Search results

Synthetic is about the only thing you can find anymore. With the latest specs the oil pretty much has to be at least a synthetic blend to meet them. I buy my oil from Walmart too, but it’s synthetic and it’s not terribly expensive either. You also want to focus on an oil that is good at...

I agree in spirit, but I believe in sticking to what the manufacturer calls for and many of them call for an API certified oil just like your car does. My challenge with Amsoil (and Redline and HPL, etc) isn’t that their stuff isn’t good or better than spec but it’s that they frequently don’t...

I think the idea is that Amazon's customer density is high enough that 100's of miles per day isn't required. I like electric stuff just fine but what I don't like is being forced into something. I drove a Tesla Model Y performance and was genuinely impressed with the tech and the performance...

Very nice, though I’m still cursing you every time I use mine now - it’s for sure louder than my HRX. I never noticed that until you pointed it out. :)

Is it possible you over tightened the bolt with the nylon washer that attaches to the governor arm? Maybe spray some teflon lube on it?

That's crazy on parts prices. I know even the HRR prices have gone up though. Last time I bought a transmission it was about $40 and now it looks like it's up to $70 for the HRR. At least there is a parts catalog and parts are available.... I guess?

Maybe look at the bearings on the roto-stop system. I've had them go bad before and maybe if one was going very bad it could cause some issues when idling.

Sounds like the cable may not be hooked up properly. Perhaps post pictures and maybe someone can figure out what's wrong from there?

I hadn't noticed those differences myself. Be glad though you didn't go HRX because it's for sure about 10 inches longer than the HRN - I park mine facing into the wall next to each other and the HRX sticks out a lot further. I do think the HRX is a touch quieter, I assumed it was probably due...

No, they stopped manufacturing new ones in fall of 2023 for the US market. Something about regulations, profit margins, and electric mowers gaining popularity. Apparently they make a ton more money on side by side ATV's than they do $500 lawn mowers - go figure. What you see now are the "left...

Any chance it was simply tipped over towards the carb? That will cause oil to go towards the filter through the crankcase vent. Otherwise maybe excessive blow by on the rings.

Yep, I hear you. Parts prices have gone up too. Last time i bought a transmission for the HRR it was about $40. Now they are $70. Ugh.

Have you ever replaced the rear wheels? Is it possible there is too much play in them allowing too much camber and interference with the pinions? Just throwing out ideas since you mentioned camber. You may also want to look for witness marks on the plastic wheel or anywhere else. That much drag...

I’m not sure on the HRN for you. It doesn’t use the same design, but looking at the maintenance manual it still has pinion gears that are actually more complicated - that’s how they get the bushings and driveshaft out of the equation when pulling backwards. Ive never had wear issues with the...

Awesome! Hope you’re enjoying the HRN as much as I do!

Oh the M240i with a manual is crazy sweet! Love those and love BMWs in general. I’ve got an older 3 with a manual myself. To be honest I didn’t think I’d like the Tesla until I tried it. The tech and performance per $$ is hard to beat and really impressive. That HRR will probably run forever.

I'm not sold on the electric mowers - but screwed up and drove a Tesla Model Y Performance and OMG that thing is STUPID fast. Like unbelievable and NOTICEABLY faster than the twin turbo V8 BMW X5 I drove a few weeks prior. I was totally sold. My wife however veto'd it for the silly minimalist...

Very glad to hear the oilite bushings are working well for ya! I think those are by far the best solution for the HRR and hope anyone reading this goes with that direction rather than the roller bearings I used initially. Yep! That's exactly what I bought and it has the total redesign of the...

Yeah I hope they did get enough for a few years... but I suspect this is going to be the last season where they are easy to find new. Such a shame as I really think they got it right these days.

The HRX has more power and I think runs a bit smoother - it's for sure more "premium". With that said, the HRX uses the older bushing design just with the extra seal so ultimately it <could> be prone to having the pull back issue. The Hydro transmission on the HRX217HYA is also for sure nice. My...

Oh also option 3... which I'd be really tempted to do. Just cut / remove that small piece and not worry about it.

You can try asking Honda though typically from what I've heard they claim "abuse" and don't replace the deck. Can't hurt to ask though. This is my biggest worry with my HRX and part of why I picked up a HRN too - what happens if they discontinue making decks and I need one. 1) You can replace...

Just an update. I saw that this spring Honda put some HRN216's on the shelves at Home Depot. These are the ones they pulled from the shelves last year for the cam shaft recall and have a green dot on them indicating the recall has been performed. I believe these are the absolute last of the...

