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so you are saying the pulley thats supposed to be free spinning isnt turning? have you unplugged the wire to see if maybe your PTO switch is bad? there should be no reason you cant get the belt back on whether the pulley turns free or not, something isnt right with the way your belt is run or...

this 1000x this ^^^^^^^^ as far as i know and have ever seen, those metal switches are only used for snappers and murray mowers go buy the correct oem switch and then plug it in then undo whatever you tried to do to the wires chances are its this one or one just like it...

thats the great thing about ebay, easy no hassle returns not great when you get a bad one though and you have to wait on another one. good thing you got lucky to find a good spare to rebuild

have you physically removed the fuel shutoff solenoid and verified its not closing after getting hot? they act just like a coil going bad sometimes just be sure to pinch the fuel line or plug it when removing the fuel shut off solenoid or gas will keep pouring out of the bowl

is that the wire connector? i have seen guys solder a new connection but it never lasts, but then what have you got to lose, if it works then seal it up with epoxy but i think PTO are not that expensive any more zip tie the wires out of the way with enough slack it doesnt pull on the wires is...

looks to me like the one in the second picture was in hole #3 (based on the missing paint) but the simple way is lower the deck until both sides hit the ground or use a 1x4 under it if needed, and then adjust the hangers to whatever hole they both line up with regardless of what number it is

assuming you confirmed the sporing that releases the belt is there and working properly, it probably needs a different belt size my guess is they replaced the deck on it with an ayp mower other then craftsman so its got the belt number thats listed on the mower but not for THAT deck i hope you...

not too hard to figure out, some people just dont like the way they see others treated for asking a question, so they avoid that by asking in PMs and they dont have to subject themselves from being belittled for asking a dumb question. when they feel more confident they will ask their questions...

sorry im late to the party, but did you remove the second set screw? the one that is there to prevent the pulley from sliding off of the crankshaft? the key slot is tapered and gets shallower at the bottom so the key cannot move down and out also measure and record exactly how far the plate is...

carb only costs $16 on ebay, buy a new one cant tell you how many hours i wasted chasing surging issues with carbs and some never work right no matter how clean you "think" they are all i can imagine is there are certain crevasses in the internal tiny passages you cant get to that get clogged...

forget about checking ohms, what you do is put spark plug in your pocket and go mowing, when it dies pull the plug wire, plug the plug from your pocket in and hold to engine ground while turning the key. THAT is how you test the coil, then you can test ohms if you want to see just for curiosity...

no solution for the 15.5 hp engine, ended up scrapping it but you were spot on with the 17.5 hp, it had an intake manifold crack that couldnt be seen until the barb bolts were tightened and that opened the crack to cause the surging. replaced the manifold and no more surging on that one. i...

just ask around, someone who fixes lawnmowers will have a flywheel you could buy for like $20 unless they are a crook. they hardly ever need replacing so they get scrapped for scrap metal rather then saved as spare parts, i just keep 2 of each style because of different timing

ya, i was thinking you had a riding mower problem still sounds like restricted or insufficient fuel supply anytime it requires choke to stay running if you can confirm a good gas stream coming from tank to carb, then trash got in the new carb or its defective and needs replacing

that sounds like what happened, you could try to gently drill out the hole with a drill bit just to where the threads start and then see if it starts on the threads, if not then run a tap in it at that point

thats a fuel restriction, you may have ordered or they sent you a carb with too small a jet in it or its defective double check the shut off solenoid is working because sometimes they get bad wire connections and if its not opening thats your problem

thats where im at on the 15.5 hp, i went through all the known causes 3 times already and i just cant waste any more time on it so i bought a parts mower with running engine to swap out and get it working and out the door im going to try going through everything again on the 17.5 and 19.5 and...

have you watched the fuel solenoid function with the key before reassembling it? if its not puilling itself down when the key is on no gas will be sucked up through the carb you can take it off and make sure its working correctly without removing the carb, just be sure to shut off the fuel...

ok thanks, just trying to wrap my mind around what the issue could be i randomly get these engines that have no obvious external issues but refuse to stop surging at least now i know i can rule out a bad cam being a possible cause i just hate to junk running engines because of surging issues...

can a worn out cam be the cause of an engine constantly surging if, low compression, leaking intake, bad gas, carb issues, valve settings, and crank timing have all been ruled out?

update: i got compression readings of 100 psi on 3 separate tests i ran today on the 15.5 hp metal top engine 28n707-1173-e1 hope that helps

thought i had mentioned that as well, yes i used fresh new gas in all of them to be sure it wasnt bad gas also its the same exact gas i am running in several other engines with no issues at all and just to clarify, this isnt just something all 3 engines started doing, these are 3 out of about...

thats what im trying to do here slomo, so i came to the experts because its a bit over my head on this one i confirmed spark, compression (100 psi), and fuel, sealed intake system with no leaks, they all start up easy and run fine, albeit surging while doing it, and i operated the engine by...

the engine will die at slow idle holding butterfly as per your instructions, anything short of full throttle makes it die. by holding the governor arm it runs smooth and steady but only at a fast full throttle rpm and holding the governor arm if the engine stops, even when i "think" its warmed...

