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I believe it is difficult for many people to think outside the box. Substituting the bearings would probably “void the warranty”, but get the machine right and able to use. Cub Cadet is not known for commercial equipment. I have seen their commercial zero turns and they seem as well built as...

Yeah, it is a 4mix engine. The BR600 BR700 and BR800 are great blowers. I have a BR600 that is 20 years old, used to use it commercially, and is still going strong. Rarely does the cam gear melt. The carburetor is a Zama if it is OEM, not Stihl. Although Stihl did buy out Zama. Highly doubtful...

Of course I have seen main seals go out on both vertical and horizontal engines. That is not what I was saying. I said Kohler Command engines specifically are not prone to blowing out the main seals.

So you have experienced a problem with the Stihl BR800 blower regarding the muffler bolts not staying tight. You not willing to leave it at the dealer for a whole week is odd. Don’t you have other blowers (like the heavy Echo?) We are just saying that having bolts backing out on the muffler on...

A Kohler Command is a great engine in general. Never heard of any small engine being “prone to blowing out the main top or bottom crankshaft seal”, much less a Kohler Command.

You are the only person I have seen on the internet, or in person from customers that has has this problem. We call that an outlier issue. Stihl makes great products from chainsaws, to blowers, to trimmers, etc. My suggestion is take these blowers with mufflers that will not stay on to a...

What about the on/off switch? Is it working properly? Did you check your grounds?

Take a micrometer and measure a business card to make sure it is close to .010”. I don’t think it is that crucial. Same as gap in spark plug. Most plugs I check when cleaning, the gap is too large until adjusted. Many spark plugs I check are not tightened properly either. Often the crush washer...

There are many videos on YouTube covering replacing/servicing/repairing hydraulic transaxles. The whole key is making sure you get the correct replacement before removing and replacing.

The clutch is in pieces and needs to be replaced. Spray the crankshaft with PB Blaster, apply heat, use an air hammer, or a 3 pound sledge hammer and beat it off. Sometimes it takes a lot to get a stuck one off. Also, try a 3 jaw puller.

Yep. Any 4-stroke trimmer such as Craftsman, Ryobi, Troy Bilt, etc. is basically junk from the start. A relatively short life span, difficult to start at times, unreliable, and not worth fixing most times. Go buy a Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, or Redmax and you will be happy and productive for many...

The first thing to check on your drive belt is that the belt pattern is correct, then check for good belt tension. You can replace just the bendix gear on most starters, however, if the starter is old and worn out, it is best to replace the entire starter.

Some manufacturers say “it voids the warranty” way too quickly so they can get out of potential payouts. It has always bothered me when I hear, “it voids the warranty.” I have never owned anything expensive enough and new enough to even have a warranty (thousands of dollars).

Adding Sta-bil will do nothing to fix a lean fuel issue. Most likely need to clean the carburetor and also make sure intake gaskets are in good shape and in correct location.

May have to weld nuts on to remove the existing nuts.

If your concern is about 3-4 drops of oil leaking on the floor each night, put a piece of cardboard on the floor and run it. Not uncommon for a hydro pump or drive motor (less common), to leak. Just keep an eye on hydraulic oil and top off as needed.

I successfully clean about 95% of carburetors without having to buy a new one. Then if a new carburetor is needed, aftermarket is the way to go. Good results usually and actually affordable versus OEM. I pressure wash equipment as part of the tune up, otherwise it usually doesn’t get washed...

I buy fuel shut off valves in bulk and have overall good results. If they are going to leak, it is often right after you install them. Not going to pay $6/ each versus $1 and change for the same basic part.

Everything on a mower deck has to be just right for it to operate correctly. A deck belt should literally last for several years if things are correct. I just had to give up on a mower I was going to sell because I couldn’t get the deck right after several hours of attempts. A customer this...

$150 per hour is about $25 to $50 per hour over average. So let’s say you do charge $150/hour and rebuild an engine completely. So maybe $1500 in labor and $400 in parts. Who is going to pay $1900 for a rebuilt engine that can be bought for $3000 new?! The math doesn’t work. Again, I need to...

What needs to be right on a mower deck for it to operate correctly? All pulleys and spindles turn freely and are at correct height. Pulleys are not cocked at incorrect levels. No excessive sag and smooth operation of tensioner pulley. Belt guides in place and correctly set in relation to pulley...

I am all self taught from online watching YouTube, reading service manuals, and forums such as this one. I can, and have rebuilt engines. Being a one person shop, I don’t have the time to focus on rebuilding an engine, because the pace of work is too busy. Also the cost of parts and labor are...

