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post your model number and serial number. Also confirm if you are the original owner and that the history of the mower does not include unusual options or modifications. AI suggests that the LT1000 covered 10 years of production and came with many different configurations. I don't know but...

we had a clean room for the racing engines. As in special filtration etc.. I build engines on the work bench but the area is spotless when I am working there. My hands probably get washed a dozen times an afternoon while assembling. I feel everything for grit. It goes thru a safety Kleen parts...

like asking which egg shell the one of 100,000 chickens came from. Each model is different in parts. It changes over time. The parts change over time and can depend on what the motor is used for. Hence ILENGINE is suggesting you provide a model and serial number. Maybe some photographs too.

is there gasoline in the oil? If so it is too rich. Have any critters moved in, peed on the wiring, chewed it? Maybe rust is bridging the coil gap and weakening the magnetic field. The easy fix is pull the shroud cover, compressed air around the coil and flywheel, and double check the air...

could be, or a bad plug

what oil are you using?" I run the mower one time to get it hot, stir things up, and then change the oil on a new engine. That is how I do it. Others may feel different.

What others said ^^^ If I had to guess, that is a mis-fire and the pop pop pop is the mis-fire charge igniting in the muffler, from the next time it fires. It is a small muffler so it is a higher pitched sound than a bigger more resonant muffler. I would replace the spark plug with a new one...

Most likely either the belt is too tight, and out of adjustment so the rear wheels are still driving, or the clutches / pawls in the axles need greasing. Most of the mowers like that get rust and dirt in the parts inside the wheel area, and that causes issues. That is how it is on my Toro when...

depends on the grass type. Some like shorter and some like longer. Also depends on terrain. Irregular ground needs more height than a perfectly flat lawn. Generally cool season grasses are happy at 2-1/2 " to 4". Bermuda is happy shorter. Too short and weed seeds can germinate and survive...

Did AI write this thread?

Ethanol is a molecule that has hydrogen, carbon and carries an oxygen molecule. Octane carries only hydrogen and carbon. It has many more of both compared to ethanol. As a result, ethanol burns leaner, faster and produces less power. It results in a 12% faster rise in combustion pressures, and...

have you checked the coil to flywheel clearance? Cleaned it to get rid of rust and particles? I doubt if it matters but the flywheel looks like it has been rubbing on the coil.

some people have done testing on YouTube on different fluids, graphite, Fluid Film etc.. They all help but wear out fairly quickly. Looked to me like it has to reapplied maybe every other mowing to keep working well. Could get time consuming and expensive. But so is replacing a deck or mower.

I need something to wash and wax the car. Do you have one that does that without damaging the paint or leaving streaks?

Pull the cord slowly until you feel it start to a kick/bind, then pull really hard.If it is at the end of the rope, let it in and pull hard. Don't just pull and pull and pull. I had to train my other half to do the same thing because she was having the same issue. Now she starts it 99 out of 100...

this ^^^^^^

Jerry, if there is no spark, focus on that for now. 0 ohms means a short to ground. a flashing 0 usually means open. Get to know your meter by seeing what it reads with the probes touching each other. Check the kill wire again. Pull the plug and check the gap. if the crank was damaged and the...

did you say you checked fuel flow? Made sure the tank cap vent is working?

on some engines an oil siphon is easier. I've never found a quick drain that was less of a hassle than the factory one. Hoses rot, get pulled loose etc..

post some photos please of what you are up against.

the forks were damaged by the owner. That is why they did not cover it. If someone's engine light comes on, and in the process of trying to get off the highway safely the engine blows up, that is on the factory warranty. If someone decides to drive it around for a couple weeks with the light on...

with photos, the angles they are taken at can make it impossible to know what the person is talking about unless someone has had the identical problem. All I got from the photos was it looks like a bolt is missing and a linkage broke because of it. Put some arrows or a circle or something like...

so what was the original problem that required removing the engine, turning it upside down, removing the oil pan and messing with the governor?

Why are you shouting at everyone?

remove it and see if it is magnetic. Could be a ball of plastic, dirt, or something that made a ball rolling around. I have never seen anything like this but I can visualize it happening.

is this a module that requires voltage to operate (has a 12V wire also) or is it a coil that has only the plug and kill wires. I would also measure resistance between the head and coil body. It should be close to zero and not open, in K ohms, or in M ohms.

http://google.com then input 753-05851 into the search box.

The post is a newby building post numbers, or AI learning not to post in 13 year old threads.