There is a national stop sale on all Honda HRN and HRX mowers. Apparently Honda got a bad batch of cam shafts that was causing the decompression not to work after a few uses making starting them difficult to impossible. Supposedly they will be back soon. It was a supplier issuer. Also as an...

Yep, ours has VCM. Not a fan at all. Thankfully there is a disabler now.

Yeah Sounds like you had the HRX which doesn’t suffer from this problem nearly as bad as these HRR mowers. The HRX states to clean and grease every 2 years and your shop SHOULD have done that. The real issue is that unlike the HRX, Honda failed to put any dust protection on the wheel side of...

No apparently they are just exiting the business entirely. They are repurposing the NC plant for Side by sides or something.

Honda announced they are discontinuing lawn mowers next September. I told my mom to hang on to my old one. I’m not sure I could do the Toro personal pace and don’t know of any other decent brands out there. Almost tempted to buy a spare Honda before they go away. Loving my HRX as I get more used...

More difficult to pull backwards is fairly normal. Wheels locking up and tearing up the yard when pulling backwards is not. You are correct that it’s a design flaw.

I fought the bushings forever on my HRR216, stock it’d never go more than a few mows without locking up pulling backwards. I’m to report my HRX217 does NOT have this problem. I think the difference is the extra seal.

Sounds like a blade brake issue. I’ve seen the little brake pad come off and do this on another brand before. I believe they usually brake the flywheel.

I’ve noticed this with my HRX. My HRR216 with the GVC160 was always one pull but the HRX trends towards two pulls. I do run the carb out of fuel after every mow and noticed last time that turning the fuel back to on a few minutes (rather than seconds) before start allowed me a one pull start...

Im with you and I must say the HRX with the hydro drive seems way smoother and no issues pulling backwards. The HRN is supposed to have fixes too. If you’re willing to give it one last shot, you can try adding the dust seals to the wheel side of the adjuster. A lot of folks here are reporting...

Why not just pull the rope? Hondas usually start pretty easy.

Typically it attaches to a cable which tilts the transmission and engages the belt. The transmission has a spring which pulls the cable back. Also your cable maybe rusted internally and not moving freely. You may need to Lube or replace it.

No problem at all. I wasn’t suggesting a new mower as the fix, just that I’ve been down this road a lot. The extra dust seal and new bushings ( since yours have probably been damaged already ) should be realy all you need. I was just sick of messing with mine, especially since on mine I was...

Its dust in the adjusters. It comes in around the wheel side and gear housing. The design is flawed. Clean them out again and glue / epoxy additional rubber dust seals to the wheel side too of the adjuster. You can also upgrade the bushings from plastic to oilite bronze. Do not use needle...

Thank you. The smart $$$ choice would probably be to just to have bought oil lite bearings but then I’d need another new transmission as the shaft wear is what caused the seal to come loose… and well I was just done. I knew it wasn’t right this morning when it stuck pulling backwards to go mow...

Have you checked the auto choke? Some bogging when cold is somewhat normal. Once warmed up the choke should open automatically and it shouldn’t happen.

Nah. I would have but my local Ace was sold out of all the HRN models and I really wanted the vya with the blade clutch so I can idle the engine after mowing to empty the carb while I run the blower. The vya specifically is somewhat hard to find. My Ace had the hrx with hydro trans and blade...

Alright guys. Well… I’m out. Freaking dust seal came off on mine and I’m 100% over messing with it. Picked up a shiny new hrx217hya this afternoon.

I truly wonder if more is spilled because of changes or because the oil sludged up and sent a rod through the block.

I’d clean the bushings where the drive shaft comes through first… The belts last a really long time normally… the bushings not so much.

No, but you clearly missed the point. I was simply pointing out there can be advantages but my conclusion was essentially the same as yours - A WASTE OF MONEY AND NOT WORTH IT IN A MOWER. Hopefully that's clear enough.

Heh I'll start with "You were right". With that said at this point I don't care. I'm going to see how long I can run it without pumping money into it. If I feel especially generous I'll just buy a new trans and bushings and go oilite... but really this mower is 10 years old now and it's...

Redundancy - mag failures (points wear, etc) and lead fouled spark plugs are fairly common. Both sets are fully tested and functional before flight.

Wow that's surprising. I wonder if someone got a batch of the fake NGK's from Amazon / eBay.

Also check the pinion gears in the rear wheels. If the ratcheting key isn't moving then it won't go anywhere either.

Nice! I think your setup is probably the best known at the moment. Thank you for sharing it and your results!

I'd say iridium are for sure "better" technically and they will last longer assuming you have no negative factors affecting the plugs like overheating or fouling. With that said - will you EVER realize any real benefits to justify the costs? Probably not. Our airplane has a 5.9 liter 6 cylinder...