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Nothing to be sorry about. I just wanted to point it out because some find it frustrating when they take their time to try and help someone and the OP never posts back whether or not the issue was resolved.

There were a couple of exceptions but for the most part, Kohler CV Single cylinder engines used a 1”X3.16” crankshaft. The main difference was the threads were the bolt went in. Some were metric and some were SAE. The footprint would be the same. The other differences could be the charging...

Many of us have either done it come close to doing it but just FYI, you're responding to a 7 year old post.

Not sure where you might be on this at this point but the starter could seem to be good being tested with no load on it but could still fail under load. If the starter is fried you should be able to smell that. Sniff around the end of the starter where the cable from the solenoid connects...

In that 2 or so minutes that the engine won't restart, have you checked for spark in that time period?

The breather reed is where I was headed with my questions. I wouldn't enlarge the holes but make sure they are open. They are small for a reason.

Are you talking oil into the air filter area via the rubber breather tube?

Something I forgot to ask. Are you running the engine with the air filter off? If so, put the air filter hold down screw back in. Many of those older Briggs would run rich if you tried running them with that screw removed as it would let unwanted fuel come up through that open screw hole.

If I am understanding correctly then, yes. That spring needs to be attached to the diaphram as shown in the diagram below in for lack of a better term the U shaped area on two sides of the rod.

I just worked on my personal 1980 B&S 3.5 and used an aftermarket diaphram. It ran worse that it did before I worked on it. I got a genuine B&S diaphram and it now runs great. Yours may use a different diaphram as my carb is metal not plastic. Got the spring and cup on the carb side of the diaphram?

If you're not hearing the lifters clattering your oil pressure is probably okay. On the Command twins, lifter tick is usually the first sign of low oil pressure. You also won't see much oil running with the rocker covers off. There is no pressurized oil in the upper end. Are you torquing the...

Yeah unfortunately it's a fairly generic troubleshooting list. Everything they list doesn't always apply to your specific engine.

Take your voltmeter and simply attach the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Then take the red lead of your meter and touch it someplace on the case of the starter that is unpainted. Typically, I usually go to the drive end housing near the mounting bolts. Crank the engine and...

Yep, no ACR on any current production Kohler Twin Cylinder engine except in very specific applications. Before you go too far, are you able and willing to do one simple voltage test?

It almost acts like there is an exhaust restriction but let's start simple. Can you give us the part number you used to update the ignition coils? It should have been a kit with two MDI ignition models and a white wire pigtail for the kill.

Right now I wouldn't be concerned with the ignition modules (magnetos as you call them). Until you can get the engine to turn over there is no good way to test them. Once you get the engine to turn over, the way you would test them is to disconnect the white kill lead at each module, connect a...

The early TVXL840s had an issue with the port plugs popping out but once Tecumseh got that straightened out those were great engines with a lot of torque. They even made one with a Lawn Boy tapered crankshaft that came with a mounting adapter to fit the Lawn Boy deck. They looked pretty ugly on...

I may as well ask a question or two of RK and throw my opinion in. Before you took anything apart and started jumping wires, what exactly did the machine do when you turned the key to try and start the engine? Did it do absolutely nothing as if someone had removed the battery? I ask this...

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for coming back and letting us know. That's exactly why we were asking asking about your testing method. I don't know if you were using a tester that is something like the pic below but if so you're far from the first person to get fooled by it. It...

It is true that you may have ruined both of your ignition modules and it's also true that you may not have. If your CV20 still has the original 24 584 01-S modules they are probably toast or at best have been compromised. A module that should have lasted the life of the engine will at best have...

When you put it back together make sure the taper on the crankshaft and the taper inside the flywheel is clean and dry. Torque to 55 ft lbs. There will be those who say they do it all the time with no issues but my recommendation is never use an impact on a flywheel fastener to remove or...

Well, if the key is good then ignition timing should be good as long as the air gap on the ignition modules is correct. The only other timing is valve timing and that shouldn't change as long as you got the timing marks on the cam and crank aligned properly. There is a very slim chance the gear...

