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but isnt going from a 22 hp all the way down to a 15 hp a bit much? that is over a 25% reduction in engine hp to drive a 48" deck

i got an old Husqvarna 2246LS mower im trying to get in good working order and it has a kawasaki engine on it it has a rough start issue where it surges with the choke but dies instantly if you turn off the choke and then after the engine runs for a short while and wants to die with the choke...

if you replaced both the drive belts then its either the pivot arm needs to be removed, cleaned up, and greased, then put it back together if it moves free and easy after you undo the tensioner spring connected from the arm to the frame, then the spring must have gotten soft from being rusty so...

does the fuel; line connect to the center nipple on a different level then the other two? i had one made me scratch my head trying to figure out why 3 difference pulse pumps and none pumped gas, so i went to the basics and checked where the lines went and found the issue, its so often im used...

no they dont put those plugs on the residential MTD mowers, they wanted to save that 3 cents on every mower they make. you have to pull the bulb sockets out and feed the wires out of the hood and lay them on the ground or hang it over the brake pedal when removing the hoods, its a real stupid...

that thing is spinning free with zero compression as though the piston rod has broken or something to be honest i wouldnt waste time on it and just buy an old craftsman or murray riding mower and use the 15-16hp engines that come on them as an upgrade replacement. you can buy old mowers with...

the absolute only way i could see using one is if you always cut when the grass is wet and it stays clumped up then its better to clear that out then leave it stay

they need fluid to live, run low on fluid and you burn up the hydrolic pump thingy inside and its DOA watch this video that shows you what you may be in for

i suspect it is the result of more about how you drive it then how its made. they have zero suspension and cant handle being treated like a truck or 4wd taking fast turns and rumbling through ruts takes a heavy toll on a rigid framed lawnmower running lower air pressure tires will absorb a...

did you remove the spark plugs? and the oil pump cover and shaft if you have one? a regular channel lock pliers is all i need to use to turn the flywheel, if you need more then that then something is binding in the engine

what works best is to hit the flywheel itself, not the shaft, never hit the shaft because all you are doing is beating against the bottom bearing. give the flywheel a good hard whack while pulling up hard with your hand and it will pop right off, but sometimes it takes 5-6 whacks to let go...

why scrap it? a head gasket is only like $10 and takes about an hour tops to replace, and thats taking your time, and a long break in there somewhere watch this video, its the command twin but the process is the same for the courage, just with only one head that said, i hate kohlers too but...

445677 0827-E1 is the engine model number 445677 is the engine number and im not really sure but i "think" the following numbers after it refer to variations of style differences and date it was built, but they are used to help identify the engine for finding the right parts

those things can be a genuine PITA, i had one slip out on me about 20 times before i finally got it to cooperate and stay in place

in all the cases i have seen its just a matter of bending the bracket to align it, the brackets are just soft steel and bend fairly easy. i dont think i ever had one that wasnt a little crooked and needed to be bent a little to align it

thank you very much, now i know not to waste shop time on them i was hoping being both k46 trannys they might swap out but thanks to you i am learning more about them i had assumed they maybe were different but wasnt sure so i came here to ask the experts willing to help

oh well, no one here knows so i guess i will have to leave them for last when i have the time to compare them side by side

thats what im asking about, i have about a dozen mowers that all need this or that and im trying to formulate a plan to strip half for parts and try to get the other half working again. im just not sure if the parts will fit between pedal vs hand operated styles. i have very little exposure to...

so no one knows if the same transmissions are used for push handle to go hydro tranny and the press pedal to go hydro trannys? i get there may be brand or model number differences but will they hook up the same so they can swap out is all i need to know

i have a bad hydro tranny with the pedal drive and i have a parts mower with the hand lever drive are these the same trannys that will just swap out or does the hand drive hydro have different connecting points for things? i know mtd single speeds are all the same no matter the model numbers...

sounds like a blown head gasket to me pull the head and see if thats the problem, im sure it will be

if the welder isnt charging you anything then try welding it, but if you have to pay a welder you may as well just skip it and buy the new frame instead of paying a welder then have the welds break on you later and you still have to buy the new frame. fix it right the first time so you dont have...

could your engagement cable be stretched? see if the leverage arm (under the big bolt in the center of bracket) is moving all the way and not tightening the belt

ok thats good to know, i was under the impression that 150 was the optimum target for mower engines and it shouldnt be below 100

no, bolens is mtd and craftsman is ayp brand. for a bolens deck you can crossover to mtd, yardman, cub cadet, try built, but with that said, there are specific differences in the hanger brackets of all these brands on the different models they sell so certain years and models change bracket...

this ^^^^ loosen the screws on the coils then put a business card between it and the flywheel then let the magnet suck it tight and then retighten the screws. a business card gets you the right gap but im not sure what the feeler gauge thickness would be if you rather do it that way. as...

im no pro but here would be my lessons learned through the years about repairing stuff biggest mistakes are from assuming things rather then doing the full diagnostic to be sure and jumping all over the place trying things rather then do a test of one thing at a time before moving on. if you...

