is too long.

This thing was stored outside for 20 years, I don't think I'm going to be able to read numbers off the cable housing.

So how do you know which one your specific machine takes, if the same model number machine has four different cable parts? Also the old cable snapped and was stuck in the housing so I had to cut the other end off and ended up tossing the whole thing. So even if i picked it out of my trash, it...

How would you put the "Z" end back on the cable after you've cut it? It appears to be permanently molded on. Not like cables on a mountain bike where one end is molded on but the other end is just pinch fit with a screw

I'm helping my neighbor fix is broken mower. The throttle cable snapped years ago and its just been sitting. I changed the oil, zip tied the throttle, and was able to get it running. And in fact after a few minutes, it was running really good. So I hopped on jackssmallengines with the machine's...

Isn't loctite just going to burn off after a few minutes of running the motor?

I've only used a helicoil once on an MTB brake caliper and it works really good. The only issue was that it was really hard to keep the tap perpendicular to the hole I was trying to thread. But I did get it eventually, thankfully. These carbon fiber frames are not cheap! But the way spark plug...

Last Fall, I was winterising my equipment and I accidentally stripped the spark plug hole on my yard vacuum. Its a 31 year old machine and I didn't turn that hard, so its probably a failure that has been inching its way to happening for a while. But no worries, this is a great opportunity for...

I see. Too bad they didn't stick a little plug in starter on there, like snow blowers have.

I have a maybe 15 year old craftsman yard vacuum. Long story short, its plastic timing gear melted, so I had to pop the engine off and replace it with a new one, that was metal. When I opened the motor, I was expecting a melted camshaft. But the camshaft looked perfect and the gear that spins it...

So I took apart the mechanism where the starter pawls retract. There was one weird piece of plastic in there that I thought might be causing sounds, so I tossed it and reassembled. Started it up, still rattley noise. While it was running, I very slightly pulled the starter rope until the pawls...

Yeah there is a misfire but thats not what we're trying to fix here right now. Towards the middle of the video, when i've taken teh cover off and i put it back on, the sound gets very loud. It is definitely coming form the cover but I can't see anywhere it would be coming from, nothing looks...

Ok so last night i went to 'prove' the sound wasn't coming from the plastic cover and it turns out, its coming from the plastic cover! HAHA. Thats good because now I don't have to remove and open the crankcase. But its bad because I still can't figure out where the sound is coming from. The...

This is a machine I've had lots of previous posts about and done lots of repairs to. It has a very subtle misfire that I just can't fix. Possibly low compression from slightly scraped up cylinder wall? Either way, its plenty good enough. I mowed my large yard with it today and it works fine...

UPDATE: I contacted another random company online asking if they had a picture of the part they were selling with the number 590534. After going back and forth a bit and hearing my problem, he was able to contact briggs directly and get an answer. They messed up, all these seals are going out...

Yes I tried to see if it will fit. Its a totally different part in a totally different shape so theres no way to even try to install it. Its like trying to install a square peg in a round hole.

Those numbers were so finely engraved that they were completely invisible to my naked eye, but alas:

That was me! With the paint! But those were numbers engraved in the metal cover of a yard vac motor. The numbers for this motor are printed on a label and are perfectly legible. Also if you search for the part number, you will fine SOME sites that have the correct valve listed! But even those...

The 3rd and 4th pictures in your set of pictures are not the same seal. The 3rd one is what people keep sending me and the 4th one is actually what came out of my motor.

How can I do this? I can't find any way to contact them, they only deflect to 3rd party "authorized" resellers.

The saga continues. I bought one from Amazon that had a B&S logo without an actual photo of the seal, because I'm out of options here. I hoped I'd get lucky and it would be the right seal, but it was the wrong one.

Ok the most recent place that sold me the wrong seal just got back to me saying that the seal they sent is the "new design" for the same part. But I tried to install it and of course, its impossible. Theres nothing for it to install into because its a completely different part thats a completely...

Seems like B&S got the two numbers mixed up.

Well I'd prefer new but that doesn't seem to be an option until B&S figures out their wrong part number problem SOOO yeah if you have one in good shape I might be interested.

no it does not fit

I removed the valve seal on this mower I was trying to fix and tore it in the process. No problem, replacement seals are cheap. I looked up the numbers online and according to every source I can find, I need part number 590534. But I've ordered that part from two different places now, and both...

You know what would SIGNIFICANTLY help prevent this? If stores actually posted pictures of the parts, instead of using a generic B&S logo as the image for this thing. MOST websites including ebay selling these seals use the logo instead of a real photo. No wonder there is confusion.

My yard was a real mess when I bought my house, 11 years later, it is looking good. Now it looked good the last few years, so it didn't take me a full 11 years to turn it around. ALSO we've had a very rainy spring so far, which is why it looks exceptionally good at this very moment. Still...

The more people I contact, the more contradicting info I find. I emailed B&S through their parts website and I got a reply that said 'uh oh i think our stock is wrong, we'll get back to you' . It is very annoying.

So when I search for the valve seal part number (590534), I'm finding both seals types, the one that fits my machine, and the one that doesnt. Do they have two different parts with the same part number? How do you differentiate? Example: 590534 But then: 590534

The model number is in the previous reply. And 590534 is the part number i ordered that seems to be wrong. Where would one find the date code?

Ok I looked up my motor number again (09P7020144F1) and looked up the valve seal part number (590534) and what I see on jackssmallengines looks like the original, not the one I bought. But I didn't buy from jacks, I bought on ebay. But the part is supposed to be an OEM part and it came sealed...

Ok I got the valves out, i was stock on removing the caps but they came right off, then the sliding clips came right off, and now I'm all good. Well, except for this . . . The old valve seal vs the new one, they sure do look different. Whats up with that? I ordered via part number so it should...

I already did this once last year but I guess I forgot because I can't figure it out. Normally you just push and slide but that doesn't seem to be working here. This is a 675 model off of a craftsman lawnmower. Theres the retaining clip that holes the spring on, then theres the little cap that...

Well, by "these" I mean "this", just one cylinder. How does this look? Good? Bad? Soso?

On my mom's lawnmower, the end of the drive cable snapped. Its an older machine so if one snapped, the other is probably close. So I was going to replace both. But I was looking at this today. So the cable that snapped is the one with the spiral housing around it. if you unbolt this clamp...

Update: I fired the machine up today and it started pretty easily and seemed to run well. I let it run for about 15 minutes. It was very cold out today, about 32°. I had sprayed fogging oil in the cylinder so there was a normal big cloud of smoke at first, but that went away after a couple of...

Well then fingers crossed I really don't need a new engine! I suppose the best option if I did would be to buy the harbor freight engine and bring it to a machine shop and see if they could mill the shaft somehow to make it fit

That would be perfect for what I'm looking for. Because not only do I want a high and low forward, and a reverse, but I also want to put an open differential on this machine so I can actually take corners without the worlds worse understeer. AND I want to hook it up to my factory CVT. It would...

"Now some do have a multi speed differentials as you choose low, high, and reverse ranges." tell me more about THAT. The MOST ideal solution for me would be some type of gearbox that has a normal forward, a low range forward, and a reverse, all hooked up to a regular old automatic CVT belt drive!

So what do you do? Is there really no way to replace the motor if it was dead? Or would I have to try to transplant this one's crankshaft into a different motor?