Search results

leave that extension alone, it just converts the spline shaft to the opposed D style extension for the plastic gear to sit on top of, then the wheel has the same notches so you can turn it about 1/4" at a time with each notch this is the adapter that sits on the top end of the shaft for the...

craftsman is super easy, under the the steering wheel there are two little tabs you push to release the snap on cover, under it there is a nut and big washer to remove, then the steering wheel can simply be lifted up and turned until the notches line up so its straight again or close to it.

startech has you covered, but if you have ever changed the spindle and still have the old spindle somewhere, the top pulley nut is the same part number

this is a good video that shows it, he uses a pry bar on the engine but i dont think thats something you should ever do or you could crack the block if you put too much pressure on it, i just hold upward pressure lifting flywheel with my hand and whack it with a 4 lb maul a few times until it...

i agree with this ^^^^^

he is talking about that long teeny tiny itty bitty spring threaded onto the throttle linkage arm that connects to the governor linkage arm on the single cylinder engines

good question and i think, but dont know 100% for sure, i think its just there to hold it in place because it doesnt seem to serve any other function and i find it disconnected and/or broken on a lot of mowers yet they run fine without it

hes not grabbing random parts from a junk yard, he would be using the oem charging system that came with the mower, so its an exact perfect matched system if he wasnt using the oem parts from the original engine i wouldnt be suggesting he use them without checking the specs

yep, that sounds like the very common blown head gasket issue. its an easy fix if you are mechanical the head design has a weak point with no bolt on one side because thats where the valve push rods pass through so that where the gasket blows and you start smoking and burn oil and also get oil...

well its a simple matter to put it back in original condition to charge the battery. if you dont you will ruin your battery in short order and those battery dont last very long if you dont keep draining them down. all you need in an impact gun to remove the flywheel bolt or nut and a 1/4" nut...

my rule is, a battery is cheap, when in doubt just replace it a battery can read 12v and still not allow current to flow but you should still be getting at least a voltage reading from it to the solenoid, if not then you have a bad wiring harness and need to run a new wire all that said, if...

i have had a coil kill wire chaff and selectively shut the mower down when it manages to touch something, usually after it got hot so it was softer which i guess allowed it to touch. this is why i say keep a spare plug in your pocket to test it, i never said change parts and "assume" anything...

carry a spark plug in your pocket, the moment it dies pull the plug bot and plug in the other spark plug and test for spark i bet the coil is bad and cuts out when its hot another thing to check, or just replace is the fuel line, it could be restricted so its not able to refill the bowl as...

assuming the new carb isnt defective, there must have been some trash dislodged in the fuel line when you reconnected it. pull the crab and float and clear the blockage keeping the float needle from shutting off. if its clear then you have a bad float needle and/or seat so send the carb back for...

you are forgetting the compression release on lawn mowers if there was no compression release then your data is correct, but with the compression release the force needed to start a lawnmower is like nothing not having to overcome the compression is why its easy and takes far less power to...

adjust your valves just to be sure but check the compression release is working as it should, if its not they i will have a hard time cranking because of that, and that in turn pulls a lot of amps on the solenoid contacts overheating them, adding to the starting issue. also, it doesnt sound...

clean it up a bit with a file then use a 1/2" drive 6 point socket on it with a breaker bar and cheater pipe then with a short block of wood wedged between the shell and blade tip to stop blade from moving it should break lose for you and add a bit of never seize to the threads when...

they call it cold cranking amps but its not as much about the cold, as it is the amperage power it has, but yes cold weather is when you need those amps most but who needs a lawnmower when its cold outside lol the better the cca the more reserve power you have if its hard to start or whatever...

once the mower is in my shop and i have my tools ready, yes its a 5 minute job to pull the cover, flywheel, replace the alternator ring, reassemble and start the engine. any decent mechanic can. if it takes you 45 minutes to do that then you are one sorry mechanic and you should be working at...

remove carb, remove bowl screws, turn bowl and replace screws, that should position it to reach with the wires you have if it doesnt appear that will allow it to reach then yes just cut the wire and add in a short extension

ya those small batteries are a PITA, they use then on the new snapper RER models and as far as i know all the copycat rer mowers as well if you buy the specified battery you are looking at $70 for them i use these and they work great...

well genius you forgot one thing, he wanted to know how to make the voltage regulator still work. its still not gonna function to charge the battery or put out any power until you get switched battery power to that red wire from the regulator and your installing relays is bypassing the...

no, if your mower isnt wired for a regulator on the existing original engine then its not an easy thing and requires rewiring the mower as i mentioned, remove flywheel from old engine an new engines then swap your old alternator over to the new engine. the wires you need will be already...

this ^^^^^^^ my dad fried his entire wiring harness when his craftsman had a rusty ground connection. he turned the key and all the power draw for the starter was pulling through a 16 gauge ground wire and melted the harness from the seat to the engine. the entire grounding circuit for all the...

