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The bolt is a hex head tight against the plate. I can loosen it, maybe hook something over it to connect the spring to. When I have the belt, I can try that. That was my best guess so far. Thanks.

It's a Briggs and Stratton 18 horse. I don't have access right now. Partstree says motor is B&S Intek Model 31H777-0117-E1. I found the hole in the lever. There is a bolt in the deck near the centerline, and a hole next to it. When I get the new belt, I can try and connect there. I can...

like this picture... I do see from the pic that there's a spring cover which I do not have...

Of the mower? Sure.SZT18336BVE, serial 50205918. I looked at partstree and several others, and they don't show what I need to install the spring. They also don['t seem to list most of the engine parts, it's mostly mower, not motor.

Auto Doc, thanks for the advice. I agree. Sometimes I do a little searching for info before I get my hands on it. This particular mower is about an hour from home.

So, I tested the clutch and it seems good. It loudly engages. I put the ohm meter on it, and got 4 ohms, hopefully that's good. The belt is gone, so that's the problem. The spring for the tension/idler pulley fell off, and I can't tell where it needs to go. I found a diagram, so I feel like...

OK, belt gone. Clutch seems to work fine.

My mistake, 8 B. Sorry. Heading out to test now. Wish me luck. ] Thanks again.

Some have spaces or dashes like SZT-183368-bve. That is the model number from the sticker. I did pull it up on briggs site, looking for part number for the PTO switch. Thanks for the info.

I've been working on a snapper scrambler 33" zero turn. We mowed with it today for over an hour, then the blade disengaged, and won't engage. I am told the switch has been replaced a couple times in the last year. I'm headed there tomorrow to pull and test the switch, and test the clutch. I...

I've never heard of motorcycles having a compression release. I've worked on a few, but haven't done compression tests on any.

I do have a degree in Electrical Engineering... Seriously. Ok, my thing was computers, not power generation but... I agree the problem was probably carb to start. I adjusted the governor, got it wrong, and redid it after some advice here, and got it right. I would have adjusted the fine...

Thanks Toby. I agree about the youtubes. So many times, a clearly written paragraph or two would cover the issue, and you've got to watch 4 different videos to put together the information. In this case, I did get a nicely written explanation, which worked great the second time I did it. I...

Have you tried a known good battery? Checked the cables/cleaned connections? I am assuming that it is not turning at all. Can you manually turn the engine?

Jim, it's good to see that the key is whole. It sounds like currently you have a compression problem. I think investigating the Heli-coil for the original head is a good idea.

Jim, check that stuff, and check the flywheel key. That can be a cause of the flywheel turning, spark tester showing spark, and engine does not run.

The spark tester showing spark does not verify timing. Have you checked the flywheel key? You were talking about doing it, but I can't recall if it happened again.

You say the recoil is shot. Could you elaborate, or clarify? What parts are broken/not functioning? I've substituted parts for recoil starts pretty easily, but we do need a starting point.

I believe the surging was governor related. I adjusted it(twice) and got it to run nice and smooth, but due to the burnt stator coil, it's not making power. It's a salvage, so it's just getting noted that it needs genset, runs good. It's not like it's my emergency power or anything.

Thanks for the input guys. I should have cleaned the fuel tank earlier, but have done so, as well as installing a new filter. I've cut my yard front and back a couple of times, and it starts first pull. No low oil sensor. I use stabil during storage, and have had pretty good luck. My mower...

That's what I was thinking. Thanks again.

That's what I figured. It's still a good motor.

So, it's likely a problem with stator. The windings look burnt. The connectors for the brushes are melted, which isn't a good sign. The motor runs great though. Just thought I'd post the results. So, if you adjust the governor, and the motor just races at full throttle afterward, do it...

I just worked on a Briggs that showed just under 60 on compression gauge. The problem was sheared key, once I fixed that, starts on first pull. YMMV.

The connections were corroded, as the endcap is missing on this unit. I cleaned them up before this test.

So, as advised, I started over. I printed your instructions(which agree with what I'd read elsewhere) and readjusted the governor. Once started, I had to readjust the sole screw/spring, to bring it up from idle. It purrs at 3600 RPM. Due to my background in EE, that means something to me...

This one isn't making much power yet.

