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Don't waste your time and money on JB. Get some plastic welding rods. SAME material as the tank. I'm fixing my trimmer tank waiting on some HDPE rods. Look on yours for the material type. Should be HDPE??? If so, these are very slick plastics. Getting at epoxies don't stick well even scuffing...

Most have a fancy circuit chip you can't test with common tools. It either sparks at low, mid and high revs or not. This ain't the space shuttle fella's.

Go ahead and start your own post please. Thank you........

Go to youtube. Search Jim Jackson. Dude has tons of great Snapper RER videos. This is NOT the video that shows you how to fix yours. Just a simple introduction to Jim Jackson. https://www.partstree.com/models/25066-81007-snapper-25-rear-engine-riding-mower-6hp Looks like it has been...

Put a rag down to catch the gas. Drop the bowl. Would be nice if you had a shut off valve to control the gas leak. Look at the float and see when it closes off the fuel. Float arm should be parallel or just under parallel to the bowl mounting flange. By just under I mean the float shuts off...

Cover the new switch in marine grade shrink wrap. Has glue that ooozes out when you shrink it down. Seals both ends from moisture and future corrosion. This is an ultra low amperage slash voltage circuit. No issues of overheating. Just grounds the coil out when killing the key/engine...

Did you check the float height? People never do this one.

Set it for 4 smoke engines.

If you don't have the correct tool just make one as you did.

Funny how insurance companies allegedly give women cheaper rates because they are "better" drivers than men. Why is it at ever wreck we all see some woman on her cell calling mommy? Think the cheaper rate deal and women is and was a sales gimmick. Are they really getting lower rates...

Also if you think about it, trying to mulch AND get a clean cut doesn't work. Simply side sling and get the clippings out of the cutting edges way. Be like using a clogged up double edge razor with a heavy beard growth. Best looking lawn cutting is the old school bagging method. Mulching...

New blades are never sharp. They typically have paint all over. These are not double edge shaving blades. Can you mow with new blades, yes. Most people think shining the bevel with some magic wonder tool of the week grinder is sharp enough. Once the bevel shines they are done. Never even...

An immediate engine kill, look for a bare spot or mice chewed wired on the coil kill wire. Check the harness from key to coils. All the safeties too. Some wire is shorting out on you. If your carb has an after-fire solenoid on the bottom of the bowl, test it. Connect 12 volts to the two wire...

You can make your own primer bulb. Need to pressurize the carb fuel bowl. Barb hose fitting some hose and a primer bulb. When you hit the bulb, pressurized air makes gas shoot up into the venturi. Or T off the fuel line into a primer bulb and hose going to a home made wooden carb spacer into...

If you say so. Pretty close anyway.

Get rid of the wingnuts. They only loosen with time and not charge the battery. Think those are worse than these emergency ONLY types people love to use. Toss these in the can too.

Tell your neighbor to clean the engine cooling fins while you have it opened up. These are air cooled engines.

Double nut to remove the studs. Or a 7 or 8mm closed end wrench or 6 pointed only socket. No 12 point sockets here.

They are called power washers. Or degreaser and scrub brushes plus a garden hose. Foaming glass cleaner, old paint brush and compressed shop air. Take your pick. Getting at you need to CLEAN the engine like a NEW ONE prior to opening the engine up. Why? All that piled up grit and trash can and...

How many months does it take to get 100 hours on your mower? At minimum, change the oil yearly. If you have a lot of exposed dirt slash no grass under trees and the like, change more often. Why not do it twice a year? Only talking about a quart and a half of oil per. Not like you are draining...

Pictures never lie. Just saying your words don't sound like you are confident they got cleaned. If you neglect the cooling fins, look for engine damage. This is not something to put off or glaze over. I'll go with 2% effectiveness here. Not a total waste of time and product but near it. Better...

Also need to look at de-carboning the cylinder/s. Cleaning all the carbon out of the cylinders and on slash behind the valves. Look in YOUR engine manual for more info. Needs to be done every 5-8 years roughly. Why do this? Because chunks of carbon can and do flake off getting between the rings...

Match one off of ebay. Don't buy the cheapest listing you can find. I've had better luck buying a listing that is say 10 bucks over the cheapest listing. Must admit, lately, I've had good luck with Chinese carbs. Was a big fan of OEM carbs. These cheapos just work for ME. I do go over any...

