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Friday morning update. The rod from governor arm to throttle are was pretty snug at the throttle end. I lightly sanded and got it moving more freely, and lubed the pivot points for both arms and it cut down on the amount of surging. It must have been binding a little. I also adjusted the low...

No. What do I need to do? Pull the bowl and lift the float and see where it closes?

I have, it doesn't seem to stick, so I try and remember to double for 4 smokes. It was really cheap though.

My tach defaults to 2stroke, 1 spark per rev.

Motor is Briggs, model 19E412, type 1131e1, code 990428yd. BTW, I messed up the RPM's earlier, multiply by 2. 2800-4000. I know it should run at 3600, that's 60hz. I've had good luck with replacement carbs. This may need a little tweaking.

I took off the cable tie, and set the spring back in the middle, and it's going around 1400 rpm to 2000, voltage going 90-140. Should I try and richen? It's a new carb, new fuel lines and filter from tank to carb, and flows freely.

It's hard to hold it steady, but it seems the engine speed is steadier. You can see the lever moving a lot. It did it on the original carb, but less, but I did have that cable tie adding tension. When I had the original carb out and was testing, I noticed that the plastic 90degree fitting was...

I've had this generator for a few years, it's worked ok, but the carb leaks. I used a pressure tester, and from 5 lbs, you can see it slowly drop. I cleaned the carb, needle, seat, no change. It was also hunting some, not settling to a steady RPM. At some point in the past, I used a cable...

Sure sounds like float or needle. If it's not a big hassle, pull the carb, and check if the needle valve closes when you turn it upside down. That's the recommended way to test with a pressure gauge. You can put a clear fuel line on it, fill with diesel, and see if it holds. You can get a...

Have you confirmed that you have good spark to both cylinders?

Replace the battery and troubleshoot from there. Shaking and smoking aren't likely to be caused by the battery. Check the belt. Is it damaged, and still correctly routed? Check the blade, is it bent or broken? Does the blade move freely with engine not running and PTO disengaged? Try and...

Oops. I searched on the right part number, but it gave me the wrong one. Ebay...

What is the motor model #? It should be on the motor.

DId you try my link? It looks like one for sale.

Great! Glad you fixed it. You're welcome!

If you sit in the seat and turn ignition on, and engage the PTO, do you hear a sound? Kind of a thump? If so, it's the clutch engaging. Make sure PTO is disengaged before trying to start the engine. If you hear a click when you turn key to start, that's usually the solenoid engaging. If...

Could be. I am assuming you're talking about the blade engagement, or PTO switch. Hopefully someone familiar with that machine will speak up. I don't know the safety switches on that machine. On mine, you can turn on the ignition, sit on seat, and engage the PTO and you'll hear it engage...

Sounds good!

FIrst thing is install a cutoff in the fuel line. Second thing, if it's doing that, it's contaminating the oil. Hopefully we can figure out where the leak is and you can change the oil. You can test with a clear fuel line connected to the carb, that runs a foot or so higher than the carb...

Have you tried ebay...

Have you checked for free flow to the carb? Pull fuel line from carb, drain into a jar. It settles to the bottom. Does it flow freely, or dribble? If not free flowing, fuel lines/tank may have crud in them. Examine the fuel in the jar. Do you see any signs of water? If you've been...

Also check fuel flow from tank to carb. Pull fuel line from carb, check for free flow. If it has a fuel pump, crank the engine to check flow.

Thanks Smedley, I don't see many newer engines.

I don't know anything about that engine, but 16/1 seems very heavy on the oil. I am used to 40 or 50 to one. Hopefully someone will speak up...

Copied.... How are you verifying spark? The light bulb spark testers do not test well. There is a gap spark tester available for a very reasonable price, I expect to see a link showing up soon. You can test with the plug removed, connected and grounded, and see if there's spark at the plug. Next...

Seems like we got a duplicate post. I answered on the other one...

How are you verifying spark? The light bulb spark testers do not test well. There is a gap spark tester available for a very reasonable price, I expect to see a link showing up soon. You can test with the plug removed, connected and grounded, and see if there's spark at the plug. Next is...

I gotta get some of that marine grade. I didn't know about that, sounds great. Thanks!

I would say the hole in the middle. That way the spring pulls the pulley to the right, tensioning the belt.

Of course you know it's back, or you couldn't see this! I was getting worried about this site. Glad to see it back up.

Lowe's, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware should all have metric. I don't know if they'll have an M8 that's 5mm long. I'd use a cutoff wheel rather than a grinder.

Good, just had to check...

Now we're getting somewhere!

I was commenting that the fuel line may be factory formed, leading to how tight it's been since new. I was not talking about fuel injection. Auto Doc suggested that the fuel line could be factory formed.

Are the 2 connectors in the upper right of your pic the VR wires? They look questionable to me. Are they good connections?

I'd say we need to look at the input voltage to the regulator, if the ground is good. Hopefully someone who is more familiar with that engine will speak up, but it's gotta be the yellow or red wire going to the VR. I'd check voltage on both of them, with engine running. One should be...

Are you wetting the needle?

Thanks. That's about what I figured with the ground wire/case thing, but those were all I noticed from the picture. So, I agree, trace that gray wire. If you have a voltmeter, check resistance to ground.

I would check to see if I can make the noise by moving the blade with engine OFF, clutch disengaged. That should be easy enough to tell. Some kind of debris could have kicked up into that area and bent something... Something down there could have come loose also. Check all the pulleys to see...

Thanks for the clarification.

So, are you saying you changed the oil again? Have you done anything to check the carb needle/seat? That new carb could be leaking and continuing to cause problems.

What's that broken off white wire in the connector under the VR? The VR looks a bit twisted in relation to the mount point. If that how the original was? Is the case of the VR metal, or plastic? It looks like the connector on that gray wire is touching the outside edge. Hmmm.

That may be it, he says it's been like this since new.

First, if you hydro locked after changing the carb, the carb could have a problem. If the hydro lock was caused by the previous carb, fine, but if it was the new one, you need to address that. A simple way to test is with a transparent fuel line attached to the carb, with the other end held...

Did your carb have a broken spring, or the camshaft. You said you replaced camshaft, why?

Sounds like it's tighter than it is hard. If you get the old filter removed, you may find it very hard to install the new one...

If the line is so hard you can't remove the filter, I'd replace it. As Slomo said, they deteriorate from the inside out.

That's not nearly as exciting as some of the flaming techniques I've seen video of. It does sound safer, and effective.

I can usually pry it loose with a screwdriver. If not, I'd cut it loose and replace the fuel line.

I agree and I just did that today on one of mine.