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Star got ahold of a MM that measures capacitance... 27.52uf so it's good. I asked neighbor more questions and he said the engine ran "rough" and he and electrician could only test generator with 1/2 throttle??? I'm gonna pick up on ILENGINE suggestion and go to engine side. Neighbor said...

Ahhhhhh light shines on marble head.... Thanks Star!

Thanks ILENGINE I did notice the choke was on 1/2 way. Will put a tach in it and measure. Pulled off the OG84440101 It's 28uF part not 47uf as wiring diagram stated. Diagram has Rev E ECO chain so I wonder if 47uf was a phase in part. This unit was built in 2009 Measured with 2 different...

Interesting... I did find the part on Generac website, my bad as I was using "g" instead of G. Let's see what Generac support says on 28uf .vs 47uf as well as getting to root cause. Thanks again Star!!!

Good catch Star!!! I pulled the pn from the parts list. Where did you get the info 0G84440101 is 28mf? I'm going to call them on Mon. Thanks!

Generac Model: 0056260 Serial: 5452944 (don't know the build date) Unit is basically/looks new, however it only outputs 110v not 120v and (while testing) blown out LED bulbs and Alexa devices. Trying to help a neighbor who wants to give to me and go buy another generator. Pulled the schematic...

Can someone please point me to a PDF of the B&S 440000 Series Service Manual? I have a 24HP B&S 445677-1188-B1 OHV Twin engine. I searched online for part number 273521 however it points me to a PDF for 276781 which is for single cylinder OHV engines. Thanks!

Finished the other head today and fired it up. Was able to clean head in 2/3rds of the time. Plastic blade scrapers help pick off the big stufff, but scothbright pads, acetone and time is all you need. ;)

OK fellas, put her all back together today & checked the torque settings (twice). I did end up adjusting the valve lash both intake/out could not take .006, .005 pretty tight and .004 with resistance. Started right up. Big thank you to StarTech, berstmobile1 and slomo for all the tips, spec...

Pros .vs Joes... Don't expect to see one of these under the tree this XMAS :) https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/08/cleaning-components-with-baking-soda/

:ROFLMAO: Yeah do it right, with you 100% I did it over 3 days... at times I was sitting on the garage bench trying to distract myself as I sang Time in a Bottle. My 1st 2 fingers went numb. :)

bertsmobile1 your exactly who I was thinking... :) I'm plugging away in my garage and the Mrs. will not be happy if a chemistry experiment goes sideways and I win a Darwin Award . Big difference between "Pros" and DIY stiffs. ;) Oiy!

:ROFLMAO: thanks, yeah got a bit **** on the clean-up, but want to do it correctly. To me your a "shop guy" while I'm just a grasshopper.

Yeah I was also thinking paint thinner, but did not want to try something not recommended by the shop guys. Window cleaner (ammonia) is interesting too. Thanks for the tips. I said to myself no way a shop guy is going to clean a head and piston for 8+ hours :)

OK slomo, yeah know what you mean. I've used oven cleaner with those nasty fumes. I'll give heat a try on the other head gasket project. Will let her sit on the black driveway while I have my morning coffee. It's in the 90s here in the U.S. Northeast, then rinse & repeat.

You weren't kidding slomo... cylinder head took ~8 hrs, the piston took about 1.5 hrs and was much easier to clean using plastic scrapper and scothbrite pads. Started with Seafoam and then switched to acetone which seemed to do better on carbon. Is naphtha any better? Waiting on a seal-o-ring...

Thanks berstmobile1 for another tip. I think I may as well do the other head gasket as well. :) Probably has a slow leak as well given plug looks a little oily as well. I now have a scope to look in side.:)

Yeah the factory bead spread pretty good and took a while to clean up with plastic tool and fingernails :)

Thanks slomo on it! Also The B&S 690971 gasket had note stating that if engine was not originally equipped with gaskets, to use silicone gasket sealant. Is this religion? as why would pros take all the labor time of cleaning up both the valve cover & head .vs using gaskets? Also if you are...

Update: Looks like the wooden dowel bonehead move was a disguised debug tool. Gasket looks wet on the right and it explains why plug was a little wet. Engine burns very little oil, but the visual explains what I could not see. At TDC compression valves were at .005 so they are within spec...

Thanks Star! :) :)

Star this engine head has 5 bolts (4 outside and 1 bolt inside rocker cover) I assume by pattern you mean top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left) Should I do the 5th bolt after doing the 1st 4 in a criss cross pattern?

Thanks slomo, I have the the crank ones (must always return to 0) before next setting. Wished I had the old tools, made right just like old lawn equipment. :)

Thanks StarTech for all the fastener torque specs I have a 1/4 inch torque wrench that goes up to 200 in lbs. which will cover all of the above except head bolts. Will use the 3/8 torque wrench in ft lbs and set it to 25 ft lbs (300 in lbs / 12) = 25 ft lbs.

Yeah I already tested the intake & exhaust manifold bolts and they moved easily. Will use anti seize for ones I loosen and yes exhaust should just lift right out of muffler while attached to head. I have a 1/4 torque wrench in inch lbs. and a 3/8 in ft lbs. As a retired engineer (who...