You had they flywheel off when you checked the key?

It could be an issue with getting good fuel flow through the valve but do you know for sure you're getting good fuel flow to the valve?

This may help. Kohler calls for changing the oil and oil filter every 300 hours according to the above info I snipped from their KT owner's manual. That's a fairly recent change. They used to state, change the oil every 100 hours and the oil filter every 200 hours. No matter how often you...

You may already have this info but in case you don't.....

Did you adjust the valves with the piston at TDC? If so were you on TDC compression or TDC exhaust?

Will it start right back up or does it need to sit a while before it will start again? I just noticed you started another thread on this same issue earlier in the week and from that description I may be thinking something different than you about stall. Does it just start running like it's...

Technical service and education. Which included training new Kohler technicians, answering technical calls and approving or unfortunately sometimes denying warranties.

Just curious here. Are you saying the Courage single is or was (it hasn't been built since 2018) built in China?

I would agree. At this point trying to rebuild this engine, if it indeed has failed as described, would not be the way to go. Your engine failed so my opinion really doesn’t help your issue, but I would have to strongly disagree with your mechanic’s assessment of the Kohler Courage Twin cylinder...

That's why I was asking about the ignition testing method to try and rule that out. Did you actually test compression and get 35 psi because even with a compression release 35 psi would be extremely low. 70 psi would be more reasonable but a leak down test is the best way to check and engine...

Sometimes it just happens that way. Thanks for the update.

Is your tester something like one of these?

They are pretty much the same engine but just to clarify because there are a few differences, a CH16 would be a horizontal engine. CV would be a vertical. CH=Command Horizontal and of course CV=Command Vertical. Those engines did have variable timed ignition with a speed advance module but if...

How about the fuel itself? You've eliminated the carb and fuel delivery as being an issue by trying another carb and gravity feeding fuel (assuming to the carb?) but was this all done with the same fuel?

Not trying to offend here so hope you don't mind me asking, how do you know it has good spark? What was your testing method?

How did you check ignition? And you didn't mention anything about trying a new spark plug.

Okay I have to ask. What happened that it needs two pistons and two heads? It's just unusual that it would fail both sides at the same time. You're probably not really looking for another Kohler at this point but the Kohler 7000 series engine would let you use your existing exhaust so you...

Probably the least likely reason the fuse blew but the easiest to rule out would be an over charging situation. If you have a voltmeter check the voltage at the battery with the engine running at full speed. It should be between 13.8 and 14.7 VDC. If that checks out good, then as someone...

I'll start with the simplest things I can think of, but if you turn the key to try and start it and it reacts as if someone took the battery out of it, the first thing I would check would be the fuse and fuse holder. If the fuse blew no power could get to the fuel solenoid and that would kill...

I'm no help with an asking price but I do have a couple of questions toward still trying to repair it. I apologize if I've missed it, but have you checked compression? And now after running it and seeing the smoke, what's the oil level?

Once it gets bad enough that it dies, will it start right back up?

Carb spray. When it starts acting up, carefully spray the seam and the ends at the head.

In the video it sounded like it was either starving for fuel or getting air it shouldn't be getting. Either way it seemed lean to me. But that's just one opinion. If that engine has a plastic intake manifold, they have been known to separate at the seam and also leak at the o-rings where it...

Okay good. When it goes to die, will giving it a bit of choke help at all?

Pull the tube that goes from the rocker cover to the fuel pump. Is there any evidence of fuel in that tube?

When it's warm and acting up like in the video, how does the engine run if you just let go of the levers and sit still? And if it seems to straighten out while sitting still what does the engine do if you move the throttle to idle?

Yes. Sometimes just a little load can show that it's not working correctly.

Yes I think that is very possible. The blower housing will need to come off to know for sure but the nice thing is the housing holes are slotted so those screws wouldn't have to be completely removed.