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Would someone please clarify the hyd pumps are different and the wheel motors are the same, thus the "CCW" on the label, even though other numbers are different?

Dang it! I just noticed all my spaces got removed between L & R along with the pn's so it's kind of hard to read above.. Here they are in a single column... HYDRAULIC PUMPS Left PG-1KCC-DY1X Right PG-1GCC-DY1X WHEEL MOTORS Left 7079L1B1F HGM-15E-3138 151H3138 200 CCW Right...

I've replaced the PTO clutch a few years ago and other miscellaneous stuff as needed and put a bouncy seat on it, so I'd rather hang on to it... I'd rather keep this simple old carbureted mower versus a new EFI mower. I figured if I spent $2k replacing all the hydraulics, the only other major...

Hi all, Ten years ago I inherited a Scag Tiger Cub that had previously been rode hard. Over the last 3-5 years I've been having some drive control problems. The right wheel seems to pulsate and sometimes wont move, then just takes off rapidly. With both arms all the way forward the mower will...

I had to do this too on a similar mower. I finally removed the the 'convenience' loop that holds the pull handle up near the other controls so the handle retracts all the way to the motor. Pulling from the motor allows you to spin the motor more and mine will start usually on the first pull...

I've used Hylomar Blue for a long time with good results...

Is the other end of the negative battery cable good and tight at the motor/frame???

Hylomar has been around for decades and was first made by Rolls Royce. I've had good experience with it and it doesn't harden up. From AI...

After penetrating oil. could you 'tap' on the arm with a hammer to try to loosen it up?

On my Kawasaki engine I had the lower finger 'disappear' on my pushrod guide plate causing a random clank because the pushrod/rocker arm was lower and hitting the valve cover. I'm not sure if Briggs is setup the same way, but I wanted to throw it out there...

Maybe a crows foot wrench with an extension might work???

I still have it in there, but if I have any issues I'll jerk it out. Good info on the fuel filters. I need to add one pronto. I know how to look at my old threads now and will do so, if needed 🤞 Thanks again!

I think that must have been it... 🤗 Before I removed the swirl plate, I fired it up one last time this morning and to my surprise, it seemed to run much better! I put the cover with air cleaner on it, mowed for over an hour, ran great, and no coughs! 🤗 Thank you all for your help!

I know you verified the ground connection, but I'd make sure the negative end of the bat cable is nice and "tight" where it connects to the engine. I had funky voltage readings before and it was due to that loose ground conn.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose negative battery cable at the engine.

Well I pulled the shroud off, fired it up and listened closer. I think the occasional cough is actually coming out the exhaust, not through the carb. Spraying carb cleaner around the joints while the motor was running didn't change anything, so I don't think I have any air leaks. The coils...

Yes I saw that when I mounted the intake to the carb, so I ran some gasket sealer between the carb and gasket. I'm going to pull the shroud off, run the engine, and spray some carb cleaner around the mating surfaces to see if anything changes... Thank you!

I hear ya about not changing anything, but I was 'going for the gusto'! I really suck at taking pictures along the way, but here is a link I found talking about the Swirl Plate and reference to the Briggs service bulletin...

Finally an update: After rebuilding the carb with new internal rubbers and cleaning the internal passages with wire, carb cleaner and compressed air, it runs better, but still still doesn't 'feel/sound' right. I also sealed the plastic intake seams and put sealer between the carb and intake...

I was hoping the o-ring being pushed too far up in the pickup tube was my issue, but it wasn't. After removing the bowl yesterday, I put the O back on the bowl with Vaseline like you suggested, and reinstalled the bowl, but it made no difference. One last thing I'm going to do before pulling...

Well the O-ring pushed too far up in the pickup tube wasn't the problem. It still runs like crap, even above idle, like it's not getting enough fuel. I'll try removing the top plate and blow low air pressure through the idle circuit, but not expecting it to fix the problem. Hopefully I'll be...

Thank you! The carb is still on the mower so in addition to Vaseline, I pushed the bigger o-ring up in there to make sure the jets didn't fall out. I shouldn't have done that... ☹️ That is a great video and if I have to pull off the carb, I'll definitely follow that vid and your suggestions...

I was able to easily find those o-rings this time, but that's a good idea about making them IF you have the right size line... That's worth remembering, thanks!

I got it started, but it's stumbling like it's real lean and won't idle... I got to thinking about it and think I know what the problem is... When I installed the big O-ring in the pickup tube, I think I pushed it too far in the pickup tube so the O-ring partially blocks the jets... Not...

That's super cool that you had the foresight years ago to start documenting parts and xref PNs. Yes, I'm old school too and would rather replace what needs replacement instead of throw away and buy new assy. Thanks again for your help and responses. I greatly appreciate it! What part of the...

Congratulations on reaching the 'golden years'; I turned 65 last year and seem to be busier now than before, lol! That is great that you can look up parts and cross reference PNs! Do you have a subscription to have access to better diagrams and part numbers lookup and x-references?

I haven't been to the Kawa dealer in many years because their prices usually were outrageous... So far I've had good luck with JD having most parts in stock They have this part in stock so I ordered and should be able to pickup on Monday 🤗 So your last screen shot shows the equivalent part...