OK Star old school is fine by me especially if you have done many, many, many times. If the spec is .004/.006 for both intake and exhaust (44000 series spec) would you set the adjustment to .005? Thanks again

OK bertsmobile I got a decent bore-o-scope $100 US and did a 350 view of piston and no wood dowel seen. Suspect she may be up by cylinder head (above spark plug hole). The gizmo has a little mirror that I'll try next to see if I can pick up in scope. I ordered b&s head gasket, valve cover...

Thanks Star gave both coils a good wire brushing including blower magnet (very rusty & gap way off) set gap to business card. Are you suggesting that the most foolproof way for a DIYer to adjust valves is to just do TDC of each valve independently regardless of the stroke: compression, power...

@Tinker200 BTW your email address bounced, checked it twice. Thanks

@Tinkerer200 Attached is what if found on the B&S Website, maybe I did not explain well. I'll send you email as well. Thanks

Thanks Bertsmobile1, you have helped me out in the past! You think flooding the cylinder with gas might get it to float to grab? Trying to think of some clever way to grab it, while I have the engine head horizontal. If I go the head gasket route, will I need any special tools to compress the...

Thanks Star, wish I had pulled the blower housing 1st instead of being a bonehead! :)

2009 Craftsman model 917.289250 with 24HP B&S 445677-1188-B1 OHV Twin engine. 180 hrs on it and the past few seasons was beginning to hard start (8-10 secs) before turnover. When measuring 1/4" backoff from TDC on compression stroke-- a 1/4" wooden dowel sliver (~1/2") split diagonally and...

(y) If you are handy get an OEM rebuild kit, if not you can roll the dice on cheap carb at prob 50:50 odds. All depends if tinkering is fun for you.

I think bertsmobile1 hits the cause of most of the problems with ethanol gas. Many many variables as cited in the thread, but root cause is ethanol gas draws water. If your tank/container is full/topped off and sealed (no loose caps) air (H2O) can't condense into water (H2O). I always keep...

:ROFLMAO: poison ivy, mouse ear hawkweed, cinquefoil, etc.

Maybe instead of a fence you could create a little flower island strip and put up some nice tall ornamental grasses which look nice and give you some privacy as well given you mentioned small lots.

Maybe you have already done this since you stated this mower needs some maintenance. Have you dropped the deck from the mower to get at the blades? It is much easier to flip the deck over, use about 6" of a 2x4 to wedge blade against deck wall as you use 1 hand on bolt socket and other hand...

2nd the Stabile Storage & Techron. Maybe ancedotal with my small sample set of equipment. I've been burnt by the moisture in gas on both 2 & 4 stroke carbs. I use about 15 gallons of gas every 6 months (winter/summer), so here is what I use: 92 octane with both Stabil Storage & Techron...

Looks like he's got the deck set pretty low to the ground and cutting very overgrown grass and/or he's going over big patches of bone dry aggregate. Signs of sand, pebbles and dirt by the wear marks on lift area. Jeez the wear on the blade edge isn't from just grass IMHO.

I'd 2nd what StarTech says. A few years ago I had tranny problems and it was one of the idler pulleys made of PVC not metal. It was shredded as you can imagine with friction over time. Bearing could be shot as well.

I've found the hard way up here in the U.S. Northeast; when you are getting ready to store the rider mower for the winter in the old shed: 1. after last use, make sure you leave the mower outside the shed with hood open and let the engine cool to *cold* again 2. then push the mower in the shed...

Yeah she probably will work, however I was referring to she may not give you that 1200 psi or whatever rating the pump claims. Good luck I hope you get the power washer back in service. :)

@Smurfy76 I'm with bertsmobile1. I have a Honda pressure washer that is sitting in my shed as a future project. The engine is fine while the pump (#2) never has been the same on a nice engine. I'm pretty sure it's the pump for you as he suggested a few times. I have a Suzuki pressure...

If you are handy I'd vote for repair. As long as the deck is fully functional, rust is OK looks aside. Also, hopefully you store (shed, garage, etc.) the mower rather than keep outside.

Maybe another option, not sure how suitable for you-- how about treating those weeds with a herbicide option then you can be all good again with with your current battery pack mower? Maybe point out to the Mrs. that you are storing gas in the garage if you have car(s) parked in it. :)...

If you are handy you may want to consider getting a used older (better built) model and working on it. See if you can connect with locals in the repair/commercial space. An acre is not that big so don't think you need a commercial grade & price mower. Good luck.

I'm with Mparr here. I had a similar issue about 8 years ago where it was getting gradually more difficult to engage the deck to the point that I cracked the mower clutch. Also make sure you have the right clutch cable for your mower, not a cheap substitute. Maybe you can keep deck on the...

Dunno you'd be surprised how little (parts not labor) is required to get a discarded piece of equipment running again. Based on what you have described, (assuming good compression) I'd still give it a go. I've found Poulan easy to work on and the older ones are repairable. If the primer bulb...