Husqvarna 125B gas blower

To eliminate any fuel - related issues, spray some carb cleaner in the carb and try to start it. If it starts, spray a bit more to keep it running for a few seconds, If it runs, it's likely fuel - related.
 
logan01 said:
To eliminate any fuel - related issues, spray some carb cleaner in the carb and try to start it. If it starts, spray a bit more to keep it running for a few seconds, If it runs, it's likely fuel - related.
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Just tried what you suggested and still would not start. I think there is a pressure/vacuum issue. Going to test that next. Other than that, I don't see why it won't engage. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Rats. I do remove them on my 2-stroke devices. On a 2 - stroke small engine, there should be a port from the engine (piston) running through the manifold gasket to the carb to "pulse" the diaphragm. So anywhere along that route. Check for any vacuum leaks at the manifold and gasket, where the 2 halves of the engine join each other. Also, a punctured / cracked fuel line.
 
you said you tried new fuel. Did you drain the tank, and the carb, then try new fuel? If there is old fuel in the bowl, new fuel in the tank doesn't help a lot.
 
logan01 said:
To eliminate any fuel - related issues, spray some carb cleaner in the carb and try to start it. If it starts, spray a bit more to keep it running for a few seconds, If it runs, it's likely fuel - related.
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You do not want to use carburetor spray to start a 2-stroke engine. Use a little premix fuel squirted into the carburetor or spark plug hole. You can wash down the piston, rings, and cylinder and score them potentially. Remember, there is not oil in the engine, the oil is mixed with the fuel.
 
uigradz8900 said:
I am definitely a novice when it comes to this sort of task, but I am a very quick study and YouTube certified on many things 😁. I do not give up easily when I commit to something. I tried newer fuel. It sputtered a bit like it wanted to start, but still have not got there yet. Did another complete breakdown just to see if there was anything I may have done wrong and didn't see anything. Definitely have a spark when I tested it. Did another compression check this morning and still reads low (60psi). I understand that I am using an automotive style compression tester and it could be giving a false reading because of lower displacement volume from the blower and I also know that the new piston ring needs a short break-in period to completely seal against the cylinder wall. The timing cannot be manually adjusted since it utilizes a fixed ignition module keyed directly to the crankshaft. I know that with new crankcase gasket and shaft seals, it's not a guarantee of a perfect seal being aftermarket parts, but I'm hoping they are working as intended. Next, I will be playing with carburetor adjustments to see if I get a positive reaction. Wish me luck.
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Quick study doesn't offset experience. IE book learning and actual hands are two different things. These things can throw you a lot curve balls. They may look simple but everything got to near perfect in order to work unlike a four stroke. It took me well over two years to get good at these repairs [self taught].

With a correctly setup compression gauge you should be getting nearly 140 psi with new components. Unless the aftermarket parts are defective or mis-matched.

I should had took of images of what that new Poulan NCC cylinder looked like. You would have swore it was trashed. Also in that case the cylinder and piston had to be a matched set. IE the NCC piston can't be use in a NCC cylinder [too tight] and the None NCC Piston can't be used in a none NCC cylinder [too loose].

Two key things on compression gauges. One is the placement of the check valve which needs to be at the end of the hose at the cylinder for it to open properly as you have to compress the entire hose otherwise before the valve will open. Second the valve needs to be a weaker version. Some older gauges this check valve spring is simply too strong. Now depending the hose length even on a properly setup gauge it will take multiple pulls until the needle no long climbs.

NCC = Nickel Ceramic Coated
 
sgkent said:
just remember - three things to run - fuel/air, spark/timing, and compression. One is missing.

If it isn't bad fuel, can you tell us regarding the parts you bought - was the carb OEM or was it aftermarket?
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All parts for the tune-up were aftermarket (Amazon). I usually have decent luck with these parts, but still, you never know.
 
StarTech said:
It takes a lot of time for the inexperienced 2 cycle repair person to learn to basics about them. The OP has so far did the common things most would try. At least he is working a Husqvarna and not a Stihl. A PNC for Stihl chainsaw can cost as much as a new saw.

And OP has done what most would find very challenging and that the disassembly and re-assembly of the whole blower. Many tech simply give up on the challenge.

The compression does needs to checked even with a new PNC. Flywheel timing needs to check especially the flywheel built-in key. Pressure and vacuum the crankcase to make it is sealed. When the flywheel is installed to needs to torqued to 18.5 to 25.8 ft-lbs to prevent key shearing.

In the beginning it would had been wise to see if it would even hit on induced fuel, Checked the compression (noting that it must be at 100 psi or more for it to even hit) and then pull the muffler to check the exhaust side of the piston for scoring. Now I have seen a couple that had great compression that would not even hit due to upper cylinder damage causing a loss of compression at the last split second.

Also note that spark plugs can spark outside the compression zone but fail under compression load. This when if you are unsure of a plug, you try a known good. New don't necessary means good. I have bad ones right of the box.

When I first started repairing 2 cycle handhelds there was a very steep learning curve as I had no technical support at all. I didn't even have a repair manual, just the IPLs. It would take all day to just figure out what was wrong with one unit. At least I had a whole pickup load of none working ones to learn on. It very pissed off my brother when I did get them repaired and sold 3/4 of them when he just gave them to me for scrape. I tried teaching him what I learned but he refused to listen to experience.

Now it takes me under 30 minutes for most diagnostics now. Repairs can take a little longer depending on what is wrong.

And Tiger you might need learn a little patience by playing Sudoku the easy games are easy but the middle games that takes me up to 20 minutes to figure now. Some versions are harder than others like the one NBC news site. A few their are actually unsolvable. But they are great teachers problem solving patience. From there its problem solving can applied to other things just in a different way. I yet to get the Hex decimal version solved but I do fairly well the 9 x 9 versions.

Of course it doesn't hurt to visualize things in your mind (thinking things thru before actual trying on hands approach). Its like the Husqvarna YTH24V54 with the brake jammed in full depressed position I got in yesterday. I had to study how the system was setup and visualize how all the brake/clutch pedal system was put together. It turned out to the cruise control that jammed the pedal down. It took me about 20 minutes to un-jam things once I figured out the cause. Never seen this setup before this time. Sleeping on the problem I think I see what cause the problem so I go out Monday check Unduh APK Hijau my middle of the night diagnosis.
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How to do to get the Hex decimal version solved but I do fairly well the 9 x 9 versions?
 
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