Search results

I am a retired Canadian liscened Mechanic. I have a shop in the south of Mexico and repair light construction equpment (Power trowels and the like) and PWC's. I recently had one of my good customers bring his Husqvarna lawn tractor with a K46 to me. (Not many here) Tuff Torq/OrderTree/Gardner is...

OK; so now we know that the starter will turn the motor. The Next test is for the solenoid. Take a 12 volt source (wire), leaving the negative as attached (to the frame), and touch it to the "Small" positive terminal on the solenoid; you should hear the "click" and the starter should turn. If...

Does your "new" starter solenoid look like this? The two small terminals on these are interchangeable. One is "Black" to ground, and the other takes it's 12 volts from the Key switch when it is turned to "Start". It doesn't matter as long as both are connected.Some other types take the ground...

OK; so now we know that the starter will turn the motor. The Next test is for the solenoid. Take that 12 volt source from the previous test, leaving the negative as attached, and touch it to the "Small" positive terminal on the solenoid; you should hear the "click" and the starter should turn...

If you "Short Across" both terminals 12 volts goes directly to the starter. Have you done this? does the starter turn the engine over??? I haven't seen anywhere whether the starter actually works or not. If you put 12 volts directly to the positive post on the starter, and the negative from the...

Does "Not Cranking" Mean the engine doesn't turn over with the Key turned to the "Start" position? Have you tried shorting across the two (large) solenoid terminals? What voltage is at the "small" solenoid terminal when you turn the key to the "start" position?

So, it's the smaller connector that comes from the Chassis Harness? Does this black have a large "lump" just before it enters the connector on the engine side? If it does that is a Diode. Do you have a pic?

You will have to remove the top plastic cover on the motor. At the flywheel you will see the coil, and underneath it a small "tab" This is where that black wire attaches.

Connects to the coil terminal

I purchased seals etc for the peerless on a Murray lately. They are still alive.

Good luck with finding the correct Wiring schematic! If you are referring the the BLACK at the motor connector; it goes to the terminal on the coil for the "Engine Stop Circuit". The Murray I have been working on has been a real PITA! I finally made my own wiring diagram

Well; now here is a development. I re-tested everything with the same results. All the (lawn Tractor) wiring schematics I've looked at are pretty useless in my opinion. I am used to looking at YAMAHA and others like the sample. Has anyone considered the "Blocking Diodes" in the wiring as shown...

Thanx; Still working great, no loose bolts nor leaks

Sounds like the Brake disk is corroded and siezed to the pads. I had this recently on a Murray.

Amen!

I had this happen a few years ago that did crack the block. I Tig welded the crack and reinstalled the cover plate as attached shows. Torqued to spec and used blue loctite.

Maybe you should take it back to the folks who installed the ignition Module. Maybe it failed (?) They (I hope) will stand behind their work. Unfortunately in most cases electrical parts aren't warranted. Was it an OEM Piece?

Yup; Locked down. How could I ever find out I also tried it with the Brake off (Nothing) and Brake on/Blade off; Nothing. My latest thought is the seat harness connector "Shorting plate". I want to confirm that when the Interlock is attached to the Harness and when the interlock is compressed...

Well; here is the latest! The motor cranks and fires whether the seat Interlock switch is compressed or not; or disconnected from the harness! It does the same with the operable Husvarna switch too. I will check out Dan Sullivan; Thanx.

Thank you: The fuse is "normally firm" entering the holder. The latest is that the engine cranks and fires the spark plug whether the seat switch is compressed or not! Yes the engine and everything else is super clean.

Thanx again! I am certainly not celebrating yet. There still is the issue (in the wiring) that I haven't found. As you have seen from my testing report; where I get about 8.5 volts on the "S" terminal whether it is the Murray or Husqvarna ignition switch (Installed on the Murray) with either...

Well Here I am again. The good news is that the key switch will turn over the motor. I have no idea why! I will start putting things back tomorrow and see how it goes. Thank you so very much for your input; it really has helped my thought process. This became so frustrating for me. Please note...

The issue that I have is outlined in my testing documents. I get good voltage at the B (red) terminal and battery connection to the solenoid; but only 8.5 at the white (S) terminal. I will check this again when I try your suggestion.

Here is a report of the testing I have done. I will try to include all 3 documents. I will convert the other from word.

Thanx again: I will try that this afternoon. I have tried a wire from the battery to the solenoid (White terminal) and the engine cranks. The Husqvarna switch has the same part number; I am used to this as parts usually aren't available here, so I have to be very careful. When I have a repair I...

Yes that is the way I have read the diagrams too. I have been doing my testing with both the Brake/Clutch and the Blade Interlocks closed. The white pins on each (tested at the conductor side) Have continuity to each other when closed and the green at the seat interlock (closed) has continuity...

I'll let you know how it goes. This is how the Murray is wired.

Thanx: I already have it. What do you think of my latest idea?

You folks have given me a thought. Given the Murray switch/solenoid combination tests and works fine on the Husqvarna; It must be something in the Murray wiring (positive, and ground) to the switch. I am thinking that I will disconnect the switch from the harness and connect seperate positive...

Thank you: The battery in the Murray is under the seat with the negative attached to the upright part of the frame there. I have also tried connecting a ground wire directly to the solenoid with no effect. The ground to the ignition switch is fed from the "Cowl Harness" and attached to the frame...

Thanx again: I have the Harness Jackets removed. This Voltage thing at the switch (S) has me stumped; especially as both the Murray start switch and Solenoid work fine on the Husqvarna. The solenoid "Ground" (black wire) is alone. I will check where the headlight ground wire terminates. As it...

Hi: This is a new switch. I have even tested (OK) the start solenoid, and tried another from an operational (Husqvarna) tractor. Yes; the red (letter B) on the switch is 12V feeding the switch. The White (S) is to the Start solenoid (Power) terminal. Both "main" grounds are fine. When I run 12 V...

I think that I have watched every related video at least twice.

Thanx so much; I will check it again. Thinking about it; at one point I thought there might not be enough amperage there.

Do you have a Electrical Schematic for a Murray OEM: Murray TYPE: Lawn Tractor MODEL: 42L18G60X8A SERIES: 080310001196

Yes: and the 4 terminal seat switch has continuity (when connected and pressed down) has continuity between the Green and Grey conductors. All the others seem to test Ok. The thing that baffles me is that when the (new) ignition swich is turned to "Start" (white) there is 12 v yet it doesn't...

My Sympathys: I have been trying to figure out why the (white) "trigger" connector has 12 v when the key is turned to start, however won't activate the solenoid. When I connect the (white) terminal on the solenoid to a 12 v battery terminal it works!

My Sympathys: I have been trying to figure out why the (white) "trigger" connector has 12 v when the key is turned to Start yet it won't activate the start solenoid (tested OK). When I connect a wire to the "white" terminal on the solenoid direct from the battery (+) it works! I have tested...

I have a 2010 Murray MODEL: 42L18G60X8A SERIES: 080310001196 that electrically is driving me crazy. Issue: Although the starter solenoid tests that it is operational, it does not function with the key switch (new). The white wire has voltage when the key is turned to “start”, and the black has...

I agree with most of what you are saying; except; Who would ever guess that these cover bolts would come loose? It would be fine if there was a "Crystal ball" that we could look at to tell us. I guess I must be one of those "dull" people, even 'tho I have had a Canadian Mechanics liscence for...