Hold it at idle? That's the only stop screw I know about. I'll try that in the future. I could see the governor tweaking the throttle as it happened, but that could have been a symptom, not the cause I suppose. I gotta get this one back down to reasonable rpm. I'll put the tach on it, and...

My introduction to this site was a Toro Recycler mower that I was given. I cleaned the carb and it ran great. For a day. Then I messed with it on and off over a week without it running at all. I found this place, posted here, got some advice and got it fixed. Once I run it on my lawn for a...

It was my thought that the hunting, was a symptom of the governor being maladjusted, or not working correctly. I could see that the governor was controlling the throttle. I've worked on small engines for a long time, as a shade tree mechanic, but have not messed with governors much. So much...

I believe that is what I did. When I started, I would start the engine, then turn the knob to the run position, from the start position(which takes off the choke.) The motor would run at what seemed to be a moderate rpm, but would speed up, and slow back down. It would be mostly at that...

Glad to see it running anyhow. Good luck with it.

Got a Generac 0066720. Runs nice and smooth, but the governor is off. It was surging/hunting, and I adjusted the governor per directions I found on youtube. Loosen nut on governor arm, open throttle to full, gov arm fully in that direction, rotate gov shaft cw. It didn't move much, but now...

Replacing the carb(and I've had good luck with Amazon carbs) means you probably need to adjust the governor. Here's a video. I am not an expert at governors, just learning them now. Hopefully someone with more experience will show up pretty soon.

Make sure you don't get lube on the flywheel or shaft if you pull it, that can cause the key to be sheared.

The blade stopping from a blockage can shear the key. That's all I was talking about. If it sheared without ever driving the blades, obviously that didn't happen. Lack of torque, or lube on shaft as Ilengine mentioned probably did it.

Fuel, compression, spark, and timing are what you need to run. If you're doing this to check spark, it may be a good idea to check the flywheel key. It can be sheared by suddenly stopping the blade(hitting a big root hard.) Take the nut and washer off the flywheel, it's pretty easy to see...

Hi Jim, Sheared key can be from insufficient torque, or something suddenly blocking rotation, such as hitting a big root with the blade. I think that's how I did mine. Ilengine did say "while checking the flywheel key make sure the ignition module isn't hitting the flywheel which can cause...

2 good answers. Poor connections may show full voltage, but can't pass full current. In a case like this, it's always good to clean the battery connections. Back when I used to drive much older cars, that was always one of the first things to try for weak cranking...

That looks like a normal spark tester. What you described is the definitive test for a plug. Sounds like you should have spark. Did you check that flywheel key?

If you're using an inline spark tester, it does not test the plug. Joed said "Keep in mind, the spark tester will tell you the whole ignition system is good or bad EXCEPT the spark plug." The coil fires a very high voltage, which can light the tester, even if it's not grounded. Try a new plug.

The engine needs 4 things to run. Fuel/air, compression, spark, and timing. I would check the key, but you can see if it's sheared, no need to replace if it's not. Have you tried replacing the spark plug? Using a spark tester tests everything but the plug. If you're spraying something for...

A ways back you were talking about checking the flywheel key. I'd recheck that if you haven't. It doesn't take much for that to keep it from firing. I'm also concerned about the banging noise. As someone else said, that could be motor mounts, or a dead engine.

How the compression release works.

Hopefully someone who knows that engine will speak up. If there is a compression release, as dougand3 was saying earlier, you will see a lower number on the compression test. I was working on a briggs engine that showed under 60lbs on the compression test, due to a compression release. I was...

The only way I know to test the coil is to test for spark. Use a spark tester, or remove the plug, connect the plug wire, and ground the plug. Don't hold the plug in your hand, or you can get shocked. Have someone else pull the cord, and watch for spark. There may be a test with a good...

If the bowl is dry, do you get gas out of the line running to the carb? If you remove the float(is there a float?) and the needle valve, can you blow through the fuel line? It sounds like one of those is stopped. I use canned carb cleaner to blow out the passages with pretty good results.

Single cylinder engine.

Gas can is good, mower is salvage. As I said earlier, I suspect throttle plate was blocking the starting fluid. Thanks.

What I said works fine for a single engine mower. With a PTO involved, you're over my head. If you're getting a compression tester, that's the best test, I'd wait on that.