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Yeah....I had a KTM 250 XCW that went to 220 but the head was shaved 40 thousandths and the cylinder trued 5 thousandths and that necessitated using premium to keep from detonating.

Effective compression ratios of piston port two strokes are typically much lower than an equivalent four stroke of the same bore/stroke so there is no apples to apples comparison. Typically two strokes are anywhere from 5:1 to 7.5:1.

Precisely. There is a thing as too much lubrication. Are the balls supposed to skid or roll. I'll take roll every time. Too much creates a hydrodynamic wedge of lubricant just ahead of the ball and with nowhere else to go the lubricant makes the ball, with whatever tolerance is left to the ball...

No. Float No. Float/Needle just regulates flow depending on the fuel pressure. If pressure is too high it overpowers the Float/Needle. 1 psi is enough. Little electronic pumps can run continuously.

Differential tester....

1-877-473-6767, dial #2 to reach NGK support. You send them images of a suspect fake plug and they confirm whether it is or not. Champion may have the same service. Fake Chinee plugs are a real thing.....

Mentioned not to induce doubt but perhaps a search for those who have done the replacement and reported different results. Also in the world of engineering, it's a mower and not an airplane or a car or truck whipping down the road with 80 tons with something about to happen. My guess is it's fine.

Untill it draws a vacuum.....

In the engineering world, stiffer and stronger aren't always the answer. The loads just get transferred somewhere else. Hope this is a correct solution for ya.

This is 4 3/4 Don Dye, US made. If you can find a 4 1/4 for yours. Mine lasted 525 hours. There are two others that have been relubed and are as tight as day one. Chopper is using quality stuff for some parts, can't vouch for all, tho. I know Bad Boy has gone for the cheap Chinee stuff now.

Not all pulleys are the same....Chinee crap fails quickly, as in 8 hours in my case. And this is the stuff Bad Boy was selling.....

Valve head.....or seat.

After about 500 hours on the ignition the coil is suspect. "The Briggs & Stratton 594626 magneto coil (also called an armature-magneto or ignition coil/armature) includes a transistor as part of its solid-state electronic ignition system.". That's a lot of heat and cycles for a coil. And...

Huh. My FD731v uses zero per hour, zero between changes. 550 total hours.

Hung up on zink. 🤫👍

Read and learn..... https://www.hydro-gear.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/BLN-52503_P10.pdf You should have a PR series....should be some ID on the pump.....

Vertical is much more controllable but now you may end up with fuel feed problems depending on length of time climbing and descending...and that leads to electric fuel pump in 1 to 2 psi range. Got headlights? Use that circuit to control on/off. I would not cut horizontally unless you had some...

Had a three day ice storm in S Central OK many years ago. Power was out for a week. Had a nice new big Lopi that kept the house warm even tho I had propane heat but didn't want to use it because wood was cheaper than the propane and there isn't all that much satisfaction watching a furnace run...

Gasoline is entering the compustion chamber as a vapor as well during normal operation, same as propane.

In South TX I doubt you have to worry about anything icing up.....

Yes...there will be an adjustment unless you want to run lean with propane. Stoichiometric ratio for propane is 15.5:1, gasoline is 14.7:1. The propane required per unit time is greater than gasoline therefore the orifice must be larger to pass the greater amount required. If injected, which I...

Why? What you think is irrelevant. What you can prove scientifically is relevant.

Nope. Backwards. Propane 1 gallon=91,452 Btu Motor gasoline 1 gallon=120,214 Btu Stoichiometry Mass. . . . Vol. . . % by mass Propane (LP)15.5 : 123.9 : 16.45% Gasoline . . . . . . . . . . 14.7...

Well....what can I say. Got me. FD731V.

What a moron. TB1207B is RTV. "But the original factory white sealant on those lower crankcase mating surfaces was most likely ThreeBond TB1211 (or a very close Kawasaki-branded equivalent). TB1211 is a white, lower-viscosity, oxime-type RTV silicone that was widely used by Kawasaki and other...

Just a heads up on older Kawasaki water cooled engines. Have a 26 year old Kawasaki FV731V with fairly low hours however when the factory built this engine they used an RTV that was not friendly to antifreeze. It has just a fair rating in that use and should never be used in contact with...

Nobody is setting the cone offset. It's a nail. You can't ( well I assume most won't but there will be those who try) set a cone offset to the blade hole.

My edges aren't serrated. Doubt anyone else's are either... So...why do JD tell you the "Blades are sharp" when they're not. Sharp: adapted to cutting or piercing: such as : having a thin keen edge or fine point Engineering sharp: A) The thinness of the edge (sharpness) as quantified...

You don't know crap about physics....just like your imaginary friend. 🤫🤪

Why do you need "two cutting edges"? Every chef in the world would be slapping their forehead right about now.

Tell ya what.....drive a big spike into that beam and hang a tire and wheel assembly from the lug nut/stud hole....betcha it "balances" every time. Whoever "Terryl" is doesn't know crap about physics......and yes, lots of physics were used in the space shuttle.

Tell ya what.....drive a big spike into that beam and hang a tire and wheel assembly from the lug nut/stud hole....betcha it "balances" every time. Today's lesson in "rocket science".... Does the force at the end of a mower blade inctease linearly with rpm No. The (centrifugal) force at the...

Not to mention but water is a crappy lubricant......esp in tight tolerance machinery.

And you're starting above the centerline of the blade. Just where do you think the majority of the mass is now? 🤫

I've seen bad advice before....this is at the top.

Screwdriver "trick" is crap....you already fail when the balance point in now at the edge of the hole and not in the center of the hole. That is the reason for the cone.

"Easy" isn't always what you think it is.....🤫👍

Do you have that valve guide in your hand? And no...hex sizes don't change magically.

Wasted grease. Just what everybody needs to do when perhaps one hundreth of that amount is actually needed. 🤫🙄

And this begs the question.....does anybody, except for mechanics, ever really listen to their equipment for odd noises, grinding, rough running. I'll bet the bearings on this thing were just grinding away for some time as evidenced by the "fall apart" comment. Corrolary....largest...

Real bearings that aren't Chinee. Open up a Chinee bearing when new and see the couple of small dabs of something, usually white, but probably renderings from the pig they just killed.

That's the "Screw You Moron" grease fitting. Most spindle bearings are of the 2 RS (2 rubber seal) with a few being 1 RS. Those with metal shield will be -Z or -2Z. Eating grease gets old and hard over a couple of years. The 2RS is easy to service without removal from the spindle. A very small...

How many hours on the engine?....Coil on one side. Guess.

Replace the belt....

Could be the stud was backing out and the repeated side load snapped in the threads, the weakest point. Look carefully at the broken end....shiny is new fractured dull is old existing fracture...usually.

A 10mm hex may not be a 10mm stud. And torque into aluminum will be far less....

7/16 is 11mm.

A few drops of gas thru the plug hole has always been my go to.

Was it not being screwed in all the way? Limited by external structure?🤔 That would be really unexpected....😁

Take out the Stop. No head removal. Take out the spark plug and insert screw driver blade. Apply pressure to the driver against piston.Turn engine over by hand til the blade is pushed out the maximum it can go befire it starts to retreat with the piston going down. This is one of two top dead...