The type of o-ring determines how long it lives. On most of my equipment that o-ring out lives everything else on the engine. Silcone, Viton, NBR, EPDM, all work well. Black, green, red, brown - any color. They just live different length lives in different environments.

use the manufacturer spec on the air gap. Most are .010" I use a non-magnetic gauge courtesey of Briggs and Stratton or maybe Techumseh. Can't remember which.

when you pull that rope, put an old towel on the head to catch the fuel because it is going to come out like nuts. If the plug sparks it can ignite the spray without a towel, or the towel. Be prepared to put the fire out. If the engine has a on off switch, leave that switch in the off position...

in a case like that, I would drain the tank and carb bowl, use only new fresh fuel. If there is a drain on the bowl, I would put a pan under it then loosed in it and see if fuel keeps flowing out the bowl for about 30 seconds to be sure that the flow is sustained. If it will not start right away...

the carb or fuel pump. On a rare case, a leaking intake manifold or water / kerosene etc., in the bowl instead of gasoline. Or old fuel

the carb in the image posted by Star Tech has a flap that opens to let fuel in and closes as the piston cycles so the fuel can'trun back to the tank. It acts as a fuel pump. That flap loses its abilty to seal as it ages. The flap curls. If it is that carb, it will run really crappy until it is...

a tight valve would be more noticable at idle because the compression has longer to leak out it if the valve is open. Also it makes the camshaft a longer duration, which alone favors higher rpm. At low rpm, a valve that is tight might allow reversion into the intake manifold,and open the exhaust...

I bored blocks for a living for a couple years. The first thing you need to do is inspect a cylinder, assess where it is at in diameter compared to the piston, and determine what you will be doing to it. If you are doing a ghetto or shade tree rebuild then it doesn't matter because someone will...

is it gravity fed into a carb bowl, or does the carb have a passage for forcing fuel transfer? If it does not have a carb bowl then it has some sort of fuel pumping mechanism built in. If that is the case, then that has likely failed. The gaskets warp and flaps cease to seal each pulse. Once...

these suggestions from Autodoc and Slomo above ^^^^^^^^

If you lost something, you would backtrack to where you last knew you had that thing. The same is true of the coil ground. Backtrack between the coil and where the system is working right. You don't have to understand the whole system, although it helps. You only need to discover where the coil...

the good news is that you figured it out. That is one of the hazards of buying used. But with a good enough price, all things are possible

In order Real penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Knock er loose, PB Blaster and not generic oil or WD40 spray. WD40 does make a penetrating oil however Heat the area and nut up red hot with a torch, that may help. If it is a stud, heat the head until it is toasty but don't melt...

easy. You are missing one of these three Fuel to air mixture spark compression Find which and it will lead you to where to look next

vw buses in the early 1970s used a thermowax unit on the preheat. It is not available any more. Some guys discovered that they could peen/crimp the body just a tiny bit and restore functionality of the old one. That or find a new one is what I would try. There should be a spec somewhere on what...

based on what you said, best guess is that the damage occured due to the bearings not being greased enough. I would clean them up with solvent to get the old grease, dirt and paint out, then grease and see how they do. Re-engineering an old mower may say you have too much time on your hands...

Have you confirmed that the inner races spin freely on the outer with no grit or roughness? That wheel is awfully clean for a 34 year wheel. I haven't gone back thru the whole thread - have you replaced or painted those wheels before?

Depends how woorn the head is. You will need either new heads, or at least a 5/16" piece of glass, some wet and dry sandpaper, and some time. You make figure eights on the sandpaper sitting on the glass while rotating the head a little each figure 8. That keeps the head even. Try to keep it...

check compression. If low check valve lash. Ether ignites when gasoline will not. Depending where the plug is, you can pull the plug and put a teaspoon in the plug hole. If it runs then it is the carb or a vacuum leak, or a bad automatic choke. If it doesn't run then it may be flooded. That...

So I did some research on Amazon of the manufacturer of that aluminum tank. They build and sell products designed to replace the plastic tanks. They also accept custom orders. That is the path I would explore. https://www.hcspeed.com/pages/hcseppd-about-us There is also this $36 solution but I...

bearings will do that. I had a CJ7 that would wear out a spindle every 40,000 freeway miles. Large tires made it worse. Just keep it serviced once a year and that will slow it. A solution may be to buy a set of spindles before they are NLA, put them in your parts storage, and when they get so...

I would start like suggested by several others, with fresh fuel, add a fuel drier and see if that helps. Can also be a little sticking on a valve, or engine in need of a valve adjustment. Can be a bad plug, chewed plug wire, etc., but I would start with the fuel. Check for critter nest too if...