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@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to...

@ILENGINE, I'm no expert in the matter. I'm not a petroleum engineer. I AM an engineer (electrical) and a gearhead (my dad was a professional mechanic), so I'm not totally clueless. But also, my career as an engineer has taught me that I don't know everything. For the assemblies that get filled...

I'm having a hard time understanding how this could be. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but I'd like to see proof. I hope that's not the case. I recently replaced a spindle, and filled it with Lucas Red n Tacky.

I'm a big fan of getting the right machine for a given property. I usually change my equipment every time I move. Sounds like you got the right machine for your needs.

I'm going to disagree that air cools better than grease. Grease will conduct heat way better than air. Wheel bearings have to be removed to be greased. They typically don't get greased through zerk fittings. Any assembly with a zerk fitting (ball joint, tie rod, etc) gets filled until grease...

Grease not getting past sealed bearings.... In this video, this guy disagrees that bearing seals will block grease from getting to the bearings, and he demonstrates his findings. The seals CAN block the grease if you don't apply grease correctly, and he shows how to do it correctly. The trick...

But then you go on to refute my claims of "way more power".

I don't recall, but I doubt we had racing oil. This was the early 80's, and we were changing it every race day. Probably should have changed it every heat.

You DO understand the concept of racing engines, right? High lift cams, bigger valves and valve springs, ported intake & exhausts. Steel cranks. I think the rods were aluminum. Not sure about the pistons. There were 3 classes. Stock, stock appearing, and modified. Stock is stock, except you...

Like I said, not a complete valve job. And these were all-out racing engines. The only OEM parts were: the block, head, lifters and spark plug. The crank, cam, & piston were all high end racing parts. Racing carb & intake, too. Straight pipe exhaust. The engines turned WAY more RPMs than stock...

It wasn't complete valve jobs. I didn't replace valve guides, and I didn't cut valve seats or valves. I was a teenager, so this kept me out of trouble.

I disagree. I used to race karts with 5 HP Briggs flathead engines. I ran open class, and the engines peaked out around 6000 RPM. At the end of a race, compression would be noticeably down from the start. I would have to basically do a valve job after every race. I'd remove the head and valves...

Mostly flat lawn... I'd skip self propel. I have a Toro Recycler with Personal Pace and electric start. You will need to keep the charger plugged into it all the time. And the Personal Pace system will need to be adjusted every season. I got the electric start and self propel so my kids could...

I would check the spindles, and make sure they spin freely. Grease them while you're in there. Most spindles never get greased. You will need to apply grease until it squirts out somewhere. At that point, the grease will force past the seals.

Does your solenoid have 3 connections? Or 4? All solenoids will have 2 large terminals for carrying the heavy current from the battery to the starter. All solenoids have a coil, which must be energized to activate the solenoid. Some have one connection to the coil, and some have two. The coil...

The park brake must be set for the engine to crank. Did your friend verify that 12V was getting to the solenoid?

If the engine spins over when you short across the solenoid, then: - the battery is good - the battery terminal connections are good. - the starter is good. Check the simplest things first. Is the park brake set? Is the PTO switch off? Does this mower require someone in the seat for it to...

I would just use the oil from the engine manufacturer. Yes, it's way more expensive than what you can get at Wallyworld, but... - How much do you really use? I do one change per year. 2 qts. That's not going to break the bank. - You know that the oil from the mfr will absolutely have the right...

If the engine spins over when you short across the solenoid, then: - the battery is good - the battery terminal connections are good. - the engine is not hydro locked. I'd suspect a safety switch. Do you have a test light? If so, check to see if 12V from the ignition switch is getting to the...

How was that a waste of time? You guys informed me that I had the right size tires. That means that I know what size to get if I decide to buy any. And that I need to look further into what's wrong with my deck.

Hmmm. Looks like tire size is not the reason I can't get my deck level. I don't think I can justify replacing the tires just to eliminate checking them before every use. I'll try the ATF trick, and see if that fixes the leaks. And look for other reasons for my deck issues. Thanks, all, for the...

Here is a photo of the ID sticker. I guess that COULD be 968 99 92 20.

This is the Husqvarna forum, so... yeah. Those specs don't match my machine. They must have made a change at some point. Mine has a single cyl Kohler Command Pro, and only one fuel tank.

Thanks, ILENGINE. The rears are right, but I'm not sure about the fronts. They are currently Kenda Corsas, and size printed on the sidewall is 4.10/3.5-5. I don't understand that sizing. 4.10/3.5-5? What is that? And is it the same as 11x4-5?

I have a CZ 4817, and the tires are fairly old and leaky. I just deal with it by putting air in them every time I use it. I recently tried to level the deck, and found that I couldn't get the deck high enough. I set the cutting height to 3", but at the max height adjustment, the blades were...

Sounds like the governor spring is either wrong, or installed wrong. 4800 should be out of the range of adjustment. I'd look over the governor spring, and how it's mounted. There are often multiple holes for it to mount into. See if there's a hole that makes the spring looser.