Guessing you do not know how to look up your engine parts right? Do you have Google at your house? Oh I get it. We ARE your Google. Never mind LOL Google your engine make and type in parts. So Kawasaki mower parts for example. Parts sites will pull up in Google. Click on a parts web site. Put...

I will keep it out of my engines. Do as you guys wish in yours.

My take, on a 27 year old engine, she needs some love. 1.Valves clearances ran 2.All cylinders de-carboned per yours and every other mower engine manual out there. Should be done say every 5-9 years depending on usage. Look at your engine manual to find out more. 3.Number 2 leads to number 3...

I wouldn't add anything but a good SAE 30W if it was MY mower. Marvel has solvents and a thin base oil that will degrade the viscosity. Maybe if she was water cooled?? A good oil is critical as well as CLEAN cooling fins.

Post engine model and serial numbers here. Any and all numbers you can find. Pictures of the numbers are even better.

A rock bar or two and a couple 4x4 wood blocks can move mountains. Or some cinder blocks for jacking vertically.

Think they are called rock bars. I have a couple in the garage. Stout heavy steel with a chisel end and the other is a hammering like blob of steel. Guess they are called different things depending on manufacturer.

Use some marine grade heat shrink over your repair. Prefer soldering and heat shrinking. Hobo Freight has a kit that works good at $6.99. https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html?hftm_sc=3567&hftm_source=google

Why would you not top off the gas AND OIL, prior to EVERY MOW? Oil ON the full mark, not under nor over. Old wise smart folks would walk the property picking up log chains, bikes, engine blocks, cars, cinder blocks, branches and so on prior to mowing.

Also the cam lobe the points get opened and closed on wears too. Simple wear and tear.

How are you going to test this?

From where to where exactly? OEM or did you save money again on Amazon? Any new pump will demand testing. Clean where, on the outside or was every jet pulled, emulsion tube cleaned and float height set proper? Sometimes people say they cleaned the carb. Only to find out in pictures later they...

Sounds like you bought the wrong mower.

Not a conclusive test. Switch over to Ohms. Even better a milli Ohms scale. Looking for a dead short or as close to.

Hold up on that car wash gentlemen (Smokey and the Bandit). What happens if you spray any flavor of oil on a lawn mower? It will collect dirt, grass and grit right? Grit will wear out everything it touches. How about foaming glass cleaner and shop air? Maybe use the wife's toothbrush and scrub...

I still have a dope Craftsman inductive in my box of tricks. Another reason why I preach about open gap adjustable spark testers. We need to stress these coils out. Also run the engine at low, mid and high revs looking for no spark failures. Some will spark at low revs only to fail at mid and...

8 years old, probably needs valves ran and cylinder's de-carboned per his engine manual.

As in someone cutting the key off? Or does it stumble down in revs slowly until she dies?

Make sure you ground the tester to clean metal. Most I see place a plug on the painted engine block and not get spark. A simple test light can be used too. Connect the clamp to the negative battery post or clean engine block. The probe end inside your plug boot. You can move the tip away from...

Pull fuel line off AT carb inlet. Drain it into a glass jar. WATCH the gas flow. Let it flow about a full quart. This will show good flow or not AND your tank cap vent is working or not. Remember to crank the engine. If she drains ok for a bit then stops, open your tank cap. See if the vent...

Pull the coil off. Polish the area where the screws sit, both sides and the pads where the coil sits on the engine block. Coil needs a clean ground path to work proper. Yours is all rusted up. Better yet buy a new coil. With all the heat and vibes these mowers take. Mice chewed wires are no...

Not to mention the older machines are built better than these new ones. Repowering can be done in a few hours. Not changing a cruise ship engine out.

Stick with non Ethanol Unleaded 87 octane. Your engine was made for it.

How old are the fuel lines from tank to carb?

Another reason to test spark with an open gap type spark tester. You can open the gap up and stress the coil out. Light bulb types you can't. Looking at your coils, I would of started with polishing the area where the screws go and the pads where the coils sit. Coils need a good ground to...

What type of fuel can spout do you have and use? Open top or closed with o-rings like these? Far right spout is a no-go failure. Middle spout is good. You can buy spouts using your old can.