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One pound of grease sitting in a cavity that will never, ever lubricate one damn thing. And odds are the friggin bearings are 2RS and zero grease will ever get to them anyway.

But there are those seeking help who are easily distracted by shiny things, who know nothing of mechanics or the operation of mechanisms. They just don't. There's a post this week by a guy who has become obsessed with the shape of a fuel filter. Shape. Not function, not direction of flow....just...

...and just think....those will likely be the people who can fix stuff. They don't teach logical thinking in public education.

Age. And not having been taken apart and cleaned, lubricated, brushes checked.....you need someone who has done all this before.

It cranks, just won't start and run. Reread their post. Ether was involved.

Stop it. Just making it worse.

Don't start what they can't finish.....

Swing-back / Pivoting Blade Systems (most relevant match): MEG-MO blades: These use a central disc with short pivoting knives/tips that swing away from obstacles like rocks or debris. They are marketed to prevent bent blades and spindle damage. They work on various mower types (including...

Parts cannon guy....

Still working with chips.....

Ensure you have the correct coil for the replacement side.....there is a left and a separately numbered right. They are not interchangeable: The left and right coils are cylinder-specific. Swapping them can cause issues like no spark, weak spark, or misfiring on one or both cylinders. Service...

Yeah....remove the problems. 🙄

Pre owned and returned....

Why? I'd have ripped that brake crap off long ago.

Bad Boy does the same....almost. Before fully warming up must use choke briefly. Full throttle to engage blades. I have a soft start on the blade clutch that really eases the clutch into full engagement. If you engage at less than full....yes it bogs down.

Part number.....

🤫🙄

Small bladed straight screwdriver or an oring pick. Insert between hose ID and filter, give it a drop of silicone spray or something slippery, let it sit for a minute, work the blade around the ID....

Geeez! These are not car carbs. 7 pounds is way overkill. 1 to 1.5 psi max is all you need, preferably the former.

Didn't run a compression test did ya. Not the "does it have compression" test but a differential test to determine where the oil is coming from. Could be a broken ring, worn cylinder, both, valve seals, etc.

5 pounds? Hell, 1 pound is more like it. This is not a car....

Failing coils won't consistently surge.

Hydro-Gear does not list a dedicated public service/repair manual specifically for the 350-0510 on their site. However:The 310-0510/-0610/-0710 Service and Repair Manual (BLN-51260) is the standard reference used for this family of transaxles. Users and forums (including recent discussions on...

Nice build. Just about any small fuel pump these days will work fine. You may also need a pressure regulator to drop the pressure to 1 psi as most are above that by 1.5 psi or higher. These inline pumps are all pretty much the same design. Check to see if they have check valves or anti siphon...

Looks like you have a rubberized version. Yes, rubber and alcohol are not compatible. Have you ever looked for an acetate or Teflon diaphragm? There are kits available and depends on how old the engine is and which diaphragm you're talking about. Official B&S: Shop.briggsandstratton.com for OEM...

If you use Firefox you can download each part to a PDF then use the Accessibility settings to increase font size. Actually, you can increase font size without download to a PDF....don't know about other browsers but suspect they may have the same capability. Good for you. Most don't want to...

Yeah? Blindness is a curse.....

Voltage....not amps.

Useless endeavour. Mow when it's dry.....

Funny when you look for ethanol and 2024....NAS has nothing to say about it.

Nope....not even close. The latent heat of evaporation from ethanol actually cools the intake charge and engines run cooler because of that fact. Run an engine on methanol....huge increase in latent heat of evaporation. The cylinder will feel cold to the touch when running.

Bull****.

http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/ Try this....a long read. You haven't had trouble with your equipment because all the rubber parts were switched over to Buna-n round 1980.

Prove it.

Don't know anything about fuels do ya. E85 is 85% ethanol. It would run fine on 85% ethanol IF The jets were properly sized. They're not hence the choke. E85 runs way richer than E0 or E10 or E15. Why? Ethanol has 26.68 MegaJoules per kilogram, gasoline has 42 to 44 MJ. Takes a lot more ethanol...

Zero effect.

Won't know....🙄

Stop torturing the guy.

Typical parts cannon.

Bearing substitution.....as in same manufacturer and same specs? No mower manufacturer makes their own bearings. So whatever the mower manufacturer uses is the mower manufacturers fault. Even the US manufacturers are sourcing some of their bearings from China. They just happen to show up in a...

I never feel bad for the front line folks. Ever.

Bearings are a dime a dozen. The bearing identifier is right on the outside face of the outer race of the bearing. Whatever they charged you for bearings was probably 500% more than you should have paid. And as for 900 hours....sounds like Chinee bearings.

Assuming the wheel base width is something less than 42" . I'd recommend a deck that had slightly more width than the tires as it makes edging possible without dragging the tire across whatever is being mowed,

Cracking where? HDPE can be "welded".....

What crap.

Ethanol in a two stroke keeps it cooler because of the higher latent heat of evaporation. Want a really cool engine...run it with methanol but you'll have to enrichen it a fair amount. Also, the effective compression ratio of a two stroke is more like 6 to 7 to 1 in commercial units. High octane...

Either one. Makes little difference. If the equipment is later than 1980 all the rubber parts are changed to Buna N, impervious to alcohol.

One would hope you released the pumps before towing or did you just drag it back. "3. To disengage the pumps (free-wheel position), turn the hydraulic release valves (A, Figure 2) located on the pumps COUNTER-CLOCKWISE a maximum of 2 full turns."