Do both mowers run the same RPMs? Are both air filters clean? Or, the same amount of dirty? Same blades? High lift blades will use more fuel than mulching blades. Bagging, mulching, or discharging setup the same on both? Check the cooling fins. A rodent could have made a nest in one of them...

To those saying that you don't need to be in the seat for starting.... Some do, some don't. I have two riding mowers. A Husqvarna CZ4817 and a Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S. To start the CZ, the bars must be pushed out, the park brake set, AND you have be in the seat. On the Pro Z, if the park brake is...

I can't keep the angle consistent enough with a flap wheel. I really like the idea of soaking blades in water for ez clean up. Why didn't I think of that?

You might try one of these. I just ordered one, so I can't comment yet on how well it works. It's a much cheaper knockoff of a tool that is reported to work well.

I never mentioned a temperature difference anywhere. Where are you getting this? I plan on keeping it well greased.

CC claims that it's a commercial unit. That year, they offered a Pro Z 100, 500, and 900. I consider mine to be "entry-level commercial" or maybe prosumer. Still, almost overkill for residential use. Don't go by that photo. I mangled the bearing, and maybe the spindle trying to get it apart. So...

I agree. I learn best by doing it myself. The new spindle was just delivered. It came with a pulley, which I didn't expect. (y) Great, given that it wasn't scheduled for delivery until Monday. Not sure it will make any difference, though. It's been raining for 3 days. Won't be able to mow...

Thanks. My garage now is one I inherited from my dad, with all his tools (that haven't walked off). It's a professional garage. He was a professional mechanic. I searched for punches the other day for removing bearings, and found a tool that looks perfect for the job. It's like a chisel with a...

I'm not sure why, but last year, I only put about 30 hrs on it. I think the manual calls for service every 25 hrs. So I didn't think it needed it. However, the air pre-filter, which is also supposed to serviced every 25 hrs, was caked with dirt, so maybe it was a hard 30 hrs. This year, I have...

My bearing supplier, Amazon, isn't quite that cheap. One bearing is about $9. One cup... about the same. I DID find 4 sets of Timkin bearings & cups for $35. Not quite as good as your prices, but better than $18 per set. Or $150 per spindle.

"Do the cones & cups need to be replaced as sets?" Never mind. I did a bit of research, and found that they get replaced together. I kinda thought that. My dad was a mechanic in the 70's, and did a bunch of bearing replacements. I seem to recall the cups (aka races) getting replaced too. Any...

Model # is 53RWEFJA050, DOM - 02/2016. Does that change anything? I speculated, "Is it possible that the 741-04129 bearing is not right for this spindle?" I checked another spindle, and it has the same bearing. Do the cones & cups need to be replaced as sets? Thanks, StarTech

Is it possible that the 741-04129 bearing is not right for this spindle? When I search on 741-04129, I get hits for spindle rebuild kits, but my spindle is not one of the ones mentioned. And this spindle had excessive vertical and lateral play. I don't want to take the bearings out of one of the...

Maybe, but all the fasteners not on the engine are SAE. Everything on the Kohler engine is metric. I measured the ID of the bearing. I got 0.750". That's 19.05mm. Is that a common size? It may be built in China, but all of the nuts & bolts (outside of the engine) are SAE, so I expected the...

The spindles have zerks. On the two good spindles, I filled them with grease, and them pumped a couple of more times, which resulted in grease squirting through the bearings. I think I have a handle now on how to get grease into the bearings. I managed to knock the bearings and seals out of the...

Recently, I decided to do some deck maintenance on my Cub Cadet Pro Z 100. Two of the spindles (p/n 918-07255) seemed pretty solid. No play in any direction. Before greasing, though, they made a bit of noise when turning the blades. After greasing, they got quiet. The 3rd spindle... had vertical...

I found this in the operator's manual: "The engine will automatically shut off if the operator leaves the seat before engaging the parking brake." Mine doesn't do this, so a previous owner disabled this feature. I know that many would prefer it to operate this way, but since my wife uses it...

I think I'm going to try the ATF trick first. I have the money for tires, but I'd like to get the property free of hazards before I go buying new tires. Hopefully that trick will get me another season. I have an older ZTR with bagger that I keep for leaf collection. It has a leak on one tire...

I have a Pro Z 154S, and I'd like to find out what safety features it's supposed to have, and whether I have them all working now. It's a commercial unit, and I bought it used. I'm guessing the lawn company that owned didn't want to be bothered with all the safety features. However, my wife is...

Only if the deck is a mulching deck, or is set up for mulching. One set up for side discharge or bagging... just replacing high lift blades with mulching blades won't take more power. A deck set for mulching is designed to not allow air and grass to escape quickly. THAT takes more power.

Tubes can be patched, can't they? I used to patch bicycle tires when I got flats.

I have a 2016 Cub Cadet Pro Z 100S (steering wheel). It's a commercial mower with just over 400 hrs. One the tires has a slow leak. The other 3... have VERY slow leaks. The fastest leaking tire needs air about every week. The other 3... about every month. Given that the tires are 9 yrs old...