I use the spark tester that lights up with orange light all the time. I also have the other type that jumps the gap. A less technical, yet very effective way to test that both cylinders are firing on twin cylinder engine: Use a spray bottle with water to spray the exhaust pipe and watch how...

Straight swap, no issues 2-3 hours.

I deal with a lot of elderly people also. When I did pick ups and deliveries in the past, it was only for riding mowers and zero turns. One of many things I figured out is that you can only offer certain options for customers based on time, stress level, gross profit, etc. if you say yes, they...

Buy the Scag over the other three mowers, especially the Bobcat. Scag has a large market share, unlike the Bobcat. I have only worked on one Bobcat zero turn over the years, versus dozens and dozens of Scags. Hard to believe you are having this much trouble picking a residential zero turn. One...

No compression release and 80-90 psi on compression is on the low end, not respectable.

So you do pick up and delivery for your customers as a one person shop? I quit that option years ago when I got too busy.

When you say it “barely runs”, what exactly does that mean? Hard to start, doesn’t stay running, low RPMs, etc.? Did you pull the flywheel and visually check that the key is not partially sheared?

Scag is at the top of zero turns, along with Ferris. A $6000 Scag is a residential mower and will fit your needs just fine. Remember, an EFI 61” commercial Scag is $17,000. Scag mowers are reliable and tough and it is hard to beat a Scag. The lawn service price scenario was $60/cut at 4 cuts a...

Probably the solenoid.

At the low end of zero turns starting around $3500 are big box store zero turns. No matter the brand, the quality and features are all pretty close. Then you jump up to mid tier starting around $5000-$6000 and up. Here there are some minor differences in quality, etc. then you jump up to...

Equivalent new mower these days probably around $3200. The GT stands for garden tractor, a little bit heavier built than LT (lawn tractor). Good find. Run it or sell it.

Spartan has experienced lots of issues with these ignition control boards over the years. Dust, dirt, and water eventually mess them up, and need to be replaced. The new ones the last few years or so come with a 3 year warranty. Spartan and Bad Boy are same basic zero turns from business...

It is a Ferris, just worked on one last week doing a tune up. Yep, check mounting bolts on both transaxles. I have seen the lean on the wheels before. Once tightened it makes a whole lot of difference.

Peerless transaxle. You have to purge air out of system completely. Obviously something isn’t right. First keep bypass lever out and press pedal forward/backward. Then put bypass lever in (normal position), and do same. Do some additional research online for more details. Right type of oil...

If you can set up a Holley 4 barrel, surely you can handle a little mower carburetor. Keep the OEM carburetor if at all possible!

To remove excessive sealant on valve covers: Use a heat gun to soften the sealant, then a couple of small screwdrivers to gently pry valve cover. Then use a wire wheel on a battery drill to remove sealant from valve cover and cylinder head. Scotch bright and carburetor cleaner for the last bits...

Cheap ignition coils are not recommended for long term reliability. I usually order OEM ignition coils for customers. If you already have them, give them a shot and see how they do.

The world’s longest run on sentence, without any punctuation. Thanks for the information though.

If engine is losing power when making turns, or going up a hill, a possibility is there is debris clogging the fuel outlet from fuel tank. Remove fuel hose after fuel filter and blow back into tank with air compressor and blow gun (fuel cap also removed).

Sure, the shaft can be replaced if you can find the part, and want to completely take the transaxle off of the mower, completely take the case off, replace part, reseal, and reinstall. So the short answer is , lots of work.

It is really a 4 cylinder engine?

Make sure the deck is level. Break out the tape measure with all tires at correct air pressure, and on concrete. Often the right side of deck is fixed, and the left side of deck is adjusted to match the right side height. Then the front of deck is pitched 1/4” lower than the rear. Another thing...

To “Soonerfan3107” question. You have to check at battery with multi-meter to determine if battery is charging or not. Then test regulator/rectifier and stator to see which needs replacing.

I recommend the 300 CCA battery for mowers at a minimum. Average battery life on mower is about 3 years without additional charging.

Looks like a Briggs 500E. Even with compression release, 30 psi of compression is too low to start and run. Did you try to spray some carburetor spray into throat of carb to see if it will run for a few seconds?

If you have debris, or more likely water, siphoning “most” of the fuel out won’t work. You may have to remove tank, turn it upside down, and blow it out with air gun to get it all out.

Ruixing is made in China, along with the engine.

Fram declared bankruptcy along with two other sister brands. Do some research for details.