90 lbs is low, i think maybe its time for a rebuild but startech would know for sure so defer to his opinion did both cylinders read 90? there is often a slight difference in how they wear so i find it strange if they both were identical

yep, thats why i dont do repairs, way too much BS involved and they always want to blame you when they have a flat tire after yoiu replaced the belts or the engine "sounds different" and some people like those you just dont want to ever deal with. what i mean by simple problems is a major issue...

check the fuel shutoff solenoid is bad or not getting power, that sounds like whats going on when it runs for a few seconds then dies

do this simple test, unplug the main plug to engine and then see if you have spark, if you do then its a safety switch somewhere killing it its very common for the seat switch plug to back off a little and there is a spring wire in it that kills the mower thinking the switch is unplugged note...

you sure about that? because all the murray and snapper parts i buy now come with a briggs logo on the bag or box

with ayp brands they are 3 levels of quality husqvarna - best quality poulan/cratfsman - good quality ariens - cheapest quality mowers this is just my opinion from having worked on so many of them and seen how long they last

but did you confirm smooth operation of the oil pump itself? its not uncommon after an engine failure for aluminum transfer to the pump gears and they dont turn to pump and just spin as a complete lump not pumping any oil i see no way to avoid going back in at this point because you need to...

i flip mowers for a hobby and to be honest i would ask $300 for that and be happy to get $250 and feel guilty getting that for a 31 yr old mower, but thats after i sharpened the blades and changed the oil because that makes a huge difference with buyers knowing they dont need to do anything with...

im guessing you have just enough of the edge of the blades are worn down and rounded off so its too short to overlap cut when you turn

lord help us if mtd takes over, those engines fail so regularly its like having a time bomb on your lawnmower i tell people if they buy a lawn tractor with an mtd engine they should bring it straight to the junk yard rather then wait a year for it to throw a rod

something is different since there is a letter in the engine code number but that shouldnt matter as far as swapping them out my guess is the air filter or something is configured different or as mentioned maybe one has a different or no starter or charging system at all if it has a recoil...

depends on condition but in this case it still looks new and its a 46" so im thinking $800 the average price i get for a used mower is $600, $500 if its an older model

i just do it as a hobby not as a source of income and i try to just buy nice ones without needing much work that i can buy for under $200, and i usually just pay $100 for them like in this case i paid $80 for the mower and $20 for the parts mower to get the parts i needed so im all in for $100...

i just had to post this rant but im sure we have all had these mowers from time to time i just bought a 2013 46" ariens mower to repair and flip, the ad said it wouldnt run but should be an easy fix. it was raining when i got there and i couldnt get that good of a look at it, but i could tell...

never mind the tighten and back off x amount set parking brake, tighten adjusting nut as you rock the mower forward and backward until tractor wont roll when pushed and rocked (but it may still move a tad until the slack is taken up) then release the parking brake and mower should roll without...

check the release rod wasnt jolted, you may have the trannny in bypass mode

if i recall correctly you use a 3/4" street 90 (or maybe its 1") then a 4" nipple to bring it out to clear the mower body. then go buy a threaded round generic mufflers for $10 that screw right onto it and use a 3/4" electrical box nut to lock it in place or you can just buy the oem muffler for...

i set them so they sit 1" below the deck, they are there to stop the deck from hitting the ground, they are NOT used as wheels for decks to ride on all the time, they just arent made for that

only thing is you may require a different sized deck belt to maintain the correct belt tension but thats about it as far as i know. you usually dont have any issues with compatibility unless you try to switch from PTO to manual deck cable engagement decks, i dont think trying anything like that...

this ^^^^^^ the model number on the cover is more of a series number and isnt used for looking up parts the actual model number is found under the seat either on the body or the seat bracket itself in most cases

it wasnt in reverse was it? it happens test the operation of the spindles and pulleys to see if they are free or if the bearings are shot

as mentioned sell it as "bad for parts only" someone trying to repair theirs will want it foir the gears or something saw an ad the other day for a lawn mower with no seat, no hood, no deck, missing engine, 4 flat tires, and a bad tranny, and asking price was $300 lol people will buy just...

most common issue is the belt needs replacing, the belt sides are the only thing that wears so the belt can still look great but be worn out. second most common issue is the small tranny tension spring to the frame rail gets rusty and weak, they only cost $10 to replace and to replace it, hook...