after the points you made i started comparing both trannys side by side and things are very different under there oh well i guess im stripping and throwing a very nice clean pretty lawn mower out for the scrap metal guy to take seems a shame but not much else i can do at this point

ah ok, i didnt consider things like that, i dont want to "rig" anything as i will be selling it so i just want it reliable and using the same original belts and all that i was only thinking about where the control was and how it functioned i bought the parts mower so im gonna have to sit them...

clearly you didnt put the belts back on the same way they came off pull the deck off and double check the belts are on all the pulleys and in the right direction on the idler pulleys then release the brake and crawl under and the belt should be tight did you drop the crankshaft pulley to...

i havent bought the second mower yet, thats why im asking if it can work i already know 100% they are different tranny but the controls style and locations and the way the control works seem identical so im wondering if they might be a direct swap the push to go mower with the bad tranny is...

you went from an engine with a constant charging system to one that has a voltage regulator for charge on demand only that red wire connects to the battery to read battery voltage to tell the regulator when to allow the engine to sent charging current to the battery. with that said i thing it...

can i swap out a craftsman 6 speed select tranny for the craftsman automatic push to go tranny? as far as i can tell the controls are positioned the same with only the 6 speed having the select able speeds rather then push to go faster has anyone done this or knows if its a simple swap out...

as mentioned, your drive belt applies tension to the drive system, when it gets worn down it starts slipping and you lose speed, most commonly 1st gear

model number and/or pictures would help is it briggs or kohler engine? if its kohler then one of the top cover bolts goes through the air filter housing if thats what you are trying to do. if its just the filter cover then the stud can get stuck in the air filter knob and not unscrewing so the...

snappers are notorious for this, the belt only wears thin on the sides then bottoms out on the pulley and slips replace the belt FYI - the belt on snapper rer always still look new even though they have no life left because they have narrowed too much the idler pulley has 2 notches for the...

yes it does, its for safety you have a spinning guillotine under there and if the front was higher then the back the first contact with an object is the blade and not the deck

check the flap under the rear end that presses on the switch, its on the shifting slide bracket, often they dont quite press it enough and that will prevent starting you can bend it by hand

this ^^^^^^^ but it shows the manufactured date, not the sell date i can see a mower made in 2015 sitting in a warehouse waiting to be shipped out for a year and then be in show room for a year and not selling until 2017 especially if its a high priced mower, so those hours can very well be...

in most cases the first 4 numbers of the serial number give you the month/day/year manufactured but they dont all use the same order, some give weeks in 1-52 weeks of the year but the first 4 numbers will have the year or at least the last number of the year and thats close enough to get a good...

you missed the last zero on your model number here is the parts list https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/4hqx41sh1i-000247/craftsman-917289900-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts?page=2

were you drunk when this idea came to you lol. answer is no, cut with it on highest setting and take it very slow is all you can do at 12" you might be better with a weed wacker to knock most of it down to at least 5"-6" before you try to cut it

that sounds like something with the tranny the shifter shouldnt be hard to move at all but the clutch/brake should be on when you do it. i have found some have a small plastic thing on the shift shaft that can wear and get out of place to make it hard to shift its a very simple system, pull...

lol, WRONG !!! it is there as a backup secondary safety to shut off fuel to starve the engine and shut it down backfiring is only related to timing or improper valve adjustment

its cool, it is and easy mistake to make since its very unusual as far as i know for a twin to have a single barrel manifold and carb the twin carbs can be bought brand new for only $25 and once and a while i have to swap out the old choke arms so the linkages match but otherwise they are very...

ok the jets i had from the carb rebuild kits were small and the one i used in the carb was a little larger then those but the one i found with the bigger hole was just a tad bigger then the other one so i used that and it seems to run pretty good now. but i dont think it still has full...

just about any single cylinder B&S fits it, it has the same bolt pattern for the older metal top cover engines as the new inteks have as well, also kohler engines up to around 15hp i know fit it find a craftsman or murray lawn tractor for sale cheap that needs a deck and swap that engine into...

check for spark, the ignition coil most likely went out, they are like $8 on ebay for a new one but if no spark then disconnect the black ground wire from the coil and see if it starts just to eliminate a safety switch issue such as you forgot to put on the brake before trying to start it

well it sounds like it has something hung up/stuck inside the tranny about all i can suggest is jack the rear end off the ground and spin the wheels as you push and pull on the lever and just hope the rotation of all the gears in it unsticks and engages again

ok, at least i know now im not seeing it because it may not have one lol there are just no carburetor kits for this engine and im not keen on buying a $200 carb i'll try the jet i found that has a bigger hole and see what happens and if thats not enough, i'll break out the drill bits and make...

replace the fuel pulse pump, it has a check valve to prevent a back suction, so thats your problem

ya, im trying to avoid spending $25 to buy a new jet for it. it would literally hurt if i had to spend that kinda money on something the size of a single pellet i will hope the larger one i have makes it run as it should, if not i may try drilling it out (since i have several spares) before...

i just had this with 2 engines, i found these kits were the best way to go https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-for-793880-793583-792681-791942-210702-210807-212702-212707/303242009378?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649