the 15.5 hp has the cast aluminum intake, the others plastic i checked them all carefully and even tried swapping it with a spare i had and can find noi leaks on the intake system anywhere on any of the 3 engines i just cant figure this out

i have 3 engines all doing the exact same thing and i rather not scrap them if at all possible they are 19.5hp intek, 17.5 hp intek, and 15.5 hp metal top and all are B&S on all 3 i have used fresh new gas in all of them to be sure it wasnt bad gas, i replaced the carb with a new one (more...

check the valves and test the spark plug is working since a plug can just go bad like that sometimes if it does start with starter fluid 99% of time you have no spark also i think the fresh gas could have loosened up varnish in the gas tank from sitting all that time and that may have sludge...

it wouldnt explain the deck thing, but could you have somehow cause the drive release lever to move? my rule of thumb is, if more then one electrical issue happens all at once check all your ground connections first

as mentioned, the cause is a leaky float needle not sealing so engine floods letting gas leak into crankcase

well if you have one of those inbetween yards where its too much to push but not really enough to need a big mower, then you could pick up a used snapper rear engine rider for it so your not walking the yard in august heat and those snappers will last 30 years easy they are pretty much like a...

i have had a few problems where 2 or 3 out of 12 i bought had to be sent back but its not a big deal and i keep 5 or 6 on hand at all times, i just make sure to test them all when they arrive to be sure they work before i stock them on the shelf. on average i rarely have bad ones but sometimes...

i had 3 parts mowers show up for sale the other day, the ads were 6 minutes, 12 minutes, and 16 minutes old and all 3 had already been sold that damn fast lol i got lucky when one buyer backed out and i was #2 in line so i did get it but man them vulchers are fast snapping up any mower with a...

the way this design works is there are large springs on the back of the deck so as you lower the deck it makes the springs pull the deck back tensioning the deck belt its a variation of the concept used on single speed trannys using the variable pulley to tension the drive belt but in this case...

me i would go buy any pretty looking cheap mower with the same or higher hp rating that i can find and buy for $150 or less and put that engine on the mower you love most. facebook marketplace is full of them and if its the same mfg brand you might get a spare set of tires and seat as well, just...

i like to start with the simple things first, if the air filter made it run ok then its a carb fuel delivery issue the smoking and wet plug on start up is from the carb flooding the engine with gas so go and buy a new carb for it on ebay and that will fix it

if the blade turns and pistons didnt move then no sense wasting time on it the crank and/or piston rod is broken its cheaper to buy another used and/or new mower then try to fix a broken engine, its just simple math

but with all i have said above, as a final confirmation of whats happening inside the engine, i would still pull the plug and stick a screwdriver in the hole to feel the top of the piston and then turn the blade and see if the piston moves, if the piston does go up and down or in and out when...

ya its very strange but if i were to guess i say a tiny fracture finally let go over time, maybe at some point you hit something to fracture it but it never completely separated until now. i just bought a twin cylinder the guy said he was cutting grass with it last week when it stopped like the...

if i recall correctly, the ones i had was a kill switch using switch body to frame grounded connection when key is off and the start was a momentary contact switch across the other 2 pins to activate the starter solenoid after passing through an inline fuse most of those 3 pin switches are on...

no he said he had parts that fell off the tranny he found in the yard and there was still missing parts he couldnt find part numbers for thats why i posted what i did, but your need to feel superior caused you to feel the need to take shorts at others trying to help

thats why i suspect a broken crank since that nut/bolt under the recoiler is what holds the flywheel on the top end of the crankshaft and should turn in unison with the blade what i am talking about is, with the recoil off the engine, you should be able to turn the engine from the top by using...

ebay does have a 100% no questions asked free return policy for full refund if its defective or doesnt work its automatic and you can print your return mailing label on the spot you dont get that from amazon

unless this is something other then a regular engine, the top and bottom are two ends of the same crankshaft, if the bottom moves but the top doesnt then you have snapped off the crankshaft completely it could still be the recoil though so with the plug out try turning the top by hand without...

here you go, but it doesnt look like a separate part so youcan only get it as part of buying the whole tranny https://www.partstree.com/models/yta-22v46-960450051-00-husqvarna-46-yard-tractor-2015-07/drive-2/ you have only 2 choices left, buy a new tranny, or buy a parts mower and take that...

not sure what you mean by "damaged O-ring on the fill side " but your issues are the float needle was leaking gas into the engine flooding it a shut off valve doesnt fix the issue it just stops the leaking issue so replace the carb with a new one on ebay for like $12 and that will stop your...

cut back on your speed when cutting, going too fast (faster then the blade can cut it) is a good explanation, its designed for full coverage with overlap

you use the same bolt pattern right up to the B&S 16.5 hp i think and then when you get to the B&S 17.5 hp and up range the pattern changes

that top end will come off the shaft, the little extension there converts from the splined steering shaft to an opposed D style shaft for the steering wheel gear to sit on. if its stuck on, adjust a crescent wrench to the shaft and then tap it with a hammer and it pops right off i find the best...

if its the drive idler then on the left side of mower, the frame rail just in front of rear tire you see a big hole next to a little hole. thats where the spring goes, hook it to the idler arm and then use a hook or heavy cord to pull the spring end through the big hole and slip the end into the...

first 3 numbers are usually the series design then followed by the actual part numbers, mtd uses 900 and 700 series first 3 numbers for parts most parts show they work for all those first three number combos that each brand uses but some are series specific so the part will show what it fits...