Well in my head I thought I did 😀. I guess there's not a JD number? I hate paying shipping, but... Anyway, I'm going to order the kit (54832) that Forest#2 provided. It is only $7, plus $6 shipping. I got a couple other items so I feel better about shipping... I will update all when I...

I picked up my parts today and have good and bad news. The bowl o-ring is correct, but the M153076 o-ring IS for the tiny jets. I got 2 of them so I'll use a new o-ring on the jet that fell out. However, I still need the large O-ring that holds the jets in and seals the bowl. Would anyone know...

Thank you so much for those excellent vids. Now I wished I had waited and bought this entire kit. It even has the jet o-rings, but... I didn't make it to JD to pickup my parts today. Hopefully I'll get those tomorrow and get it back together. I just checked out Sawzillaparts and I'm definitely...

Thank you for the detailed info. I just ordered both o-rings from JD. They show I should be able to pickup at the local dealer in a couple of hours. Hopefully that is the case... Thanks again!

So if I go to JD and buy M153076 o-ring, I should be able to push my jet back in the correct spot of the pickup tube, then push my larger new o-ring up inside the pickup tube so it will hold the jets in place, and put the bowl back on? The o-ring shows to be in stock locally, so that will be...

MN: 407677 0258 E1 The last time the mower ran great and the next time I started it, the mower ran bad like it was starving for fuel. I pulled the float bowl and found one of the two jets from the pickup tube in the bottom of the bowl along with the O-ring that seals between the float bowl...

The silver part (in my pic) only pivots around the top carriage clamp bolt. It goes through a round hole on the orange part in my pic above. The bottom carriage clamp bolt goes through the 'slotted hole'. In your pic, notice the lower hole is slotted. So when the #75 bolt is screwed into the...

Thank you! I couldn't find a diagram showing the bolt... The adjuster bolt is #75 in your pic and no 'foot' on the end of the bolt, so I guess it's supposed to walk a little... Thanks again!

Thanks, good idea! Looking at it more closely, the orange frame has a slot in the lower hole part so the silver bracket pivots on the top bolt hole when the bolt is screwed into the deck. Maybe it's supposed to walk???

Hi, I've got an old Scag STC48V-19KA1, SN:6700070. I'm trying to level the cutter deck, but the adjustment bolt is walking on me. I am unable to find a parts breakdown for this particular SN to know if there is some sort of small flat adapter piece that goes on the end of the round bolt to...

It is a V-Twin. So does this mean the oil filter will be helpful? Thanks for posting my engine number in the proper format. Thanks all!

That makes sense! More of a 'feel good' look. And damn, I just paid and ordered the JD part for less than $5... It's a nice nipple with a hex shape on the inside to install it... When I remove the cover, is it possible to see if there is a pump or impeller? Thanks!

Does anyone know if the nipple size that screws into the engine is a standard size pipe threads or is it 'special' so it cost $10 for a < $2 part? I don't mind buying it, but for $10 I'd like a kiss too, lol! TIA!

Update: I replaced the belt and that seems to have fixed my problem with losing the belt when I disengage the PTO. To get the belt on between the idler pulleys and belt guard, I bent the one guard outward that's pulley doesn't pivet, then loosened the other pulley so I could get the belt...

Update: I put the tensioner pulley in the correct hole making the belt tension tighter, along with a new quality belt. That seems to have fixed my problem with losing the belt when I disengage the PTO. I do idle the motor down before disengaging the PTO. I'm sure I'll forget one of these times...

The belt guards are items 15 & 58 in the drawing above.

Latest update: I got the new plate, but still had a little wobble, so I put a flat washer in where the plate pivots to take up the slack. I replaced the nut that holds that assy together with a lock nut tightened just enough to get the wobble out of the plate and still pivot freely. When the...

My frame was in the way for even a socket on my machine, but grinding/tweaking the 15/16" crowfoot worked real well for me... The pipe with the elbow and plug seems like a more robust solution.

I changed the oil recently in my newly acquired mower and I was able to unscrew that entire quick change assy. Not at all good! I cleaned it up, put Teflon tape on the threads, an aluminum washer that typically goes on oil drain plugs, and screwed it back in. That's when I discovered I...

I took the PTO belt tensioner assy apart and looked at it closer. On the main plate (62) there is significant wear at the pivot point so I'm going to get a new one. Items 22 are thick washers. I only have one and used 2 thinner washers before for the missing thick washer? Is there something...

I did have the belt on the correct side of the belt keepers, but good thought. I've done some stupid stuff lately... :( I'm hoping that possibly the return spring #48 missing caused the belt to engage enough to cause the slipping/burning problem. The only other thing I see is the play in the...

Well I haven't been able to find my #@!* return spring, so I ordered another one. :( The idler pulley bracket that tightens the PTO belt is loose enough where the entire bracket with pulley will move up and down a good quarter of an inch. Should it have that much play? Maybe that's an issue...

Sorry about that. The #s of the mower are: MN: 13AQ617H118 SN: 1A233H20280 S/N It looks like apparently some mowers did have both flat idlers. The other screw up I noticed is that I forgot to put the PTO return spring on it when I started the mower. Maybe that is my problem???? Thank you!